Sewing: September 2011 Archives
Back when I originally test drove the Hot Patterns Fringe Festival free download, I mentioned that one of the many visions I had for the pattern included elongating it and turning it into a running dress. Come along for the ride as I work on my custom tunic!
Before I did anything with the pattern, I wanted to transfer an image to my fabric. I am making this dress for a 1/2 marathon in Walt Disney World, and I love a little custom flair. Since the Haunted Mansion is my favorite, favorite, favorite ride, I decided to try adding an image from the ride's iconic wallpaper pattern to my lycra. If you've ever made the mistake of ironing lycra, you know it's a no-go (hello, melted mess!), so an iron-on transfer wouldn't work. I decided to try a different approach -- a Sharpie marker.
I used my opaque projector to project the image onto my fabric, and traced it out with a series of sloppy dashes. Since this maneuver takes place in the dark (with the exception of the light from the projector), what you end up with is not going to win any art awards.
After I filled in my design, it was much better. Hooray! Haunted Mansion! If you try this method at home, don't get discouraged if your fabric gets a little distorted or puckers during the process -- a little shot from the steamer smooths everything right out.
Perfect? No. Indentifiably dicey while I'm running in it? Absolutely not. Onward!
Now, on to the pattern ...
I pulled a pattern from my library that I have had for -- no joke -- 20 years. I like it because it's made for knits and has a nice swing to the skirt.
I set the Fringe Festival top pattern on my fabric, and then set the longer dress pattern on top of it. That's it! No magic tricks required. I just cut out the resulting shape, smoothing the transition lines.
I wanted to add a black stripe down each side of my running dress to add a little bit of sport detailing, and also to contrast with the periwinkle fabric I used. (Without the black, it was looking like stretchy scrubs -- NOT the look I wanted!) Once I had the four primary pieces cut, I eyeballed my additional side pieces, cutting them out of a black lycra.
I assembled my six pieces and checked for fit. I made a few minor contouring adjustments at this stage, because while the pattern fits fantastically as day wear, it fit a little differently over the shape created with a sports bra.
To finish the tunic, I cut a 2" piece of black lycra just a little shorter than the circumference of the neck opening. I stitched this piece into a closed loop, folded it in half lengthwise, and stitched it to the neck, applying gentle, consistent tension throughout. Once the neck binding was applied, I stitched a triangle shape at the front of the v-neck to keep that same v-shape for the facing.
Then sleeve binding was attached the same way I did the neck binding, but completely straight, since I didn't have to accommodate the v-shape.
I opted to serge the hem, and call this project done. Ready to race!
Are you thinking of a way to customize one of our free pattern downloads and transforming it with a totally fresh take? Do it! Be bold! For all you know, you may start a new trend.
Back to school time for me has always been synonymous with book covers. My brother and I would raid mom's paper bag stash and cut and color to our hearts content. Today, paper bags are a fond memory paired with remembering when we could eat Little Debbie's not gaining an ounce and run around outside for hours without even thinking of napping (not like to today when I yearn for naps). The reduced availability of paper bags means that we must turn to other mediums for our book cover materials and what else, but fabric, would be my first choice. It is also a better choice. It will last longer than paper, can be easily patched should it rip and can be easily coordinated to any book bag or jacket for the ULTIMATE back to school outfit.
My Fabulous Fabric Book cover is easy to make and here is what you will need to make one.
Materials:
½ yd of fabric (quilting cotton, linen, twill, etc) for exterior
¼ yd of fabric for lining
½ yd of fabric for bias tape binding or one package of prepared bias binding
Download your instruction sheet here.
When I was around 7 years old, my mom made me a really simple witch costume. I loved that thing. I mean LOVED. I wore it three years straight -- even though by the time I was 10, it was woefully short on me and the hat was tight. But I just adored my witchy raiment in a way I could never fully articulate to anyone. I just knew that when it came to Halloween, I wanted to be a witch.
You'd think that urge would pass as the years wore on, but it never did. Now that I'm an adult, I usually end up booked for several costumed events around Halloween, and I still make sure I dress as a witch for at least one of them every year. And every year, there has to be a new witch costume.
I really love princess ball gowns, and have amassed quite a collection of patterns for ballgowns and wedding gowns throughout the years. This year, I really yearned to make a froufy, poufy ballgown style witch to waltz through All Hallows Eve, so I selected a super girlie pattern, and set to work on my ballgown witch. For fabrics, I used a taffeta and overlaid it with an embellished tulle. Those rhinestones -- sigh! I adore them.
Here is the dress once it was assembled, but not embellished:
Now, I will share with you one of my absolute favorite (and easy) ways to make custom trim.
- First, cut strips on the bias. For this project, I used the same taffeta that I used for the dress, and cut them about 1.5" wide. I didn't worry about carefully marking out cut lines or anything -- I just eyeballed it.
- Next, use a simple running stitch to make a zig-zag pattern along the strips.
- Gather the strips along the running stitch, and you have a lovely scallop-edged trim! Didn't I promise you it was easy?
I applied the trim along the waistline, cuffs and skirt of my dress, incorporating beading into my stitching to add a little extra sparkle.
To add another element to my dress, I purchased a garland chain of black, glittery foliage at my local craft store, and clipped the leaves off. I used the same seed beads that I incorporated into my scalloped trim to tack my leaves into place, creating a sweep of trim across the bodice of the gown. I also tacked several leaves to one shoulder of my dress just above the puff sleeve.
I like to always have a little extra surprise here and there on a costume when I can manage it. For this gown, I attached a ruffle of glitter tulle to the lining, so that when I step into vehicles or up stairs, a little extra shimmer will show at my feet.
The finished dress, plus some detail shots of the sweep of black leaves:
If you, like me, still have a 7-year-old in your heart who loves to dress up, don't forget to look outside the costume pattern catalogue. Often, evening wear and bridal patterns can take a simple costume to a level of glamor and style that any witch would be proud of.
Now, I just need to make a matching hat with that divine Hot Patterns Good Witch/Bad Witch pattern from last year ... More sparkles, please!
Blazers are back big time this fall and I am on the band wagon. I love a good blazer but find that they can be a little confining after a few hours. Don't get me wrong, I love the trim fit and smooth lines they provide to a regular jeans and blouse outfit but the trimness can be wearing at the end of the day. But if you make your blazer out of double knit fabric (like our great selection) you can get the trim, clean lines look of a blazer but the feel of a cozy sweater (like pajama jeans for the top half). Knit blazers are hitting the shelves hard this season but they also carry a hefty price tag. Most of the stores featuring knit blazers don't offer them in the colors or details I want. So I made my own, to fit me and my wardrobe.
I used the Kwik Sew Knit blazer pattern (available at Kwik Sew in Misses and at Fabric.com in Plus size). I cut view B but did a pin fitting to make the jacket less boxy and more fitted. The pin fitting took a while, I had to keep going back and adjusting each piece to get the fit right and recut a few pieces (like the back neck) to keep the drape and shape true. It was fun because I have not had the opportunity to fit front panel seams before or to adjust the fit of a project so much. I ended up taking in the jacket a significant amount because the original is so boxy but the stretch of the fabric and the soft hand still make this a comfy (almost loungy) jacket to wear.
I added an additional button (the original features one) and added a bold cream knit trim to just the pockets. I considered trimming the lapel but when I put on the jacket for a final fitting with just the pockets, I fell in love as is. Just the hint of trim, coupled with the cream buttons, was perfect so I decided to stay my trimming urges. Lastly I hemmed the sleeves a little bit longer than suggested because either I have long arms or I like my sleeves a little longer.
Overall I am very surprised by how structured and not knit-like this blazer looks. I am also surprised by how comfy it truly is. My wardrobe has really taken a step up since I introduced this. Now I can continue with my t-shirt and jeans but look like a million bucks and not feel any different.
Check out these other great fabrics perfect for knit blazers:
You all know the iconic Pumpkin Bucket that serves as a rite of passage for halloweeners everywhere. In my many years of trick or treating, I have abused several of these buckets (aside from the standard pillowcases and shopping bags that also dot my Halloween timeline). As much as I love the Pumpkin Bucket as is, it just "won't do" or go with my daughter's fleece lion costume. You had better believe that if I am going to cover her shoes then I am going to cover her bucket to match. Though I didn't want to go over board (What!? Did that just come from my keyboard? Over board me? Ha) with the lion motif so I paid homage to one of her other faves, a butterfly. Though I did stay in the same color family and use the remaining fleece from her Lion Costume from Part 2: The Costume. The bucket cover was the most fun of her whole costume because it was unstructured. I constructed the bucket cover much like a lampshade slip cover but with elastic gathers at bottom and top. I measured around the widest part of the pumpkin for the width of my fleece rectangle (Cut this from the darker fleece color) and added 1 in. for the seam allowance. Then I measure the height and added 2 in. for a 1 in. hem at top and bottom. With these 2 measurements you can cut out your fleece cover.
Next, I drew a butterfly (if you don't feel comfortable drawing you can download a free coloring page and use it as a stencil) and cut it out of my light colored fleece. I added some details cut from a quilting cotton and zigzag stitched them onto the wings for detail and color. Then I pinned my butterfly onto the fleece cover and zig zagged around the edges. I also added some decorative stitching to outline the body of the butterfly. Next, with right sides together, pin and stitch the short ends of your cover. Then, fold over and pin your top and bottom hems and stitch in place leaving a 2-3 gap for the ½ in. elastic. Use a safety pin or bodkin to run your elastic (which should match the circumference of the top opening of your bucket) through the top and bottom hem casings. Stitch the 2 ends of your elastic together and stitch your hem casing closed. Slip your cover on and enjoy your matching treat bucket! You can embroider your child's name on the side opposing the appliqué or add another appliqué. Go crazy with your bucket and having fun decorating to match your costume!
P.S. Make sure your butterfly applique fit before cutting it out of your fleece. Don't get carried away with excitement like me and realize later that it is just a smidge too big. I am hand sewing those bits down as I write this.
You all know the iconic Pumpkin Bucket that serves as a rite of passage for halloweeners everywhere. In my many years of trick or treating, I have abused several of these buckets (aside from the standard pillowcases and shopping bags that also dot my Halloween timeline). As much as I love the Pumpkin Bucket as is, it just "won't do" or go with my daughter's fleece lion costume. You had better believe that if I am going to cover her shoes then I am going to cover her bucket to match. Though I didn't want to go over board (What!? Did that just come from my keyboard? Over board me? Ha) with the lion motif so I paid homage to one of her other faves, a butterfly. Though I did stay in the same color family and use the remaining fleece from her Lion Costume from Part 2: The Costume. The bucket cover was the most fun of her whole costume because it was unstructured. I constructed the bucket cover much like a lampshade slip cover but with elastic gathers at bottom and top. I measured around the widest part of the pumpkin for the width of my fleece rectangle (Cut this from the darker fleece color) and added 1 in. for the seam allowance. Then I measure the height and added 2 in. for a 1 in. hem at top and bottom. With these 2 measurements you can cut out your fleece cover.
Next, I drew a butterfly (if you don't feel comfortable drawing you can download a free coloring page and use it as a stencil) and cut it out of my light colored fleece. I added some details cut from a quilting cotton and zigzag stitched them onto the wings for detail and color. Then I pinned my butterfly onto the fleece cover and zig zagged around the edges. I also added some decorative stitching to outline the body of the butterfly. Next, with right sides together, pin and stitch the short ends of your cover. Then, fold over and pin your top and bottom hems and stitch in place leaving a 2-3 gap for the ½ in. elastic. Use a safety pin or bodkin to run your elastic (which should match the circumference of the top opening of your bucket) through the top and bottom hem casings. Stitch the 2 ends of your elastic together and stitch your hem casing closed. Slip your cover on and enjoy your matching treat bucket! You can embroider your child's name on the side opposing the appliqué or add another appliqué. Go crazy with your bucket and having fun decorating to match your costume!
P.S. Make sure your butterfly applique fit before cutting it out of your fleece. Don't get carried away with excitement like me and realize later that it is just a smidge too big. I am hand sewing those bits down as I write this.
How does a Twitter party work you may ask? Well, I'm here to explain the details.
Fabric.com and The Crafty Charlestonian Twitter Party
When: Tuesday, October 4th from 7pm-8pm EST
Where: #Fabric on Twitter
How: Participate by using the hashtag during the party hour and following host @TCCElizabeth and sponsor @Fabricdotcom
Prizes: What's a party without prizes, right?! We'll be giving away FIVE Fabric.com gift cards throughout the party!
Want to attend? Here's how to RSVP:
- Follow @TCCElizabeth and @Fabricdotcom on Twitter. Leave a comment with your twitter handle.
- RSVP to the event on Facebook
Want to earn extra entries?
- Follow this blog publicly using Google Friend Connect.
- Tweet this exact message: "Join me, @TCCElizabeth, and @Fabricdotcom for a #fabric Twitter #party on 10/4 @ 7pm. RSVP here: http://tinyurl.com/fabricparty" (Leave a comment with a LINK to your tweet)
- Re-Tweet Daily (leave a comment with a LINK to your tweet)
Wow! HotPatterns Bijoux Baby Jewelry Roll is just plain cool. I have long wanted a jewelry roll but have never found one worth the money at any of the big box stores. The fabric was never bold enough and the insides just didn't fit my needs. Boutique stores had a great selection but the prices were budget busting. I was floored when this pattern hit my inbox. I could not wait to get started and the hardest part was picking the fabric. I ended up going with a medium weight patterned linen (like the Timeless Treasures collection) and a textured medium weight home dec solid all pulled together with a light weight cotton in a tonal pattern. I was very pleased with the color play but more pleased with the finish project overall.
#1) The ring holder is just NEAT-O! I love it and don't think I have seen anything like it. I also love the button closure because I am a big fan of buttons. I don't have many rings (Only the cocktail rings displayed here) but maybe I will get some more just to keep on my ring holder.
#2) I am also a big fan of colored zippers so I loved adding even more color by using different colored 7 in. zippers here. The pockets are very roomy and perfect for some of my bigger pieces (large hoop earring are no problem)
#3) Since I prefer 1/2 in. seams, that is what I used and when it came time to fit the lining to the exterior, I added opposing pleats to the center section of the lining. I use these pleats to keep my earring backings from disappearing. They are also good for general keeping stuff in place should you find the need to dress on the go (in the car, bus, subway or a quick change after class).
The HotPatterns Bijoux Baby Jewelry Roll is a fast project and a GREAT gift idea for any of the ladies in your life. You could even swap the ribbon tie for a snap and expand the ring holder to fit watches and give it to the guys in your life as well.
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I remember when I was a wee thing planning my Halloween costume down to the last detail every year, except the shoes. I always forgot about my shoes till it was time for the big show. A little bit of disappointment was always there because those white sneakers just didn't work with my Punk Rocker outfit, or I just couldn't talk my mom into buying Pirate boots because my Mary Janes just didn't instill fear in the hearts of "land lubbers" everywhere. So this year I decided I could not have my little one ruining her Lion Costume with her Dora sneakers or Crocs. So I constructed a cute little tutorial to make matching shoes covers that can be easily embellished to match any costume with any fabric (just be sure to make a muslin of the cover if you are using a non-stretch fabric).
For each size covers you are making, I recommend using the biggest shoes in that size as your guide. Remember you can make the covers smaller if they are too big but not bigger if they are too small. You can add appliqués, bedazzle or paint these covers to blend in with any costume. Any fabric can be used but I recommend a fleece because it doesn't fray should you bypass hemming, it is warm and soft, it is easy to work with and stretches to fit different shoes. You can add other materials on top of the fleece if needed but fleece is a good base.
My little one loves her covers but we had some model/photographer difficulties during this photo shoot. Let's call it creative difficulties for the non-parents out there and for those with little ones of your own, I will say she is 2 and you will know what I mean. For the fastest way to get the covers on, slip them onto your child's foot, slide them up the leg with elastic in back, put on the shoe and then slide the cover into place tucking the elastic under the shoe. Please share your shoe cover photos on our facebook page!
Download your tutorial here
You can find Parts 1 and 2 of our Child's Halloween Costume Series below:
For some reason I cannot fathom a useful tool has fallen by the wayside of late, the pencil case. I, myself, have stopped using them but no longer. I am tired of searching my purse, knitting bag and diaper bag for the elusive pen or pencil. I am sure that your school age children are no different. Who doesn't want a one stop shop for all their writing utensils, in an easy to tote package that can be identified by touch and grabbed with ease. I DO! So in honor of September and the Back to School Season, I have crafted an easy but super chic and fun lined pencil case. These pencils cases make great gifts for teachers, neighbors, September birthday party gifts and quick n' easy Christmas gifts. You can also whip one up to use as a clutch!
All you will need is:
¼ yd of lightweight cotton in 2 colors or prints
One ½ in. button
One spool of coordinating thread.
Download your pattern here and get cracking. In no time you will have pencil cases for your kids, your purse and maybe even just a few for fun (makeup brushes, dry erase markers, crayons to go).
I'm a firm believer that the difference between a good project and a great one is usually just a matter of detailing. To illustrate this point, I offer up one of my costume projects from this year: an 18th century lady's riding habit.
When I first envisioned this project, I knew I wanted it to stay feminine. Women's riding habits in the 1700s were made exactly the same as men's garments, so choosing a girly color like pink was an easy way to keep the look soft. (I know, I know, I make everything in pink. That's not likely to stop anytime soon.) I went with a cotton velvet for the jacket, because who doesn't love velvet? It's yummy and has a rich, buttery look. For the vest, I selected a flocked home dec fabric in a large floral print. I love how the bold black and white contrasts with the pink velvet. To complete the look, I used a striped taffeta I had in my stash. It was one of those great deals I got from the $1.95 section a while back, knowing I'd eventually find the perfect use for it. Hooray for stashing!
Now, as you can see from this in-progress shot, even once the costume was mostly assembled, it looked sort of anemic. Enter the magic of trim. Metal buttons dressed up the vest and jacket, but braided trim was really needed to bring it all together. I decided to have a little fun customizing mine. I started with a taupe colored Expo braided trim, and then dyed it. What makes this trim fun to dye is the fact that it has a cotton background base with a rayon overlay. Because rayon and cotton take dye very differently -- rayon tends to grab pigment aggressively, whereas cotton does not -- I knew I'd end up with a unique two-toned effect.
To do the actual dyeing, I used a large GladWare container.
I filled it about 1/4 of the way with hot, hot water, and then dissolved the
dye into it.
Once the dye had completely dissolved, I added more hot water until the container was about 2/3 of the way full. Then, I pre-moistened my trim, and dropped it in, making sure all of it was submerged in the dye mixture.
I popped the lid on and very carefully and gently shook the container to disperse the color across the trim. I HIGHLY recommend doing this in a sink, as I did have some sloshy escaping of the dye mixture. I let the whole shebang soak for about four hours, occasionally giving it a gentle rocking shake. I rinsed the trim about four times, making sure I eventually got it to a point where the water ran completely clear. Since I was planning to apply my dyed trim to a light-colored fabric, I wanted to ensure that no color rubbing or bleeding would occur.
Once the trim had dried thoroughly, I applied it to the coat
and the hat for the costume, and instantly, the whole outfit felt much more
"real." The hat also got a dose of ribbon and a cameo pendant I'd been hoarding for a while.
As you can see, trim -- basic things like braiding and
buttons -- can completely transform a costume, and the same is true for
day wear. So, when you're planning your next project, be sure to pick out some
good trims and hardware to make it something special.
So our costume is complete and a huge hit but it was a tricky week of sewing, readjusting and hiding from curious eyes that once they have spotted a Lion Costume can't wait to wear said lion costume. I made my little girls Kwik Sew Lion Costume from dark and light purple fleece and it is so soft and delicious. The fleece was a pleasure to sew with my walking foot. Of course, I did have to stop every half hour of sewing and de-lint my machine but it was sooo worth it. Now for the breakdown:
The pattern went together very easily for the most part but I did have trouble with the paws. My work around was to trace the paw pattern piece onto another piece of paper and then cut out the paw pieces from the fleece, not using the sew-on method recommended in the pattern. Then cut out the paw pieces from the traced paper and use it as a stencil/placement guide and with fabric glue (or you can use a glue stick), tack down the pattern pieces. Then zig zag around the edges of paw pieces. This eliminated the paper mess with little bits of tear-able paper under every stitch and made it much easier to cut out the paw pieces since you are doing it before hand instead of afterward. I also hemmed the bottom of each leg so I could let them down further down the road instead of the elastic. This also makes it easier for my little one to get into the costume herself. I added a zipper in a contrasting color to make it easier for her to find and zip up. Lastly, I assembled the fringe on the tail and sewed it on after I sewed and turned the tail. The fringe was too bulky using the pattern assembly. I hand sewed it in place which made it much easier, no broken needles and the finish was just as neat as the original. I am going to go back and lightly stuff the tail and add some pipe cleaners so I can shape the tail for Trick or Treating so keep it off the ground and give it some life.
Some other modifications I considered were adding the bow from the bunny variation and some flat piping around the chest piece. The reason I decided against them was that the costume was so stinking cute that I didn't think it needed them and would have been lost on the costume.
Stay tuned for Parts 3 & 4 which will feature easy shoe covers to make your costume flawless and a great Pumpkin Pail Cover to match your costume and complete your Halloween Look. Find Part 1 of our Child Costume series here and check out our great Fleece section for your kid's color combination dreams-come-true!
