Tools: August 2012 Archives
I run a mobile library out of the back of my car.
The book list is ever revolving and there always seems to be at least 10 books
back there at a given time. My little one loves books and if I need to run
errands, I need to have a constant supply. I designed this Back Seat Car
Organizer to fit her mobile library but it can easily be used for art supplies,
toys, diapering needs (for the babies) or whatever your child needs to get
through a trip out and about. My organizer slips onto the back of a car seat
and features 3 pockets, 2 big and 1 small. While looking for a great place to
take pictures I discovered that this organizer is perfect for other locations
in the house that need a space to store kid supplies. You can hang it on your stairs
for the "you need to take this stuff upstairs" stuff, hang it from a coat hook
for school supplies in the mud room or mount it by bunk beds for books or in a
closet for hair and toiletries. The ideas are endless as long as you have a
need. The finished Back Seat Car Organizer is 21'' h by 13.5'' w.
To make your own you will need:
1 yd of heavy canvas
fabric for lining
1 yd of quilting cotton
if making all pockets the same or
¼
yd for small pocket
¼
yd for medium pocket
½
yd for large pocket
Plus approx. 2 yd of 2.5'' bias trim for edging and
strap
2 snaps
Instructions (all seams are ½'' unless stated otherwise):
From canvas cut:
Two
21''x13.5'' pieces for body
One
17''x13.5'' for large pocket
One
12''x13.5'' for medium pocket
One
6''x'13.5'' for small pocket
From Quilting Cotton cut (sub in various prints if
you want a different print for each pocket)
One 17''x13.5'' for large pocket
One
12''x13.5'' for medium pocket
One
6''x'13.5'' for small pocket
With RS together, pin all pocket pieces together and
stitch across the top (one of the 13.5'' sides). Press seam open then press WS
together and pin 3 open sides together for all pockets. Topstitch across the top, finished edge.
Baste 2 body canvas pieces together. Pin Large
Pocket in place, lining up bottom and side raw edges. On each side, mark 10''
down from top. Starting at top finished edge,
stitch down one side, pivoting at the 10'' mark, stitching across to 2nd
10'' mark and back up to the top, back stitch at both ends. This shortens the pocket so it isn't a deep cavern that will eat your books.
Pin medium and small pockets in place, matching
bottom and sides and baste in place. Square up everything with a ruler and a
rotary cutter now if you want.
Apply bias trim, starting at the center bottom and
working your way around the entire edge of the organizer.
To make your snap straps, you can either serge your
straps like me or stitch up 15'' of your remaining double folded bias trim. Cut
your strap into 2 pieces, one 7'' and one 8''. Double fold ½'' at one end of the 8'' strap and
apply the female snap according to your package instructions (check out my post
on snaps here for extra help). The snap will hold the double fold in place so
you don't need to sew it first. Repeat for second strap with male snap and
place a second male snap 1'' down from the first. Pin your snap straps 2.5'' in
from each side on top of the organizer and stitch in place twice for extra
durability.
Enjoy your new Back Seat Car Organizer. I have
another on my cutting table already for baby #2. It will initially be used for
wipes, pacifiers, bibs, diapers and burp cloths and hopefully evolve to books as
well from there!
One of the first tools you will learn to use as a
knitter is the stitch
marker. They come in many shapes, sizes, colors and designs. You can
purchase them inexpensively, have them custom made or make them yourself. In
the course of your knitting career you will use many different kinds of stitch
markers depending on your yarn and needle size (Remember my mohair blog post,
I recommend not using jump ring based stitch markers). Fortunately all stitch
markers will work the same when it comes to using them in your knitted
projects. There are basic uses and creative uses as well as desperate uses. I
will cover all the basic uses and attempt to cover all the creative uses. As
far as the desperate uses, I can simply recommend that you carry plenty in your
notions bag. To move a stitch marker as you knit simply slip it as you would a
stitch; don't work it just slip it (pass it from your left needle to your
right).
Basic uses of Stitch Markers:
The most common and basic uses of stitch
markers are to mark your stitches so you do not have to count every row or
count to where your pattern changes every time. If you are knitting in the
round you will place a marker between the last stitch of the previous round and
the first stitch of the new round so you will know when a round has been worked and you can count how many you have worked. You can also use it to highlight
where a pattern change is occurring such as a sleeve increase, bodice decrease
or cable pattern. Place the marker at the beginning of this change and at the
end so you will know where to work your changes and when to stop. This helps so
you don't have to count over to a certain spot on every row. You can just work
to the marker then work the change to the next marker and then continue on your
way.
Markers can also help you count rows. I love to use
them when working cables. With cable you must work the twist after a certain
number of rows. With the stitch
marker I count the number of rows from the marker up and then move the
marker up when I work the next twist. The twist of cables can skew the rows a
bit making it difficult to determine which row the twist was worked on and then
throwing off the size of your cable. Using the stitch marker eliminates the
guess work. You can also use them when you begin a decrease or increase and
then count the rows since the marker instead of searching your project for
signs of the beginning of the increase/decrease.
Creative uses of Stitch Markers:
I have been known on occasion to use my stitch
markers to hold dropped stitches in check until I can repair them with my
crochet hook. The stitch marker keeps the stitch from unraveling more and holds
it in place if I don't have time to address it at present. I can also use my
stitch markers to plan changes in my project before actually making the
changes. If I am working on a sweater and I want to insert a dart or
increase/decrease for shaping, I can slip in some stitch markers where I think
the change should be made and then I can step back and determine any pattern
disruptions, determine how the placement will look or try it on to see if the
placement sits on my frame where I anticipated that it would. Also, when
finishing a hat and I have gotten to the last few stitches and just need to
weave in the tail and pull it tight, if I find myself without a tapestry needle
I will slip the stitches to a stitch marker until I find a needle to finish.
My last and most creative use of a stitch marker is
as a sock monkey earring for this great Sock Monkey Hat!
I love to decorate for Halloween but I dislike the appearance of many decorations during the day though they are amazing at night. I try to incorporate as many spectacles as possible that look great day and night. That is one reason I made these Halloween Votive Luminaries. They look super spooky at night when they are all lit up and just as festive during the day when the vinyl covered cotton print is the star. These vinyl luminaries are easy to make so you can whip up a dozen to line your sidewalk, sit in your windows or as a centerpiece for a party. You can make them for other holidays or any day just by your fabric choices. Try a Christmas print for a holiday open house. A solid in your little one's favorite color with his/her name cut out would be perfect for a birthday decoration. You can also try some burlap with ribbon trim to add some bohemian charm to a brunch. The vinyl covering makes it easier to cut out designs and adds stability so your luminaries will last well past the special occasion.
To make your own Halloween Luminary you will need:
Approx ¼ yd of fabric for 1 luminary (Check out our Halloween Quilting Cotton section)
Approx ¼ yd of Heat n Bond Vinyl
A votive holder or pint size mason jar (like I used)
Tea light or flameless small candle or LED light
Instructions:
Measure around the widest part of your votive and add 1'' for seam allowance for the width and make it about 4-5 taller than your votive. I cut my fabric to 12'' wide by 10'' tall to fit around my pint size mason jar.
Apply the vinyl to the RS of your fabric according to the directions. Use your paper back to draw your luminaries design and then cut it out using scissors or craft knife. Fold over the top and bottom ½'' and top stitch in place. This is not necessary to prevent fraying but does add stability to your luminaries. With RS together stitch up your 2 short sides to make a tube. Carefully turn your tube RS out and smooth out the vinyl covered cotton. Slip it over your votive, add a candle and enjoy your Halloween decoration in the day time or night.
You can even try using your paper punches for this project to create a lace effect or add polka dots all over with a hole punch. These luminaries are fast and fun and store flat as a bonus!
***If you want to use poly fabrics instead of cottons, make sure your use a press cloth when applying the vinyl and also use a flameless or LED light instead of a real candle.
To solve this I put an old strapless bra on my dress form and adjusted the dial to fit my under bust then I added pads to the bra until the bust matched my own. I reused some pads I had from other bras but you could use shoulder pads, old towels or thick blankets cut to size for hips, rump or stomach. 
Starting pinning your knit to the sides of your dressform. Pull the knit taunt but not as tight as it will go. You want the cover fitted but still able to be pulled on and off. Pin often as this will be your sewing guide to sew your seams.
Trim the seams to about 1-2''. This will make it easier to sew without all the extra fabric. Slowly ease the cover off your dressform and sew using the pins as your seam guides, leaving the top of the neck and bottom open. serge the edges or sew with a zigzag stitch.
Finally turn your cover RS out and slip over your dress form, making sure none of your pads shift. But if they do, you can just slip your hand up there after the cover is in place and adjust. Confirm the placement of all pads with your tape measure. Tie off your top with a ribbon for the top and a rubber band for the bottom. 
