Staff Tips & Tricks: June 2012 Archives
I love using a lightweight chiffon or knit chiffon, which work great for the dupioni top in this example, but if I'm working with a more casual top, a drapey knit also works fabulously.
This one involves some math, but don't panic. I'll walk you through it (and it's pretty easy)!
First, measure around the upper part of your arm between the two points you wish you to attach your flutter sleeve. The positioning is entirely up to you. Don't sweat it if it's an estimate -- you can alter your flutter sleeve late in the game if you need to. (I had to on this one!)
My first measurement was 10 inches. I'm cutting the flutter as a half-circle, so I have to figure out how long the radius of my half circle is. If a circle's circumference (C) is calculated as 2 x Pi x radius (r), it stands to reason that half a circumference is Pi x radius. So, since we know that the half circumference measurement is 10 inches, we just need to divide that by Pi (3.14) to solve for the length of the radius.
Short version: Divide your measurement by 3.14 to get the radius. For mine, this result is roughly 3.2 inches. I show my work below (someone call my high school geometry teacher!):
Once you know the length of your radius, you have to mark out your semi-circle on paper to start your pattern. Mark an edge of your paper with a point -- this will be the center of your half circle. Measure from that point, and mark the length of the radius, working around your semi-circle with a series of dots.
Once you've made your series of dots, draw an arc to connect your dots.
To check your work, measure the semi-circle you just drew and see if it matches the first measurement you took.
Next, decide how long you want your sleeve to be. I decided on somewhere around 4.5 inches. Add this number to your radius number to get the length of the second radius you'll be using to draft your pattern. Using the exact same center point you used for your first semi-circle, draw in your second, larger semi-circle.
Use the paper pattern you just created to cut out your two sleeve pieces.
Next, test the dimensions of your sleeve with your garment. I had to cut mine down a little bit -- 10 inches was longer than I really wanted.
Once you have the sizing finalized, it's time to edge finish your sleeves. For the smaller arc which will become the top of the sleeve, I like to stitch a narrow piece of ribbon to the sleeve, and then turn it under and stitch again. This keeps the sleeve from distorting and stretching during wear.
Once my edge is in place, I edge finish the rest of the piece. If you have an overcast or rolled hem foot for your machine, now is the time to use it!
Once the sleeve is finished on all edges, you simply tack it to your garment at the top corners both front and back with a little hand stitching, and you're ready to go!
You can move your placement of your flutter sleeve up or down to suit your taste. You can cut it longer than needed and gather it for a fuller fall. You can also cut it as a full circle instead of a semi circle for even more flutter. This is also a good trick to add a little princess flair to a little girl's wardrobe.
Once you start playing with simple garment altering, you may find yourself inventing all kinds of ways to add new style to existing pieces. Be sure to share those with us on Facebook!
I have been asked countless times for my own tips and tricks to make my sewing easier or how I keep it all sane in the sewing room. It is time to share a few of my favorites since there is no way I can remember or document them all.
1) Pattern weights- I have made my own, several of different shapes and sizes and I use them all the time, everyday. Mine have beans on the bottom and stuffing on top so they also serve as pin cushions. But I don't just use them to keep from pinning my patterns but also to keep my fabric from falling off the table when I have a huge piece and only need to cut a bit. They also keep my fabric, papers and patterns in place since I have a tendency of bumping everything just a bit to knock my perfect alignments out of whack if I didn't have the weights.
2) I can't keep my tools in drawers; I have to have them out in sight in cups, vases, bowls or plates. I collect these open storage areas from thrift stores and home stores. If I can't see them, I will send half my time looking all over or forget about some really handy tools. My goal with the open storage is to make my tools (scissors, pens, markers, chalk, seam rippers, tape, clips, rulers, etc) easy to see but still pretty to look at.
3) I start sewing every seam ¾ in. away from the edge to prevent snags and the inevitable bottom fabric getting sucked into the bobbin casing. I take 1-2 forward stitches, then reverse to the edge and then get going forward again. It may seem like a lot of reverse stitches but it is my sure-fire way of avoiding the sucked in fabric (AND I HATE THAT!)
4) I don't cut my patterns, ever! I copy them onto freezer paper for several reasons. It is easier to fold up and store uncut patterns. If I lose a pattern piece it is not the original and I can trace another. I hate coming up with folding methods and storing cut tissue paper patterns. I also hate tissue paper patterns because they are so delicate and I paid big bucks for this pattern and it just ripped/my dog sat on it/ my kid drew on it/ it blew out the window. I can iron freezer paper. I have more but I should stop before I lose you.
5) I clip my pattern instruction onto the wall right in front of my work space. Before I did this, I had to use table space to lay out my instructions and they usually were buried under fabric and pattern pieces about 15 min in. No longer. With my instruction hanging, they cannot be buried and no longer take up valuable table real estate.
6) I don't use soluble markers. They don't last long enough for me and I have had issue with accidentally spraying them away while ironing or leaving an air soluble out overnight when called away to other duties. I use tailors chalk, chalk pencils, ballpoint pens and when no other mark will work sharpies (only for emergencies).
7) Replace your seam rippers often and I mean often. They dull and you might not realize it. I have had some for years and never put 2+2 together and realized some of my mistakes were from a dull ripper. A sharp seam ripper will work faster and better every time. Once you start to feel resistance or slipping, it is time to change your seam ripper. Stock up with every order. They don't cost much and 2-3 might just be what you need to get free shipping. Plus you can keep them all over so you won't have to look under every bit of fabric to find one ripper. You can collect them all later when you dutifully clean your sewing room!
Summer goes hand in hand with weddings and every knitter knows that knitting a wedding shawl is a rite of passage as well as a beloved gift that only you can give to a beloved bride for her wedding day. Even if the shawl is not directly part of the ceremony, it will serve as a reminder and symbol of the extraordinary day and summon up the feelings evoke every time the bride touches the soft knitted stitches.
Choosing a wedding shawl pattern is as important as choosing the yarn and color of your wedding shawl. You may choose to have the bride help you with all decisions or wish to surprise her with details that you picked that remind you of her in all three areas. The decision is up to you but do not feel overwhelmed by any of it. A wedding shawl does not need to meet any certain requirements other than it is made with love from you to the bride. It is akin to any other wedding present; its value is not determined by a receipt or store name. It is something crafted with a certain person knit into every stitch, just like all knitted goods. Have fun, just like picking out a birthday present. Some would say that what you feel can be worked into every stitch; so if you are worried, stressed or anxious over the reception of your gift, you are gifting those feelings to the bride. However, if you are elated, overjoyed and confident in knowing you are giving the bride a piece of beauty (no matter its final outcome) you are gifting those feelings for her marriage as well as a piece of hand knit.
Pick your yarn (go for natural fibers that can be blocked) based on the month of the wedding (cotton or silk for warmer months, cashmere or wool for cooler) to further help the shawl serve as a reminder of the wonderful day. Let this qualification also help you pick your colors. The bride may have green as a wedding color but choose a brighter green for spring/summer and a jewel tone for fall/winter. Lastly choose a pattern that reminds you of the bride in some way, either by the name of the pattern or the stitches used. If she enjoys flowers, let that play a central theme. If the bride loves sailing or rock climbing choose a braided cable that suggests rope. Lastly give yourself time. Time to make all your decisions and time to careful work on your shawl so that you enjoy it and have plenty of time to correct mistakes or practice a tricky stitch pattern.
I have only had the opportunity to make one wedding shawl for my now sister-in-law but I loved every second of it. I surprised her but worked closely with my brother to create it. I choose a mohair blend in cream and a modified Swallowtail pattern with an alternate border. The border is my favorite part but not part of the original plan. I tried for days to work the original border but found the mohair too tricky and the stitches too hard to count to see where my mistake was. So I scoured my stitch books and found the perfect compliment with a knit on border. The ending result was better than I had hoped and now a family heirloom. If I had not taken the time to really work on this shawl I would never have finished it due to frustration. Time is the #1 ingredient in making a beautiful wedding shawl and a poignant symbol to pass on with a wedding shawl.
If you're like me, and you're scrambling to come up with a gift for your dad at the last minute, look no further than you fabric stash! If you've got a couple of 16" x 10.5" scraps, you can whip up an iPad sleeve your dad will treasure.
For your lining fabric, something ultra soft with a nap is best. Think velvet, velveteen and minky. For your exterior fabric, anything that fits your dad's personality is perfect. I went with a striped suiting remnant.
All seam allowances on this project are 1/4".
Once you've cut your rectangles, stitch your lining and your exterior fabric along the top long edge. To orient your napped fabric, lay it out in front of you so brushing downward is a smooth motion, with the fabric's fibers laying flat. With this orientation, the top edge of your fabric is the one you will join to your exterior fabric. This way, the iPad will slide into the sleeve easily, and the nap of the fabric will naturally remove any dust or debris from the screen when you pull it out.
I like to understitch the seam allowance to the lining fabric at this stage.
Next, fold your fabric into a long tube as shown below. You'll be stitching along the long edge, and then across the exterior fabric to the fold.
This is a good time to turn your project right side out and test for fit. Remember, iPads have buttons along the outside edges, so if your sleeve is too tight, it can end up depressing buttons and adjust settings like the volume when the unit is inserted into the sleeve. You want the sleeve snug enough to hold the iPad without it sliding around, but with enough ease that it's not a struggle to slide the iPad in or out. Because the thickness of napped fabrics varied greatly, you may need to make adjustments.
Once you've got your fit squared away, close up the bottom of your lining fabric. You can machine stitch it like I did, or use a whip stitch to close it by hand.
Your iPad sleeve is ready for prime time! And this project can of course be easily adapted for any other brand of tablet. Just measure the unit's dimensions and add about 1" -1.5" to those measurements to determine your cutting dimensions.
If you have a sewing machine that does simple lettering stitches, you can further customize your project by adding a special message or sentiment. You can also embellish with patches or other trim to perfectly match your gift to your dad's personality!
The perfect summer project is a dishcloth afghan. It may sound a little odd but think of it as a big, soft, comfy blanket of swatches that look amazing all sewn up together. A dishcloth afghan is essentially like quilting, each square is a pieced quilt block and when each block is complete all the blocks are sewn together and the true beauty is revealed. I love dishcloth afghans because it feeds my need of color change, stitch change and quick gratification that only small projects can give me. Each dishcloth Afghan can be customized to your preference or for each gift recipient. Plus you only have to use the dishcloth pattern to inspire your blanket; you don't have to work it in cotton, try a selection of dishcloth patterns in Merino wool, a silk blend or Cashmere. Dishcloths are great for knitting in the car, in the park, on vacation or at the game. You can knit away on small projects all summer and have your blocks all worked up just before the leaves turn. You don't need to lug a huge afghan around to keep warm this winter. Or store more than 25 balls of one color either only to find out you only need 18 and now what are you going to do with 7 balls of biscotti brown wool!
For a wedding throw, you can select dishcloths in cables that represent entwining of love, working together and the beauty of two coming together and work each block in a soft wool blend for cozy nights watching movies. For the graduates, select patterns that remind the student of home or remind you of them (water patterns for swimming, cupcakes for a favorite dessert, etc) and work them up in a washable blend for ease. For a new baby, try ABC blocks, animals or different texture blocks in a cotton blend for breathability, washing and softness. For yourself, try the same or just 2-3 different dishcloth patterns worked in your favorite colors. I am running with this idea for my dishcloth afghan. I am using just one dishcloth pattern (from my Dishcloth Craze post) and am knitting it up in my favorite colors du jour: green, turquoise and gray. Then I will sew all my blocks up together (see illustration at the top) and then pick up stitches on each side, log cabin style, and work a 5-7 row garter stitch band to finish it off. You can try a simple band in a stitch pattern that compliments your dishcloths if garter doesn't work for you.
2009 Afghan by Lorena Haldeman and Sharon Emery
The dishcloth afghans not only make great cozy couch throws but also picnic blankets, car blankets, bed spreads and wall hangings because the size is so easy to manipulate. You can work just a few blocks or 30 depending on your needs. My favorite part is picking out the dishcloth patterns for each project, it is the same euphoria I find when selecting fabric for my next sewing project!
If you have one great t-shirt pattern than what more could you ask for. Well, maybe not a whole closet of the same shirt in different colors. Perhaps you would like the same fit but with a different sleeve, neckline or any other added detail to keep you on trend. So you scour the net or pattern books for just the right look and hope that that pattern fits just the way you like. Umm, nope, let's not do that and make out own instead. If you have a great fitting tee than you have the basics to get started. Making modifications is easy and you only need a few tools to get it done.
Tools you will need:
Big paper- This is to draw your new pattern on and make notes as you go. I use a huge roll of newspaper print that you can ask your local paper for the end rolls. My mom uses rolls of painters' paper or you can use a roll of freezer paper.
French Curve- This is a set of weirdly shaped measuring devices that can help you make graceful and appropriate curves that are great for necklines, hems and hip lines among others. If you don't have a set then you can easily use household finds like plates, knives (the edges often feature soft curves just be careful) oval or round frames or you can print an image from the web and adjust the size.
Clear quilting ruler- this will help you extend sleeve lines, hem line or width of your pattern.
To make a shirt like mine, I choose a well fitting front pattern piece from a crew neck tank (I used our free pattern download HotPatterns Flutterby Tank) that I had previously modified into a deep V-neck with attached capped sleeves. Since I was only modifying the top I decided to only add paper to the top part of the pattern to save paper and hassle. I traced the pattern line I wanted to keep and added my new lines. I made a more modest v-neck and added some slim kimono sleeves (attached, not set in). To make a nice v-neck, always make the v-neck narrower than you think. Remember that you are creating a pattern piece on the fold, so it will be twice as wide as it looks and you will probably be adding some neck trim so that will make it even wider. Too wide V-necks can slide off your shoulders and expose bra straps. A proper v-neck is also slightly curved toward the tip of the 'v' so using the French curve really helps obtain that gentle slope. I added 4 in. to my arm holes to get a nice, slightly fluttery kimono sleeve. Then I cut out my new pattern piece and matched and taped it over my existing pattern piece. Voila a new t-shirt pattern piece. I opted to use the same pattern piece for the front and back of the shirt to give an interesting back. It turned out really great. I also ended up adding 6 in. to the length, adding elastic to the sides to make it into a maternity shirt for now. After the babe is born I will cut off the extra length and remove the elastic.
If you want to try other changes, I recommend folding your paper in half when you are drawing your modifications so you can open it up to see how it will look or drawing on a muslin so you can see it with drape. Try changing the rotation of the v-neck to make a boat neck, just changing the back neckline of a crewneck for a dramatic and sexy scooped back or changing the length and width of your set in sleeves. Raglans can also be easily modified to make sweatshirts, halter and tank tops. All you need is paper and some imagination (or inspiration from the net).
Check out Holly's Flutterby here and special thanks to her because I borrowed her picture
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On my post last week in which I recreated some posh designer baby blankets, I used fabric markers to stamp my fabric to match the inspiration images on the original blankets. I used both Bold and Thin Marvy Uchida Marker sets in Bright. I loved playing with these markers. I think they are great for marking kids' clothes (perfect for camp wardrobes), decorating t-shirts, fancying up dishtowels for hostess gifts or adding the final touch to your new curtains. I really loved stamping with them. The key is to test match the color to the fabric. Certain colors show up better on certain colors, textures and fabrics.
For example, the bright green really glowed on the white batiste, while the purple popped on the thick texture of the ivory Hero Cotton of my baby blankets (shown above, the apple is stamped in purple and then colored in yellow-green and purple). Not only were these markers great for coloring the stamp but also coloring in the stamp. To recreate my stamped images I recommend rubber stamps. I used both the rubber (apple) and silicone (they are sticky backed that you can apply to acrylic blocks to create your own stamps). The rubber back soaked up the ink and transferred it better than the silicone (birds and owl). Run your markers over the stamp and get the ink on all the raised bits of the stamp. Try to do it as quick as possible or just run over the stamp several times to make sure you get it all. Then line up your stamp and press firmly but don't rock or wiggle your stamp- this will create thicker lines that look like shadows. If you would like your lines thicker or darker, take your thin markers and go over the stamped image or use the bold markers to color your stamped image. I tried tracing mine with a black sharpie marker and that worked for some images but not all- test first.
To create my apples, I used the bold markers to color the stamp and then colored the apple in with the bold and traced the outline with the thin fabric markers and outlined with a black sharpie. The blue apple is stamped in blue and then colored in blue and the leaf is in green. The yellow green apple is stamped in green and colored in yellow-green. My rose colored birds were created by coloring my silicone stamp with the bright red and then tracing and coloring it with the thin bright red fabric marker. I traced one with the black but the tip was too wide to really do the outline justice. I also tried one bird in just the black sharpie but it did not transfer very well. The lightest bird is just the stamping without tracing and coloring. It pops more on the gauze blanket.
My second sample is another silicone stamp (owl) in which I tried to determine which color showed up best on the natural colored linen of my test fabric. The purple was the winner with blue in second, then green and yellow (of course) last. You can see how I tried to improve the yellow with some black but again I needed a thinner tip for the black, next time I will use the Marvy Uchida Thin Black Tips but I didn't consider a black outline when planning this project The yellow really stands out when I just drew with it alone- no stamping, just free drawing (Sun). At the bottom you can see how each marker performs and its thickness. The thin tips are at the top and the bold tips are below. Each marker was made by drawing a line and then going over it twice (the colors are from left to right: red, yellow, blue, yellow-green, purple and green). The thin tips are really the perfect size for tracing or outline work (stencils and monograms) and the bold are just right for coloring and stamping.
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Here's how to make one for yourself:
You'll need a little bit of swimwear/activewear fabric. Since I make a lot of my running gear, I have an epic stash of lycra scraps. The key is that it needs a lot of stretch. You'll also need some t-shirt scraps, and a short zipper. (Any zipper 4" or longer will work -- you can trim any excess length.)
This version works great on a 7" wrist. It's got plenty of stretch, so there's some flexibility to the size. It's also easy to adjust measurements to customize your fit.
- Cut 2 rectangles 3.5" x 5" out of your activewear fabric.(You want the greatest stretch across the 3.5" width.)
- Cut 2 rectangles 3.5" x 5" out of your tee shirt scraps. I like to use the sleeves of a t-shirt and leave the bigger pieces for other projects.
- Last, cut a 5.5" x 8" piece of your activewear fabric.
(A quick note on pictures: I was making three of these concurrently, so steps may be shown in different fabrics as we go!)
First, fold your long rectangle so the 5.5" edges meet up, right sides together.
Stitch along the 5.5" edges. I suggest using a stretch stitch, as this seam will wrap around your wrist.
Turn your tube right side out, and set it aside. I like to align my seam so it sits along the center of what will be the middle of the underside of my cuff.
To set in your zipper, sandwich it in between your activewear fabric and your t-shirt fabric. The t-shirt scrap should be on the underside of the zipper and the activewear on top. Stitch along the edge, catching in all three layers. You may need to move your zipper pull out of the way at some point to keep your stitching smooth. Repeat this step for both sides.
Flip all fabrics outward, away from your zipper, and top stitch along each side of the zipper. You may be tempted to press your fabrics out, but I wouldn't advise it. The elastic fibers in activewear fabrics will often melt under even low heat.
Grab your tube that you set aside earlier, and place it on top of your zipper section. Situate it seam side down with one of the open ends approximately 3/8" to 1/2" to the right of the zipper.
Stitch down the tube 1/4" from the raw edge.
Now, fold your tube to the left and top stitch 3/8" from the folded edge. This will hide your raw edge, and it will give you a bit of reinforcement for your cuff.
Next, baste the remaining open end of your tube to either edge of your open zipper section.
You can give your cuff a size test once the basting is in place and adjust if needed. Keep in mind, it will get a little tighter as you finish the wallet.
Open up the zipper before the next part, or you won't be able to turn it right side out!
Fold your wallet closed, right sides together.
And then stitch around the three remaining edges, being careful not to catch your cuff in the stitching.
Turn it right side out, and voila! Ready to roll!
And the second is a little Hawaiian number to enjoy through the summer, and during the winter when I need a boost.
I love these handy little cuffs -- they're great for running and travel, and when I'm using one, I always know where my wallet is. (I am a perpetual nervous wallet checker.) I never take a bag with me anywhere on quick errands -- I just grab my wallet and my phone and go! And speaking of phones, you could always make a larger version if you need to carry your smartphone, but remember -- these aren't water resistant, so sweat or inclement weather can get to your electronics.
There are some weird fabrics out in the market and there are some really neat and interesting fabrics as well; Chalk cloth is a delightful blending of the two. Who would have thought that there would be a cloth that would mimic a chalk board? One that would be easy to use, have endless applications and fun to play with. It is amazing and a great idea and I am so glad Fabric.com carries it! My idea was for chair slipcovers; they would be great for dinner parties or assigning kids seating as well as craft centers for rainy days. But then I decided that chalk cloth would be better for tote bags or lunch boxes where you could write the contents contained inside on the outside or a 'To-do' list on the tote bag for errands. Then, I decided on a kid's placemat with pockets for chalk and stencils to take to restaurants. Finally I decided that I would start with something simple and small to determine how best to sew the chalk cloth and how well it works and then decide which projects it would be best for. So I choose to do an appliqué.
Here are the basics I learned working with chalk cloth.
1) Chalk cloth is very similar to oilcloth and laminated cotton in that you do not want to pin it because the holes will be visible and can ruin the fabric. If you are using large pieces and are seaming then try using office clips to secure raw edges together. If you are working with small pieces to be applied like appliqués and handles, use a glue stick for a temporary hold. I DO NOT recommend tape (as seen in picture). It just doesn't hold well.
2) Use a heavier needle but if you are using a secondary fabric, let that determine the exact size. Choose between a size 14 or 16 needle since chalk cloth is a heavy weight fabric but if you are applying it to a light weight fabric like quilting cotton-first interface the cotton with a medium interfacing so it can stand up to the weight of the chalk cloth- and then use the size 14 needle. If you are combining the chalk cloth with a medium weight fabric, like linen, use a lighter weight interfacing to add to its stability and then practice with the 14 and the 16 to determine which needle works better since medium can vary widely. If pairing the chalk cloth with heavy weight fabric, like Home Décor, no interfacing is needed and use the size 16.
3) If you are adding the chalk cloth to a t-shirt or other knit fabric, add a stabilizer to the back of the knit fabric (it can be temporary or not). This will prevent the knit fabric from puckering under the heavier chalk cloth.
4) The chalk cloth does wipe off with a dry cloth but wet is better.
I found a butterfly shape by doing a Google search for butterfly coloring pages and printed it in 2 different sizes (the smaller by 20%). Then I cut both out and traced the shapes on the backside of the chalk cloth (the backside is a loose woven mesh of cotton fibers that are easy to trace on to with pen or markers, neither will show up on the other side). Then I cut out both shapes and decided where on each shirt (one momma shirt and one toddler shirt) I wanted the pattern using a water soluble marker, marked the placement. Then I applied a light coat of glue stick on the backside of each appliqué and placed them within the placement markings. Then using a size 14 or 16 needle I zig-zagged around the perimeter of each appliqué to secure using black thread.
It is best to write on the appliqué first if you will be wearing it (then carefully put it on so as not to smear) or have someone else write on it while you are wearing the applied piece, otherwise you will be writing on yourself upside-down and backwards. If the applied piece is for a kid, I suggest a small pocket to store chalk and a cloth. My little one spent half a day carrying a piece of chalk and wet wash cloth so she could scribble on herself and then wash it off. Her butterfly loves to be covered in flowers, different butterfly decorations or her age. My butterfly will display how many months along I am for maternity belly pictures and family gatherings (one less pregnancy question to answer).
For this project I recovered a Fabric.com box to keep all my snacks and juice boxes in my car. They were floating all over and sliding around; I could never find something when I needed it. My snack box features one side of chalkcloth (to announce the goodies stored inside), laminated cotton on the inside (so spills can be cleaned easily) and canvas on the remaining exterior. The bottom is a piece of Rainbow Felt to keep my box from sliding about in the trunk. To make your own, find a box that is a good size for you and your car, cut off the flaps and measure each side and the bottom. Cut fabric to these measurements and sew together first the exterior and then the interior sides. A great tip is to use a walking foot for your chalk cloth or laminated cotton but if you don't have one then when sewing the chalk cloth to the canvas, place the chalk cloth on top and the canvas on the bottom. This will prevent the creeping of cloth that can happen when one fabric is looser than the other. Once all your exterior and interior pieces are sewn together, place the interior inside the exterior with RS facing and stitch around the top. Turn RS out and finger press seams open and then topstitch around the top. Now sew the bottom onto the lining, RS facing. Turn everything rightside out and place it in your box. With a glue gun, secure the bottom of the exterior to the bottom of the box and then apply your felt overlapping by 1/2 in. to 1 in. of the exterior with the glue gun.
Enjoy your snack box, or use it as a toy box, hair bow box, sewing or knitting box or any other kind of storage where you might need some chalk cloth to help your identify the contents. I am planning more for my nursery and 3 yr old's room as toy boxes as well as bibs, towels, blankets and socks!
Check out more project on Pinterest.
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