Tara Miller: April 2012 Archives

I had the pleasure of getting a head start on Fabric.com's newest Free Pattern Download by Create Kids Couture: Hannah's Pillowcase Bubble Romper. Seeing this pattern brought back memories for me. My mom told me that I used to run around in these rompers when I was my daughter's age. Though I remember that all of mine featured the classic 1980's rainbow and terry cloth, I loved them anyway because as a busy kid I was able to get dressed with one article of clothing. I am glad to be able to pass this onto my daughter. This pattern was quick and fun! I did make a few adjustments for my little one and since she has been wearing it I have a few more. I will share all.

First I did not make the belt, either one. The reason for this was two fold: 1) I didn't think my daughter would tolerate it and 2) I have a limited wiggle-free time to dress her so I decided the time was better spent with socks, shoes or pony tails instead of belts (though I think both belts are adorable).

Next, I chopped off the top part of the romper right below the arm holes and stitched on a coordinating fabric (if you follow suit make sure you add in a sew allowance when cutting your coordinating piece). The bias trim matches the main romper fabric and I made the tie for the top out of my remaining bias trim, making it the same length as the thin tie. I also used the elastic at the legs since I don't have a serger. But if you want to shirr, you could add 3/4 in. to the legs when cutting, fold up ¼ in. press, fold up ½ in. press and then shirr the legs.

In the future (probably this weekend), I will pull out the ties and make straps. I recommend, folding down the front and back for the casing (before adding the bias on the arms) but adding elastic instead (I am going to use 5-6 in. for the size 3T. Then make the bias trim continue past the arm holes on the front and back to make straps that tie. This allows for younger kids to take off the romper by themselves and easily. The elastic still allows for the gathers but gives some room when pulling the romper down for potty stops and the straps mean little ones can pull it off and on by themselves without having to tie ties.

Finally, I want to add some rows of shirring onto the romper right at the waist. This will give a similar look to the belts but without the extra accessory. I am considering just two or three rows but we shall see how many I end up with. I just want to nip in the waist a bit since it so roomy.

I have to say that my little one looks so amazingly cute running around in her romper that I know more will be coming. It is perfect for hot days, playing in the sprinklers and running to the pool.

I used Moda prints for my romper and think my next will feature Moda Dottie!!

UPDATE:

The Create Kids Couture Hannah Pillowcase Bubble Romper is now available for download. And my pattern modifications discussed above are finished and ready for posting. I was too excited to wait for this weekend. First, I pulled out the one long shoulder tie and inserted 6 in. of 1/4 in. elastic into each casing (one for the front and one for the back) and stitched them in place. First I stitched up one end and then pulled the elastic through the other end and left a little hanging out so I could hold it tight while stitching and then trimmed it off so it was invisible (very similar to adding the shoulder elastic to the Oliver + S Class Picnic top. Then I cut 4 ties, 10 in. long and stitched them onto either side of each casing to make tie-able straps. The elastic plus strap making it easy for younger kids to pull the straps off and down for changing and potty breaks but doesn't ruin the styling of the gathers and ties. You can stitch your ties tied to prevent them being untied by curious hands. 

Finally, I added 3 rows of elastic shirring at the waist. I started 6 in. from the crotch seam but in hindsight I wish I had measured higher, maybe 8-10 in. from the crotch seam or halfway between the bottom of the armholes and the crotch seam. I followed the instructions for elastic shirring provided for the shirred belt. I added 3 rows of stitching 1/2 in. apart. The shirring worked great and looks super cute. My daughter loves this even more now that she can take it off herself and I love the elastic waist that helps the romper stay in place. Share with us your modifications on our Facebook page!

Obsession is a bit of an overstatement (just a bit) when it comes to my desire to try out our new Stretch Ruffle Knit Fabric. I loved it from first sight and once I had it in hand it was even more delicious! The small ruffles are just right; a slight shake here or shimmy there and the whole fabric dances. It would be perfect for turning any ordinary project into something wonderful! I set to work right away on a simple little dress for my little one. I envisioned something she could run around and play in but also wear out, should we be brave enough to take her "someplace nice",  and family pictures. What I ended up with was so much more.

Let me start by saying that there is a fair amount of stretch to this fabric which makes it ideal for kids clothing. While this dress looked so fancy on my daughter it did not feel fancy (to me fancy kids clothing= uncomfortable). She loved wearing it. I loved how RIDICULOUSLY easy it was to make.  The dress features 2 gores in the back for extra swing and extra running leg room plus 'Y' shaped straps that fasten in the back with Velcro. This makes adjusting for a tank top underneath or slipping on over a swimsuit simple. I have also found that should your child tend toward tantrums when it comes time to undress, just a quick swipe of the fingers and the dress is off!

To make your own follow below:

Materials

1 yd Stretch Ruffle Knit fabric

¼ yd of Quilting Cotton

6 in. of 3/4in. wide Velcro

Cut a rectangle that is 15-18 in. long (depending on how tall your child is or how long you want the dress. Mine was 18 in. for a 3yr old) by the width of her chest. Also cut 2 gores that are the same length as your rectangle but 1 in. wide at the top and 4 in. wide at the bottom.  Cut 25 in. of bias tape from the quilting cotton as well as two 4.5 in. by 8 in straps and one 4.5 in. by 6 in. strap.

Begin by joining the gores to each side of the rectangle, RS together and stitch in place using a zig zag stitch. Then join the 2 gores together making a tube. Stitch a basting stitch around the top of the tube and slightly gather the top of your dress since the added gores have made it wider than the chest measurement. Gather until your dress is back to the chest measurement. Pin your bias tape to the top of your dress (RS facing) and stitch in place using a zigzag stitch. Fold over your bias tape and stitch in place using a small zig zag stitch or longer straight stitch.

Fold one of your straps in half along its length and press, open up and fold each edge toward the center crease and press in place (you are folding it in quarters). Fold along the center crease and press again and pin along the open edge. Stitch the strap closed using a ¼ in. seam and then added more decorative stitching at ¼ in. intervals. Repeat for the remaining straps.

Cut your Velcro into two 2 in. length and pull apart. On one long strap pin and stitch one female Velcro piece, pin and stitch the male piece onto the other long strap. On the shorter strap, pin and stitch one female piece on one side and pin and stitch one male piece on the other side. Mark your long strap placement by trying the dress on your child or using another dress as a guide stitch in place using 2 lines of stitching. Center your short strap on the back gores and stitch in place using 2 lines of stitching to secure.

You're done. The Velcro not only makes for easy dressing and undressing but allows you to adjust the angle of the straps for maximum comfort. This dress makes a great swimsuit cover up or picnic play dress- if she spills ketchup on it no need to worry about how to keep it out of her hair as your pull the dress off, just release the straps and step out! 

I was inspired by this blog post I found on Pinterest of a recreation of a Banana Republic T-shirt with a braided neckline. I loved it however, both the recreation and the original were loose fitting in order to create the braided neckline. I didn't want a loose shirt, I have had enough. I wanted to create the braided neckline with a fitted or semi fitted Tee (Heck, any fit that you prefer). I also didn't like the ruching-gathering that was the natural bi-product of the recreation tutorial. So I decided to find a way of adding the braiding without the extras I didn't want. Here's how to do it.

First cut out your chosen t-shirt pattern but don't assemble. From the remaining fabric cut a 4 in wide strip that is 2.5 times the length you need your finished braid to be (Ex: for a 15 in. braid, I cut a 38 in. long strip). Layout your strip and cut a widthwise slit every 2 in. down the length leaving .5 in. on each side. 

Next, we start braiding. Start at the right end, take the top most loop (there are now 2 parts to this strip, the slits and the loops. The loops are the sections of fabric in between each slit) and pull it up a bit to create a void.

Take the second loop and pull it up though the void you just created and pull it back down again.

Now take the 3^rd loop and pull it up through the 2^nd and pull it back down. Continue in this pattern until you have used up all your loops.  

Secure each end with a quick little zig zag stitch. Make the braid a little longer than needed so the zig zag stitch will be hidden in each shoulder seam (you can always stretch it a bit if it is not quite long enough). 

Pull the braid a bit to shape the braid and pull all the loops into place. 

Pin the braid onto your neckline, overlapping the braid over the neck edge a bit and leaving the zig zag stitch hidden in the shoulder seam allowance. Stitch in place using a medium straight stitch worked down the middle of the braid. Next stitch another line about ¼ in. away from the center stitch line on the inside edge of the neckline (Not closest to the neck edge) tucking in the edges of the braid as you go. This final stitch line will keep the raw edges hidden and keep the braid from rolling to the wrong side of the t-shirt. Add some binding to the neck edge of the back t-shirt piece. 

Assemble your t-shirt according to your pattern.

Feel free to add more than one braided piece to your neckline or at the waist. You can experiment with the size of your loops by cutting slits every 1 in or 3 in. this will make your braid more delicate or chunkier depending on the look and where you are placing your braided trim. 

I used our Rayon Slub Jersey Knit Fabric. It is soft and has a night light drape. I recommend a jersey knit because the natural curl with hide any raw edges of the braid trim. 

April's Blog of the Month is Two On, Two off.  When I came across Dawn's blog I thought that she was funny and had a really great sense of style. I am amazed at all the garments that she has created. The fabric and pattern combinations are inspiring for the most jaded of sewers. If you are considering giving up garment sewing because you are bored or just aren't "feeling it" any more, check out Two on, Two off and you will be back in business in no time. It is hard not to itch for some apparel fabric and a few patterns once you read this blog. My favorite is her version of Butterick 5634 Ruffled Dress. I love this dress so much I am tempted to track this blog mistress down and steal it from her closet. Dawn is great at providing tons of well-done pictures and explains all the changes she did or didn't make to each pattern. Sometimes the piece is quick and easy and lovely, sometimes it is complicated but still lovely and each time she will let you know how it really broke down! She is honest, clever and humorous.

One of my favorite ways of changing up a basic pattern or putting a new twist on an old classic is to try knitting it on the bias. If you are new to bias knitting it is definitely different but not difficult and a lot of fun. The fundamental premise is that you cast on a small number of stitches (I go with 3-4 depending on if I need an even or odd number for a pattern) and then you increase at the beginning and end of each RS row (I increase after the first stitch and decrease before the last stitch to make the edges smooth) until you have the desired number of stitches. Once you have your correct number of stitches you will start maintaining by increasing at the beginning of each RS row and decreasing at the end of each RS row. Once you get used to this you can easily add this new technique to your Knitting in Public project, knitting in the car, and movie knitting (though probably not a truly riveting movie that distracts you too much). I love venturing in to bias knitting on some of my comfort projects (those you make time and again because you just enjoy it and it is easy).

Increases on Red side and decreases on Green side

You might remember that my Swing Scarf (Free Knitting Pattern Download) is knit on the bias in a simple lace stripe pattern. It is simple but by knitting it on the diagonal it adds an element of detail that not only makes it unique but the illusion of difficulty that will make your fellow knitters and friends sit up and take notice.

Increases (M1)

If you want to create a scarf like my sample, you will need a skein of worsted weight yarn. Cast on 4 sts and increase after the first stitch and before the last stitch. You can use your preferred increase and decrease but I used M1 (Make one) and SSK (slip1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped stitch over k1) until you reach 18 stitches. Start a 6 st Left Cable in the center 6 sts (Left cable: slip 3 sts onto cable needle hold in front, k3 sts, and k3 sts from cable needle). Continue until you have a total 28 sts and 2 cables going at any one time. They will drift to the left and disappear as you decrease at the end of each RS row and will appear as you increase at the beginning of each RS row. Keep a space of 6 sts between your cables. Continue until your scarf is almost as long you would like then begin decreasing at the beginning and the end of each RS row until you have 4 sts again. Loosely bind off. Enjoy your simple but elegant bias cable scarf!

Decreases (SSK)

I love the Nancy Dress/Skirt Pattern (Evidence here and here). I have made 2 and I wear them as soon as the temp hits 70 deg and wear them into the fall with leggings. I wear it as a skirt or a dress and love it especially as a skirt folded over. I continue to love it in my second trimester because it fits and is so nice to wear pulled up for support or folded over. Since maxi anything is all the rage now I knew I had to modify my favorite clothing item into a maxi skirt. I love it and have gotten so many compliments so far. I hemmed mine about ½ in. above my heels so it just skims the floor and puddles on the tops of my feet. It swishes wonderfully when I walk and looks divine with just a tank top and cardi with a chunky necklace. Or you can pop on some pearls, a t-shirt tucked in and some glitzy sandals for a date night. Any way you wear you feel fabulous and sexy just by slipping on this long knit skirt. Here's how to make your own.

First, download and print the Nancy Dress Free Pattern Download and assemble your pattern. Then measure from the top of your hip to the floor. You can do this by taping your measuring tape on to the wall and marking it with a pen/pin when standing next to it right where the top of your hip bone hits. Add 2 in. to this measurement. Extend the length of the skirt pattern piece from the Nancy Dress until it matches this measurement (This will customize the skirt to your height). Your skirt will probably need from 2 to 2.5 yds of jersey knit fabric in the pattern or color of your choice. Cut out your pattern pieces and assemble according to the pattern instructions but using a double turn 1 in hem at the bottom. This will give it weight so it drapes well, hangs just right and swishes while you walk. Pin your hem before you sew it so you can determine if it is right for you. Some like their maxis a little shorter than others. Try on your skirt and turn around to you can see from all angles and take a few steps to see how it feels. Adjust as needed.

P.s. It is perfect for windy beach vacations!

One of my favorite sewing patterns to relax with is Amy Butler's Chelsea Tote. This pattern is available in 2 sizes. I made the larger size for a knitting tote and have received many requests from friends for a Chelsea of their own. Of those who can sew, I tell them about the pattern and offer these tips for sewing up a Chelsea easier.

• I have read some suggestions about not marking on the outside of the fabric, as Amy suggests, and I disagree with Amy with stipulations. I used a water soluble marker and mark on the outside and then spritz it with a water bottle afterwards and it all turns out great. Some bloggers are of the mind that you would need to wash the bag afterward to get the marker off. I recommend you just spray it lightly, it disappears and your bag is good to go.

• FRAY CHECK- buy some and use it! I used it along my cut lines before top stitching the handles and then again in the corners after stitching. However, I have a suggestion on the handle too, if you will read below, but if you follow the Chelsea directions to the "T" then use the fray check as suggested above.

• Fabric glue or just a plain old glue stick. On my next Chelsea, I would use glue to keep the handles in check and then construct the bag as instructed without topstitching the handles. Then once you get to the part where you are attaching the reversible side to the outside there will be no stitching on your handles. This is when you top stitch around the top of the bag to finish it off, then top stitch the handles or if you prefer hand stitch the handles together. I feel that this will insure that your handles have a nice clean look. I cannot get my topstitching on both the lining and outside to match up and couple that with the fact that I am matching up handle holes at the same time. This will cut down on stress and guarantee a nice finish.         

I recommend using quilting cotton to make sure you find the perfect print for your Chelsea bag.

I know I am not that far into my pregnancy but since this is my second child, I am showing sooner and already find my pre-pregnancy clothing uncomfortable and I am ready for some maternity wear. This transition occurred just as I was prepared to pack away my family's winter clothing and bring out the warm weather wear. As I did this I happily discovered many of my favorite pieces from my previous projects could easily carry me through most, if not all, of my pregnancy. I will share with you which I am rocking currently and which I plan to modify for later wear when I am much, much bigger.

First up is my current favorite (Heather Ross Mendocino Sundress) because it is so comfy plus so chic. I instantly feel pulled together and lovely even though I am still suffering from morning all-day sickness. I cannot live without the pockets either which make it great for storing sippy cups, phone, keys and various rocks and flowers picked up on my many walks outside with my daughter. The elastic shirring means it will grow with me (everywhere it seems) and I don't show yet when wearing this dress. Free Pattern download from original post, click on link above.

Second, I am loving my Infinity Dress in ITY Knit. It is so easy to switch it up to hide or show off which ever parts I need to hide or draw attention to (to distract away from another area) since I am not in the "oh your pregnant, how wonderful" stage, more like the "I wonder if she's pregnant or just hitting the ice cream a little too hard" stage. Given this, having a dress that I can change each day and with my mood makes me feel like my old self: a million bucks. This dress can take me from school to a wedding in just a few minutes. The stretch of the ITY will accommodate my growing belly in style and comfort.

Third in my go-to maternity wardrobe is my Kwik Sew Knit Pullover dress that I modified with a scallop hem. Not only it this dress knit (stretch!) but the gathered waist features elastic meaning it is great for showing off a svelte waist when not pregnant and fitting around a growing belly when you are. The wide tank straps allow me to wear any bra I like which can vary on a day to day basis. This dress is nothing but relaxing to wear because it is just one item of clothing and I am ready to go with a pair of sandals.

Lastly, I already have the HotPatterns Cabriolet Dress/Skirt in Wool for winter but I am planning on making it in cotton for this summer. With the ties I can wrap it under my belly and as a dress I can have the ties go under my décolletage and above my belly giving me some definition but mostly style and comfort. I am torn between a bold busy pattern or a subdued floral (like Shannon's, click link above). Both shout summer to me. I guess I will just have to make it in both! This is a Fabric.com Free Pattern Download!

 Stay tuned for more in my Getting Ready for Baby series. I will be posting on this topic just twice a month and will include maternity, baby clothing, toys and gear as I get ready for Sept! Wish me luck!

What serger do you recommend?

Tara says: Seeing as how I don't have a serger, though I desperately want one, I can't recommend any specific make or model. But I can recommend an awesome website that you can check out that will provide you will all the details and reviews. Plus if you have even more questions you can ask the members themselves. Try Sewing Pattern Review. It is great in some many more ways than just finding your newest machine.

A close relative was just diagnosed with cancer and I want to knit something for her. What do you recommend?

Tara says: Oh, Great question. If your friend has breast cancer, I am a big fan of Tit Bits: knitted breast prosthesis. These little gems are too cute not to make you smile. Each pair (or just one if that suites your needs) can be customized to any recipient's favorite color, texture or fiber. Plus the designer, Beryl Tsang, recommends using a smooth stone as a weight and she embellishes her stones with good wishes.  

If you friend is going through Chemo, I whole-heartedly recommend knitting up a chemo cap. The patterns for these are hard not to find. If you are a member of Ravelry, try this search for Chemo Caps. If you are not a member, try a Google search for Chemo Cap Knitting Patterns.

I bought some beautiful Home Décor Fabric that I want to wear; what patterns can I use with Home Dec Fabric?

Tara says: Well, it depends on how heavy the fabric is. If it feels light and comparable to any of your other clothing, you can sub it in for any apparel fabric in a pattern. I had some wonderful linen curtains that I found in a vintage store and sewed them into a summer dress. If it is heavier, I would recommend you stick to bottoms, like shorts, pants, skirts, etc. I love using heavy weight linen or cottons for shorts in the summer because they hang so much better than lightweight linen or cotton. Your pants will wear longer too with heavier weights of fabric.

I want to bring my knitting on vacation with me but not sure what to knit at the beach.

Tara says: Anything small, not too complicated and probably knit from cotton or linen. This could include dishcloths, tea towels, tank tops or socks. I love some vacation knitting because the projects are so easy to take to go and I am done in a flash. 

It comes as no surprise that I am quite pleased that Fabric.com has added a kids clothing designer to our growing line of Free Pattern Downloads, Create Kids Couture. The first pattern released for free download is the Marilyn Slim Fit Peasant Dress & Top which I made this past weekend and loved. I was surprised to find what a fan I am of a well placed ruffle especially when the model is so especially cute in well placed ruffles.

First, this was a pretty quick garment to stitch up. The pattern is easy to cut and assemble with most of the pattern pieces rectangles that you cut out according to your size from the chart provided. The only piece you need to print and cut is the sleeve cup. The directions are a snap given that you are provided with pictures along with your instructions. This is a fun pattern to experiment with different fabric combos too because you can opt for just one fabric for the whole garment, 2 fabrics (one for the body and another for the sleeves and ruffle) or go crazy with 3 fabrics (one for each the body, sleeve and ruffle).

I am a really big fan of the elastic neckline. It creates a very soft shape that doesn't shift and my little one found comfy. PLUS, it can be stretched for larger heads or so you don't mess up those braids you spent 15 min persuading your little girl to "sit still" for. I chose not to add elastic to the arms because my daughter ending up not liking it (though today she might like it) and I thought it was too puffy. The plain sleeves look just as beautiful. I created the top length and am very pleased with the length. It is just right for a top though if you omit the ruffle (which I will try the next time I make it just for a different look) I will add 2 in. to the body to compensate. Despite the "Slim Fit" in the name, I found this dress very roomy for my preschool that still sports the toddler big round belly. She didn't feel confined or restricted in her movement. The top was a big hit! You can also try this pattern in a knit. Just cut a size smaller and cut the stretch widthwise on all pieces.