Sewing: April 2012 Archives

Is there anything easier for summer dressing than throwing on a frock and running out the door? The answer is no, always. I never tire of dresses. They can be so comfortable, so effortlessly girlie. There can never be enough!

The appeal of the Kwik Sew Bohemian Short Sleeved Dress pattern is its simplicity. Since I love a quick project that I can make in a night to wear the next day, this one sparked my interest. The breezy feel of it was also a draw because it looked cool and comfortable -- vital in any Atlanta girl's wardrobe once May arrives.

For my first version of this pattern, I chose a zebra printed ITY. It whipped together like a dream, and it is beyond comfy. The pattern itself really couldn't be easier. The elastic at the neckline and sleeves is inset before you close those seams, which makes it a breeze to assemble -- easy as pie to make sure your elastic hasn't twisted.

I am short -- 5'3" -- and I have a full bust, and I felt like the neckline dipped a little to low to wear without a camisole or tank top underneath it.



This dress is a packing dream -- especially in ITY. You can easily roll it and toss it in a bag. It takes up no space and doesn't wrinkle. Also, because the ITY is lightweight and glides on the body, it's great for layering. I paired it with a denim vest and really loved the combo.



For my second version, I used a printed rayon blend rib knit, and I cut the neckline about 1.5" higher than the pattern called for. This gave me better coverage through the bust line.

 

Obsession is a bit of an overstatement (just a bit) when it comes to my desire to try out our new Stretch Ruffle Knit Fabric. I loved it from first sight and once I had it in hand it was even more delicious! The small ruffles are just right; a slight shake here or shimmy there and the whole fabric dances. It would be perfect for turning any ordinary project into something wonderful! I set to work right away on a simple little dress for my little one. I envisioned something she could run around and play in but also wear out, should we be brave enough to take her "someplace nice",  and family pictures. What I ended up with was so much more.

Let me start by saying that there is a fair amount of stretch to this fabric which makes it ideal for kids clothing. While this dress looked so fancy on my daughter it did not feel fancy (to me fancy kids clothing= uncomfortable). She loved wearing it. I loved how RIDICULOUSLY easy it was to make.  The dress features 2 gores in the back for extra swing and extra running leg room plus 'Y' shaped straps that fasten in the back with Velcro. This makes adjusting for a tank top underneath or slipping on over a swimsuit simple. I have also found that should your child tend toward tantrums when it comes time to undress, just a quick swipe of the fingers and the dress is off!

To make your own follow below:

Materials

1 yd Stretch Ruffle Knit fabric

¼ yd of Quilting Cotton

6 in. of 3/4in. wide Velcro

Cut a rectangle that is 15-18 in. long (depending on how tall your child is or how long you want the dress. Mine was 18 in. for a 3yr old) by the width of her chest. Also cut 2 gores that are the same length as your rectangle but 1 in. wide at the top and 4 in. wide at the bottom.  Cut 25 in. of bias tape from the quilting cotton as well as two 4.5 in. by 8 in straps and one 4.5 in. by 6 in. strap.

Begin by joining the gores to each side of the rectangle, RS together and stitch in place using a zig zag stitch. Then join the 2 gores together making a tube. Stitch a basting stitch around the top of the tube and slightly gather the top of your dress since the added gores have made it wider than the chest measurement. Gather until your dress is back to the chest measurement. Pin your bias tape to the top of your dress (RS facing) and stitch in place using a zigzag stitch. Fold over your bias tape and stitch in place using a small zig zag stitch or longer straight stitch.

Fold one of your straps in half along its length and press, open up and fold each edge toward the center crease and press in place (you are folding it in quarters). Fold along the center crease and press again and pin along the open edge. Stitch the strap closed using a ¼ in. seam and then added more decorative stitching at ¼ in. intervals. Repeat for the remaining straps.

Cut your Velcro into two 2 in. length and pull apart. On one long strap pin and stitch one female Velcro piece, pin and stitch the male piece onto the other long strap. On the shorter strap, pin and stitch one female piece on one side and pin and stitch one male piece on the other side. Mark your long strap placement by trying the dress on your child or using another dress as a guide stitch in place using 2 lines of stitching. Center your short strap on the back gores and stitch in place using 2 lines of stitching to secure.

You're done. The Velcro not only makes for easy dressing and undressing but allows you to adjust the angle of the straps for maximum comfort. This dress makes a great swimsuit cover up or picnic play dress- if she spills ketchup on it no need to worry about how to keep it out of her hair as your pull the dress off, just release the straps and step out! 

I was inspired by this blog post I found on Pinterest of a recreation of a Banana Republic T-shirt with a braided neckline. I loved it however, both the recreation and the original were loose fitting in order to create the braided neckline. I didn't want a loose shirt, I have had enough. I wanted to create the braided neckline with a fitted or semi fitted Tee (Heck, any fit that you prefer). I also didn't like the ruching-gathering that was the natural bi-product of the recreation tutorial. So I decided to find a way of adding the braiding without the extras I didn't want. Here's how to do it.

First cut out your chosen t-shirt pattern but don't assemble. From the remaining fabric cut a 4 in wide strip that is 2.5 times the length you need your finished braid to be (Ex: for a 15 in. braid, I cut a 38 in. long strip). Layout your strip and cut a widthwise slit every 2 in. down the length leaving .5 in. on each side. 

Next, we start braiding. Start at the right end, take the top most loop (there are now 2 parts to this strip, the slits and the loops. The loops are the sections of fabric in between each slit) and pull it up a bit to create a void.

 

Take the second loop and pull it up though the void you just created and pull it back down again.

Now take the 3^rd loop and pull it up through the 2^nd and pull it back down. Continue in this pattern until you have used up all your loops.  

Secure each end with a quick little zig zag stitch. Make the braid a little longer than needed so the zig zag stitch will be hidden in each shoulder seam (you can always stretch it a bit if it is not quite long enough). 

Pull the braid a bit to shape the braid and pull all the loops into place. 

Pin the braid onto your neckline, overlapping the braid over the neck edge a bit and leaving the zig zag stitch hidden in the shoulder seam allowance. Stitch in place using a medium straight stitch worked down the middle of the braid. Next stitch another line about ¼ in. away from the center stitch line on the inside edge of the neckline (Not closest to the neck edge) tucking in the edges of the braid as you go. This final stitch line will keep the raw edges hidden and keep the braid from rolling to the wrong side of the t-shirt. Add some binding to the neck edge of the back t-shirt piece. 

Assemble your t-shirt according to your pattern.

Feel free to add more than one braided piece to your neckline or at the waist. You can experiment with the size of your loops by cutting slits every 1 in or 3 in. this will make your braid more delicate or chunkier depending on the look and where you are placing your braided trim. 

I used our Rayon Slub Jersey Knit Fabric. It is soft and has a night light drape. I recommend a jersey knit because the natural curl with hide any raw edges of the braid trim. 

Picture from Two on, Two off

April's Blog of the Month is Two On, Two off.  When I came across Dawn's blog I thought that she was funny and had a really great sense of style. I am amazed at all the garments that she has created. The fabric and pattern combinations are inspiring for the most jaded of sewers. If you are considering giving up garment sewing because you are bored or just aren't "feeling it" any more, check out Two on, Two off and you will be back in business in no time. It is hard not to itch for some apparel fabric and a few patterns once you read this blog. My favorite is her version of Butterick 5634 Ruffled Dress. I love this dress so much I am tempted to track this blog mistress down and steal it from her closet. Dawn is great at providing tons of well-done pictures and explains all the changes she did or didn't make to each pattern. Sometimes the piece is quick and easy and lovely, sometimes it is complicated but still lovely and each time she will let you know how it really broke down! She is honest, clever and humorous.

Who loves to clean? NOT ME.

Just the same, it has to get done once in a while. For me, that means it has to happen when company's coming. Please don't judge me.

Because I'm a little hit or miss in my cleaning, I sometimes find myself without the supplies I should have on hand ... usually in the middle of the night, when I finally get my rear in gear. That means that many stores are closed, and I'm probably too lazy to venture out to the ones that are open. Sewing machine and scraps to the rescue!

First off, I made a cover for my Swiffer duster. The first sample is made with my old standby fabric -- a t-shirt from the scrap bag!

First, I laid out a fabric rectangle roughly 10 inches square and three layers of fabric thick with the Swiffer's duster arm on top, and outlined the arm with a fabric marking pen.

Without the Swiffer on top, this is what the marking looks like:

Here's the outline without the mop in the way:

Next, I cut around my outline, leaving roughly 3/8 of an inch around the outside.

Next, I used the towel as a pattern piece to cut a matching piece of fleece.

Here's my Wet Jet mop in action!

 

 

I love the Nancy Dress/Skirt Pattern (Evidence here and here). I have made 2 and I wear them as soon as the temp hits 70 deg and wear them into the fall with leggings. I wear it as a skirt or a dress and love it especially as a skirt folded over. I continue to love it in my second trimester because it fits and is so nice to wear pulled up for support or folded over. Since maxi anything is all the rage now I knew I had to modify my favorite clothing item into a maxi skirt. I love it and have gotten so many compliments so far. I hemmed mine about ½ in. above my heels so it just skims the floor and puddles on the tops of my feet. It swishes wonderfully when I walk and looks divine with just a tank top and cardi with a chunky necklace. Or you can pop on some pearls, a t-shirt tucked in and some glitzy sandals for a date night. Any way you wear you feel fabulous and sexy just by slipping on this long knit skirt. Here's how to make your own.

First, download and print the Nancy Dress Free Pattern Download and assemble your pattern. Then measure from the top of your hip to the floor. You can do this by taping your measuring tape on to the wall and marking it with a pen/pin when standing next to it right where the top of your hip bone hits. Add 2 in. to this measurement. Extend the length of the skirt pattern piece from the Nancy Dress until it matches this measurement (This will customize the skirt to your height). Your skirt will probably need from 2 to 2.5 yds of jersey knit fabric in the pattern or color of your choice. Cut out your pattern pieces and assemble according to the pattern instructions but using a double turn 1 in hem at the bottom. This will give it weight so it drapes well, hangs just right and swishes while you walk. Pin your hem before you sew it so you can determine if it is right for you. Some like their maxis a little shorter than others. Try on your skirt and turn around to you can see from all angles and take a few steps to see how it feels. Adjust as needed.

P.s. It is perfect for windy beach vacations!

 

 

Have you ever had one of those pairs of pants that you just love so much, you wear them waaaaaaaaaay past their expiration date? I am woefully guilty of doing just that. I have a pair of corduroys that I wore for the last three years, despite them being riddled with holes. I finally had to retire them when I realized I had been flashing my behind all over Atlanta while out running errands one Saturday morning. But parting is such sweet sorrow ...

I had to find a way to keep my beloved cords with me, even if I couldn't wear them. Since every discarded garment gets treated as yardage at my house, it was just a matter of figuring out how to turn the usable parts of my trousers into something new. Voila! The Pants Leg Purse was born.

Here's how they came into being:

First, I cut a 12-inch piece off the bottom of one of the legs. I chose the leg with an intact hem, because that would be used for the top of my bag.


Next, I added an iron-on I've been hording to what would become the front. I have a pirate-themed getaway weekend coming up, so I thought this would be the perfect time to finally use my flocked velvet skull and crossbones! If you have an embellishment you want to add to this project, this is the best time. Once the zipper is in and the bottom is finished, it's harder to do any maneuvering your applique may require.

Don't miss this opportunity to do really fun stuff! You can add an applique, cut a motif out of your favorite fabric to apply, add a rhinestone design, embellish with ribbon stripes -- any kind of trim you can imagine!



Next, I sewed the zipper in at the top. I just nestled it under the hemmed edge of the pants so I wouldn't have to worry about any raw edges fraying. I left a little space on each end of the zipper unstitched. You'll see why in a minute!


Here's what it looks like with the zipper stitched in. As you can see, my zipper was too long. No worries -- I just tucked it in for the moment. Later, I'll trim it down.

Next, I removed two of the belt carriers from the pants.

Here they are, free-range (for the moment):

I folded the carriers in half, and set them into the folds on each end of the purse opening. Stitching through all those layers is tricky business. I had to take things slowly, and hand walk my machine through some of the rougher spots.

Once both tabs were in place, I clipped the extra zipper length that was tucked inside. Here's the finished top of the bag from the outside:



Time to close up the bottom! I unzipped my zipper and turned the bag inside out, making sure the bottom edges were even.


I stitched the bag closed with a straight stitch. This is the one raw edge to the bag you'll have, since you're using a piece of pant leg, so you'll want to serge or zig-zag the edge.


To make a slight box shape on the bottom of the bag, I folded the bottom seam to make triangle corners.


And then I stitched the triangles into place, perpendicular to the bottom seam.


This is the interior of the bag with the corners stitched into a box shape:


Here's the bag turned right side out:

For the strap, I used a strap I already had on hand, but if you don't have one, it's just matter of stitching webbing in your desired length to a pair of swivel clips like the ones here. I highly recommend the swivel-clip approach, because you can use the same strap on multiple bags. Because no one should have just one of these bags -- pants have two legs!

Here's the finished bag, ready for a pirate adventure!



This project works with jeans, cords, and even dressier pants. There are no rules -- just a chance to recycle in an imaginative way!

I know I am not that far into my pregnancy but since this is my second child, I am showing sooner and already find my pre-pregnancy clothing uncomfortable and I am ready for some maternity wear. This transition occurred just as I was prepared to pack away my family's winter clothing and bring out the warm weather wear. As I did this I happily discovered many of my favorite pieces from my previous projects could easily carry me through most, if not all, of my pregnancy. I will share with you which I am rocking currently and which I plan to modify for later wear when I am much, much bigger.

First up is my current favorite (Heather Ross Mendocino Sundress) because it is so comfy plus so chic. I instantly feel pulled together and lovely even though I am still suffering from morning all-day sickness. I cannot live without the pockets either which make it great for storing sippy cups, phone, keys and various rocks and flowers picked up on my many walks outside with my daughter. The elastic shirring means it will grow with me (everywhere it seems) and I don't show yet when wearing this dress. Free Pattern download from original post, click on link above.

Second, I am loving my Infinity Dress in ITY Knit. It is so easy to switch it up to hide or show off which ever parts I need to hide or draw attention to (to distract away from another area) since I am not in the "oh your pregnant, how wonderful" stage, more like the "I wonder if she's pregnant or just hitting the ice cream a little too hard" stage. Given this, having a dress that I can change each day and with my mood makes me feel like my old self: a million bucks. This dress can take me from school to a wedding in just a few minutes. The stretch of the ITY will accommodate my growing belly in style and comfort.

Third in my go-to maternity wardrobe is my Kwik Sew Knit Pullover dress that I modified with a scallop hem. Not only it this dress knit (stretch!) but the gathered waist features elastic meaning it is great for showing off a svelte waist when not pregnant and fitting around a growing belly when you are. The wide tank straps allow me to wear any bra I like which can vary on a day to day basis. This dress is nothing but relaxing to wear because it is just one item of clothing and I am ready to go with a pair of sandals.

Lastly, I already have the HotPatterns Cabriolet Dress/Skirt in Wool for winter but I am planning on making it in cotton for this summer. With the ties I can wrap it under my belly and as a dress I can have the ties go under my décolletage and above my belly giving me some definition but mostly style and comfort. I am torn between a bold busy pattern or a subdued floral (like Shannon's, click link above). Both shout summer to me. I guess I will just have to make it in both! This is a Fabric.com Free Pattern Download!

 

 Stay tuned for more in my Getting Ready for Baby series. I will be posting on this topic just twice a month and will include maternity, baby clothing, toys and gear as I get ready for Sept! Wish me luck!

 

What serger do you recommend?

Tara says: Seeing as how I don't have a serger, though I desperately want one, I can't recommend any specific make or model. But I can recommend an awesome website that you can check out that will provide you will all the details and reviews. Plus if you have even more questions you can ask the members themselves. Try Sewing Pattern Review. It is great in some many more ways than just finding your newest machine.

A close relative was just diagnosed with cancer and I want to knit something for her. What do you recommend?

Tara says: Oh, Great question. If your friend has breast cancer, I am a big fan of Tit Bits: knitted breast prosthesis. These little gems are too cute not to make you smile. Each pair (or just one if that suites your needs) can be customized to any recipient's favorite color, texture or fiber. Plus the designer, Beryl Tsang, recommends using a smooth stone as a weight and she embellishes her stones with good wishes.  

If you friend is going through Chemo, I whole-heartedly recommend knitting up a chemo cap. The patterns for these are hard not to find. If you are a member of Ravelry, try this search for Chemo Caps. If you are not a member, try a Google search for Chemo Cap Knitting Patterns.

I bought some beautiful Home Décor Fabric that I want to wear; what patterns can I use with Home Dec Fabric?

Tara says: Well, it depends on how heavy the fabric is. If it feels light and comparable to any of your other clothing, you can sub it in for any apparel fabric in a pattern. I had some wonderful linen curtains that I found in a vintage store and sewed them into a summer dress. If it is heavier, I would recommend you stick to bottoms, like shorts, pants, skirts, etc. I love using heavy weight linen or cottons for shorts in the summer because they hang so much better than lightweight linen or cotton. Your pants will wear longer too with heavier weights of fabric.

I want to bring my knitting on vacation with me but not sure what to knit at the beach.

Tara says: Anything small, not too complicated and probably knit from cotton or linen. This could include dishcloths, tea towels, tank tops or socks. I love some vacation knitting because the projects are so easy to take to go and I am done in a flash. 

Time to test drive a new Hot Patterns free download: the Tropicana maxi skirt!

Things are already hot in Atlanta, so I'm definitely ready for summer clothes. I am eager for flowing, breezy style that doesn't drag me down when the temps are climbing, so a tropical skirt is perfect for my sewing mood right now.

The trick with maxi skirts, for me, is that I'm ... shrimpy. I stand 5'3" on a good day with perfect posture, so most maxi dresses or skirts drag the ground on me unless I make some alterations. This pattern is perfect for such alterations because of the multiple tiers. The trick is ensuring that when you make changes, you maintain the seam lines so everything still matches up. Here's how I do it on a project like this one:


First, I assembled the pattern as intended. Here is lower middle tier piece at its normal length:

When it came time to shorten the pattern, I pulled the taped pieces apart (I use an inexpensive athletic tape for assembly -- it comes apart without much struggle, but it also holds well):


Then, I reassembled the pattern piece so that the overlap between the two pieces of paper was much greater, shortening it by several inches:

To even out the outside cutting edge, I trimmed the excess paper that prevented a smooth transition from one piece of the pattern paper to the next:


Here's the altered pattern piece, with the small piece I trimmed off sitting next to it:

It comes as no surprise that I am quite pleased that Fabric.com has added a kids clothing designer to our growing line of Free Pattern Downloads, Create Kids Couture. The first pattern released for free download is the Marilyn Slim Fit Peasant Dress & Top which I made this past weekend and loved. I was surprised to find what a fan I am of a well placed ruffle especially when the model is so especially cute in well placed ruffles.

First, this was a pretty quick garment to stitch up. The pattern is easy to cut and assemble with most of the pattern pieces rectangles that you cut out according to your size from the chart provided. The only piece you need to print and cut is the sleeve cup. The directions are a snap given that you are provided with pictures along with your instructions. This is a fun pattern to experiment with different fabric combos too because you can opt for just one fabric for the whole garment, 2 fabrics (one for the body and another for the sleeves and ruffle) or go crazy with 3 fabrics (one for each the body, sleeve and ruffle).

I am a really big fan of the elastic neckline. It creates a very soft shape that doesn't shift and my little one found comfy. PLUS, it can be stretched for larger heads or so you don't mess up those braids you spent 15 min persuading your little girl to "sit still" for. I chose not to add elastic to the arms because my daughter ending up not liking it (though today she might like it) and I thought it was too puffy. The plain sleeves look just as beautiful. I created the top length and am very pleased with the length. It is just right for a top though if you omit the ruffle (which I will try the next time I make it just for a different look) I will add 2 in. to the body to compensate. Despite the "Slim Fit" in the name, I found this dress very roomy for my preschool that still sports the toddler big round belly. She didn't feel confined or restricted in her movement. The top was a big hit! You can also try this pattern in a knit. Just cut a size smaller and cut the stretch widthwise on all pieces. 

Who doesn't love a cargo pant? I know I do. I like the utility look of them, and I love having pockets to stash things in on the go.

I have been wanting to test drive the Hot Patterns Weekender Track & Field Cargo Pants pattern for a while. The pieced legs and topstitched detailing really appeal to me, but I also was a little fretful that it would make for a very arduous process, getting all those details in place.

So, as I was cutting, I couldn't help but think, "This pattern has 8,000 pieces. This is gonna take forEVER." But once my cutting was complete and I set to work, I found that things actually moved along at a decent pace. There is a certain measure of patience you need whenever you set your sights on a project that has a lot of details, but I generally find that patience is handsomely rewarded. I am happy to report that is the case with these pants.

I opted for an organic sweatshirt fleece for this pair. Now that I have one run through this pattern under my belt, I know I want to make another in a fabric that has no stretch, just to see how it compares.

To give you an example of the detailing process on these pants, I photographed the back pocket assembly as I went.

First up, there's a semi-circle of topstitching that goes on the assembled pocket flap. I knew I couldn't possibly just wing it and get anything even vaguely akin to a circular arc, so I cut a circle out of a scrap I had on hand and marked it's edge at four equidistant points so I could line it up consistently. Then I safety pinned it in place, and used it as a guide for my stitching.


Voila! Circular stitching made easy.