Recently in Sewing Category
I know a lot of people dread zippers, but there's really nothing to fear. Once you figure out a method that works for you, zippers become just another seam, and you'll soon find your wardrobe growing lickety-split.
My method takes some of the usual dress assembly steps out of order. (Note: This approach assumes you're putting the zipper into the back of your dress.)
First, I prepare the two back sections of dress. Often, dress pattern instructions will have you assemble the bodice first, then the skirt, then attach the two, and THEN insert the zipper. By assembling the back sections first, I set myself up to set the zipper into a flat piece, rather than trying to fiddle with a garment that's more fully formed. It just makes it a bit easier. If you use the approach, you'll then need to assemble the front of the dress before you join everything together at the shoulder and sides.
Then, I stitch the back pieces together along the center back. I use the longest stitch possible for the section where the zipper will go, and then I switch to a shorter, normal assembly stitch for the rest of the seam. The photo below shows the change in stitch length at the blue mark I made earlier.
Next, I press the seam open. I like to give it a good hard press to ensure my creases will be sharp once my zipper is set in.
OK, we're getting close to show time! Once my fabric has cooled from the iron's heat, I use my seam ripper to gently open up the top of the seam -- about 1.5" to 2" works just fine. You want to make sure that if the top edge of the zipper is lined up with the top edge of your fabric, you'll have about an inch of tooth area open. I align my slightly-opened zipper with the edge of my opened seam so the teeth match up with the creased edge.
I set the zipper and dress back under the foot just as I was holding it in the photo above. You may have noticed there haven't been any pins in these photos -- I don't use them, even for zippers! I find I can work much more quickly and smoothly without them. I carefully start stitching the zipper in place, sewing far enough down the zipper that I'll have room to pull the zipper tab up without getting in the way of my stitching.
Once I've cleared enough length, I lift my presser foot and pull the tab up, and continue to sew the zipper into place down along the center back seam.
To keep the zipper centered, I usually keep the dress piece rolled (sometimes wadded) in my left hand, and I periodically lift things up to make sure the teeth are still lines up with the center of the seam. This is one of those things you get better and better at the more you do it. 
Once I've cleared the metal zipper stop, I turn the fabric to stitch across the zipper -- I usually backstitch to make sure this cross piece is strong -- and then I turn the corner again to make the return trip up the opposite side of the seam. Because the zipper is already in place and I don't need to check its alignment, the second side is much faster than the first.
Once I near the top of the zipper on this side, I often open the seam up a little more to pull the zipper pull back out of the way.
With the zipper opened so the pull is no longer creating an obstacle, I finish up the second side of the zipper, taking care to keep the fabric aligned with the zipper teeth so the creased edges will abut when the zipper's closed.
After the stitching's done, I quickly open up the rest of the stitching that covers the zipper.
And that's that! Zipper is in and I'm free to finish my dress. Whether your pattern calls for a facing or a bound edge at the neck opening, you'll likely need a hook and eye at the top of the zipper to keep things neat and square.
Is your zipper method similar to mine? Do you have another trick? Let us know!
You will love this month's Blog of the Month so much: Suzy Cucumber. I stumbled upon it while doing research on some interesting knots. I found Aimee's blog because she had some knot pillows which intrigued me so I clicked. Then my jaw dropped: I was amazing by the amount and variety of projects she had done and written about. I'm talking sewing, upholstery, painting, embroidery, hand lettering and rug making and that is just the tip of the iceberg. Seriously, you will love this blog. Not only is Aimee great to get you inspired and off your butt but she will give you some great ideas for something new to get your excited to craft again.
I am really thrilled about her 2012 project in which she will do a project from each of her library of craft books (she has over 200). The variety seems to be a full spectrum of crafting from Ukrainian egg decorating (Picture above) to tabletop rugs. Here is a list of just of few of the craft book subject she has covered to get you interested:
· Paper Mache
· Book and Journal Making
· "Sew What Skirts" (I love this book!)
· Crayon Roses (GORGEOUS)
· Needle Felting
· Decoupage
I only linked a few because I want you all to really check out Aimee's blog. It is incredible and fulfilling. She is a Renaissance woman and I know you all will love this blog. If one subject is not for you, you are sure to find another that is. I applaud you, Aimee, and keep it up!
All pictures are from Suzycucumber.blogspot.com
Pets wearing clothes in one of those polarizing topics. Some people think it's hilarious to put clothes on their pets, while others think it's incredibly cruel. My stance on the topic is in the middle -- if the pet is OK with it, so am I, but it breaks my heart to see an animal struggle or thrash around in fear or discomfort.
However, there are some cat breeds that actually benefit from having a good shirt. These include the hairless Sphynx and the curly-haired Rex breeds. Because the fur on these guys is either missing or less dense than your average house cat, they lose their body heat easily. Their exposed skin also puts them at risk for sunburn when they fall asleep too long in a sunbeam. Seriously, you do NOT want to deal with a cat with a sunburn.
I am lucky enough to have a Devon Rex named Mr. Burns in my brood -- so I'm familiar with the constant heat-seeking of a chilly feline. To help him out, I decided to try my hand at making him a shirt. Luckily, Mr. Burns is one of those rare cats that doesn't mind wearing clothes a bit.
First, I took his measurements and drew up a plan. (I am keenly aware that he's a butterball. We're working on it.) I measured him around the widest part of his belly, across his back from one shoulder to another, and the length from his neck to almost the base of his tail.
Note that my sketch for the top and bottom pieces is woefully off, proportionally speaking.
To start cutting on the fleece I selected, I first cut a piece 11 inches wide and 13 inches long. The grain runs along the 13 inch length so the piece stretches across the 11 inch span. I folded the piece in half so I could cut the fabric according to my measurements and keep it symmetrical.
To start shaping the piece, I first cut a curve along the bottom. The shirt will be longer on the cat's back and a little shorter on the belly, so the cat can groom as normal without getting a mouthful of fleece.
Next, I made a cut from the widest part of the piece at the bottom, angling in to the narrowest measurement at the top. For Burnsy, I wanted an 8 inch width across the back of the neck. Because cats' necks are very delicate -- much more so than a dog's -- it's better to cut the neck wide and then take it in a little after a fitting than to have it too tight.
Then I cut semicircles for the leg holes. 
To cut the belly of the shirt, I cut another rectangle, this one 9 inches wide, and folded it in half as I did the first rectangle. Then I aligned the folded back piece with the underpiece and used it as a cutting guide.Not that the folded edge of the back piece sits (folded) and inch back from the folded edge of the underpiece. 
After the two pieces were cut, I just joined them at the sides with the serger, then I cut two pieces of soft rayon knit each 6 inches by 2 inches, and used those to make mini sleeves that finished the arm holes. Since I'm working with fleece, I'm not going to add bulk by hemming the top or bottom. Here's the shirt laid out flat:
OK, time to fit it on Mr. Burns! Forgive the fuzziness in these images. Anyone who has tried to take photos of a pet knows that they rarely cooperate. As you can see, this shirt run a little tight across the upper back -- the arm holes need to be cut wider. 
Mr. Burns didn't seem to bothered, and trotted all over the house in his new shirt, but the fit did bother me, and it did limit his range of motion slightly -- a big no-no in pet clothes.
This shot of him walking from the side really shows how much it's pulling around his front leg.
So, I decided to try a second shirt, this one out of a lightweight cotton knit. For this version, I also skipped the sleeves and cut the arm holes wider. I am happy to report a much better fit.
As you can see, I need to take in the neck a bit or add a small amount of elastic. But first I'll have to wrestle it off of Mr. Burns, who seems to be enjoying his new finery quite a bit!
**Disclaimer- These are my opinions and are by no means a judgment on Moms who choose disposable or any other diaper method. I have been known to employ disposables from time to time. **
I have LONG wanted in on this gig since I love cloth diapers so much. Not only do I love them for their Green value but also their comfort, style and convenience. The brand I choose for my first born were BumGenius One Size. I choose them because I need only buy one size which would grow with my baby. I could pack them up and go. When they were spoiled, I could fold them up and the mess would be contained inside. I could adjust their size as well as adjust their absorbency. The list goes on...
However, as colorful and super cute as they were, I still longed to make my own with prints that would match my daughter's personality, wardrobe or just something with a little funk. But I was intimidated. It just seemed so tricky. Plus I had no idea what materials were involved and where to purchase them all. Well, none of those reasons is much of an issue now. Fabric.com's Diaper Central is a one stop diaper fabric purchasing center and we offer several patterns to make your own diaper, I chose Favorite Things "The Nappies Pattern" and decided to modify them to be One Size just like my beloved BumGenius.
** Prewash your fabric as you would wash your cloth diapers**
First I choose my fabric: for the print outside, I used quilting cotton but you can also use minky, flannel or any decorative material (Note- It must be washable, these are going in the wash at least 1-2/week). Then I added in some PUL- which is the waterproof but breathable layer that gets sandwiched between the decorative outside and the super soft and comfy lining fabric. I went with plain white because I knew I would be using a decorative print on the outside but if you just want a solid color check out our wide PUL color selection. Then I chose my lining fabric which was a diaper flannel but you could also use cotton flannel, terry, cotton or hemp (Hemp is the most absorbent for heavy wetters). Do not use microfiber for the lining. It will irritate baby's skin. Then following the directions I cut out my pattern pieces.
Since I am making my diaper One Size, I choose a size large because it was the size closest to my BumGenius at its largest size. After finishing step 1 I added my rise adjustment snaps (these make the diaper One Size). I added one row of 3 male snaps 1 in. below where the Velcro would sit and 1 row of 3 female snaps 1.5 in. below the male row, and another row of female snaps 1 in. below the first female row. Each snap was spaced 2.25 in. in each row. With the middle snaps centered on the diaper, I used my Babyville Snap Pliers and Snaps in Playful Green/Orange. Then I continued following the directions to complete my diaper.
One important note is to be sure you use the 3/8'' swimwear elastic as instructed by the pattern. This will make your diaper function better but the size is just right to fit in the seam allowance. Also, when stitching on your elastic, I used some binder clips to keep my elastic in place about 2 in. above the pattern mark. I started sewing on the mark but clipping the elastic above the mark really helped me keep my hands free for guiding the fabric and stretching the elastic. Pull your elastic to about 90-95 of its capacity. This will make sure your get the stretch you need but won't make it super difficult to guide. After your elastic is sewn, clip off the excess elastic. A little waste makes for much ease. I also used these same clips to keep all my pieces together as I sewed them up instead of pin because I didn't want any holes in my waterproof PUL which might cause leaks later.
Finally you can see in my pictures the before elastic comparison to my BumGenius Diapers
And after. Pretty close huh?!
Finally, I would love to show your this cute little diaper on a equally cute little bottom but we will all have to wait for the fall before that happens. Also, I don't know the gender yet but just loved this cowboy print so much that even if I have a girl she will be rocking western style. Have fun with your print choices!
I was window shopping over at my favorite store, Anthropologie, a few weeks ago and found this top and knew it was destined to be mine- But not for $58! A quick look at the close-ups confirmed that is was a very stylized version of a pillowcase top with a banded hem. Done, case closed, let's get to work. I, being 5 mo. pregnant, decided to craft my version from knit to make it last the summer. I tell you I feel really pretty and myself in this top (which is hard to accomplish, considering I just popped).Here's how to make your own. You can easily make this top from a woven or a knit.
1 yd of Knit fabric (you can use interlock or jersey just make sure it has at least 20% stretch across the grain)
Walking foot on your standard machine.
Measure and cut your fabric pieces according to my handy cheat sheet that you can download below (click on the picture to save and print).
Here's an example of the main panel measurement: widest measurement is 38 in. / 2= 19 in. + 1 in. (seam allowance)= 20 in. cutting width
Length from shoulder to hip bone is 22 in. + 4 in. = 26 in. cutting length
From the remaining fabric cut a 2 in. wide strip by at least 60 in. in length for the drawstring tie at the top.
All stitches are
assumed zig zag stitches unless otherwise noted
Mark your main panels 6-8 in. from the top on each side; above the mark is your arm hole and below is your side seam. Stitch your sides together (RS facing) starting at these marks. Fold down seam allowance in your arm hole and topstitch in place.
To make the front keyhole, cut an 8 in. by 2 in wide piece of knit for the facing and pin it the front main panel of your top as shown on the cheat sheet, matching centers (RS facing). Using a narrow stitch, stitch close to your center line on one side, stopping ½ from the bottom of the facing, stitch across your center and stitch back up the other side of your center using the same spacing (try to stitch between 1/8 and ¼ in. from the center). Clip down your center line and turn your facing to the inside of your front main panel. Turn under the raw edges of the facing, pin in place and topstitch around the edges of your facing to secure in place using a straight stitch.
Make top ruffle and casing: on the front and back, fold the top of your top down 1/2 in. and pin or baste, fold down another 1.5 in and pin in place, topstitch along fold using straight stitch. Stitch another line 3/4 in. above the topstitching using a straight stitch.
Stitch your hem bands together at the sides and fold in half, matching raw edges, WS facing, and pin to the bottom edge of your top, stretching the hem band as needed to fit. Stitch around hem band.
To make the draw string, fold draw string in half lengthwise, RS facing and stitch down the length. Turn draw string right side out and feed through casing using a safety pin or bodkin starting at one side of the keyhole on the front of your top and finishing on the other side. Knit your drawstring at both ends.
Congrats you are DONE! Enjoy your Keyhole Pillowcase top in wovens as well as knits, just cut your hem band on the bias for a little stretch around your hips. I love this top in solids as well as medium or small scale prints. Polka Dots are a must for this style!
P.S. because this is knit it makes a great maternity top!
To start with, pull your shirt -- inside out -- over your sewing machine. A unisex size Medium is just about perfect.
To make marking easier, you might want to pin the shoulders of your shirt so the neck opening sits higher than the top of the machine.
Next, mark the curve of your machine where you'll cut and sew the top of the cover. I used a sharpie so it's easy to see in photos.
Pull your shirt off your machine, and clip along your marked line. I usually taper my curve so it ends down at the bottom of the armscye.
Here's the trimmed top of the former shirt/almost cover.
To true up the top and make it symmetrical, fold your fabric in half and clip your curve so both sides are ever.
Next, just stitch that top clipped edge closed.I usually use my serger.
Pull your stitched cover over the machine, and mark the handle width. You'll clip an opening from one marking to the other to let the handle through. I know what you're thinking. "Why don't you just leave an opening in the seam?" You can totally do it that way if you prefer, but I find that in the course of being carried around, the seams tend to start to split open. This way, the seam stays intact.
You also need to mark the point where the cover hits the table or other sewing surface once it's pulled down.
Use that lower edge mark as a guide, and fold up the remaining piece of shirt. The mark will be inside the crease of the fold.
I make a reverse cuff by folding the hem back down. This will reinforce the top edge of what's about to become a series of pockets.
Stitch channels into the folded lower edge to create pockets. You can customize the width of your pocket channels to match the items you most often take with you when you sew on the go. I like to make one wide enough to hold the foot and power cord, and the rest varying sizes to hold spare needles, thread, snips, trims and whatever else I need.Here we are, loaded up and ready to go! Who wants to host a sewing get together?
The appeal of the Kwik Sew Bohemian Short Sleeved Dress pattern is its simplicity. Since I love a quick project that I can make in a night to wear the next day, this one sparked my interest. The breezy feel of it was also a draw because it looked cool and comfortable -- vital in any Atlanta girl's wardrobe once May arrives.
For my first version of this pattern, I chose a zebra printed ITY. It whipped together like a dream, and it is beyond comfy. The pattern itself really couldn't be easier. The elastic at the neckline and sleeves is inset before you close those seams, which makes it a breeze to assemble -- easy as pie to make sure your elastic hasn't twisted.
I am short -- 5'3" -- and I have a full bust, and I felt like the neckline dipped a little to low to wear without a camisole or tank top underneath it.
This dress is a packing dream -- especially in ITY. You can easily roll it and toss it in a bag. It takes up no space and doesn't wrinkle. Also, because the ITY is lightweight and glides on the body, it's great for layering. I paired it with a denim vest and really loved the combo.
For my second version, I used a printed rayon blend rib knit, and I cut the neckline about 1.5" higher than the pattern called for. This gave me better coverage through the bust line.
Rayon blend knits are always so, so soft. This version is so comfy and cozy that it made me think this would be a great pattern to make up as a nightgown. That's like two patterns in one! Score!
While many of this seasons
dress are considered "billowy and flowy" and trapeze and maxi are the
hot new trends, it follows that you need a great belt to really pull off these
looks. The extra fabric that adds femininity and style to these styles also
needs a bit of the masculine touch to cinch in your waist, add definition or a
needed detail to polish your look. Many of the belts I have seen and love are
the rope style. They follow the vogue of Kristl and Suzie's nautical post.
These belts were inspired by popular (and expensive) designer pieces but you
can make them for less and make them your own.
Mambo Braided Belt:
You will need 1 skein of Martha
Stewart for Lion Brand Mambo Yarn and one fastener of your choice.
Start by evenly dividing
your Mambo skein into 4 strands and braiding them according to the illustration
below- Do not knot at either end, zig zag over the live strands to secure.
Cut you Mambo Braid to fit your waist minus 1-2 inch to accommodate the fastener. To finish and fasten add the fastener of your choice. You can sew your sewn ends to 2 long lengths (24 in. or longer) of 1-2 in. wide ribbon. You can add a buckle or you can make a snap clasp to secure the 2 ends.
6 Strand Rope Belt
You will need 6 times your waist measurement in Size 2 (1/4 in) cotton cording and a 4 in. wide by 24-48 in. length of quilting cotton (the length depends on how long you want your sash to be. Mine is a short, small bow of 24 in.). Fold your coding so you have 6 strands with both cut ends at one end with one loop and 3 loops at the other end. Zig zag over each end to secure. To make your sash, fold your quilting cotton along the length WS facing and using ¼ in. seam, stitch down one long end and across one short end. Turn and press. Fold under the open end and topstitch closed.
Fold the sash in half and stitch one end of your rope belt (the end with the cut ends) to your sash in the center. Wrap your belt around your waist and slip one end of the sash through the other end of your belt and tie closed.
Obsession is a bit of an overstatement (just a bit) when it comes to my desire to try out our new Stretch Ruffle Knit Fabric. I loved it from first sight and once I had it in hand it was even more delicious! The small ruffles are just right; a slight shake here or shimmy there and the whole fabric dances. It would be perfect for turning any ordinary project into something wonderful! I set to work right away on a simple little dress for my little one. I envisioned something she could run around and play in but also wear out, should we be brave enough to take her "someplace nice", and family pictures. What I ended up with was so much more.
Let me start by saying that there is a fair amount of stretch to this fabric which makes it ideal for kids clothing. While this dress looked so fancy on my daughter it did not feel fancy (to me fancy kids clothing= uncomfortable). She loved wearing it. I loved how RIDICULOUSLY easy it was to make. The dress features 2 gores in the back for extra swing and extra running leg room plus 'Y' shaped straps that fasten in the back with Velcro. This makes adjusting for a tank top underneath or slipping on over a swimsuit simple. I have also found that should your child tend toward tantrums when it comes time to undress, just a quick swipe of the fingers and the dress is off!
To make your own follow below:
Materials
1 yd Stretch Ruffle Knit fabric
¼ yd of Quilting Cotton
6 in. of 3/4in. wide Velcro
Cut a rectangle that is 15-18 in. long (depending on how tall your child is or how long you want the dress. Mine was 18 in. for a 3yr old) by the width of her chest. Also cut 2 gores that are the same length as your rectangle but 1 in. wide at the top and 4 in. wide at the bottom. Cut 25 in. of bias tape from the quilting cotton as well as two 4.5 in. by 8 in straps and one 4.5 in. by 6 in. strap.
Begin by joining the gores to each side of the rectangle, RS together and stitch in place using a zig zag stitch. Then join the 2 gores together making a tube. Stitch a basting stitch around the top of the tube and slightly gather the top of your dress since the added gores have made it wider than the chest measurement. Gather until your dress is back to the chest measurement. Pin your bias tape to the top of your dress (RS facing) and stitch in place using a zigzag stitch. Fold over your bias tape and stitch in place using a small zig zag stitch or longer straight stitch.
Fold one of your straps in half along its length and press, open up and fold each edge toward the center crease and press in place (you are folding it in quarters). Fold along the center crease and press again and pin along the open edge. Stitch the strap closed using a ¼ in. seam and then added more decorative stitching at ¼ in. intervals. Repeat for the remaining straps.
Cut your Velcro into two 2 in. length and pull apart. On one long strap pin and stitch one female Velcro piece, pin and stitch the male piece onto the other long strap. On the shorter strap, pin and stitch one female piece on one side and pin and stitch one male piece on the other side. Mark your long strap placement by trying the dress on your child or using another dress as a guide stitch in place using 2 lines of stitching. Center your short strap on the back gores and stitch in place using 2 lines of stitching to secure.
You're done. The Velcro not only makes for easy dressing and undressing but allows you to adjust the angle of the straps for maximum comfort. This dress makes a great swimsuit cover up or picnic play dress- if she spills ketchup on it no need to worry about how to keep it out of her hair as your pull the dress off, just release the straps and step out!
I was inspired by this blog post I found on Pinterest of a recreation of a Banana Republic T-shirt with a braided neckline. I loved it however, both the recreation and the original were loose fitting in order to create the braided neckline. I didn't want a loose shirt, I have had enough. I wanted to create the braided neckline with a fitted or semi fitted Tee (Heck, any fit that you prefer). I also didn't like the ruching-gathering that was the natural bi-product of the recreation tutorial. So I decided to find a way of adding the braiding without the extras I didn't want. Here's how to do it.
First cut out your chosen t-shirt pattern but don't assemble. From the remaining fabric cut a 4 in wide strip that is 2.5 times the length you need your finished braid to be (Ex: for a 15 in. braid, I cut a 38 in. long strip). Layout your strip and cut a widthwise slit every 2 in. down the length leaving .5 in. on each side.
Next, we start braiding. Start at the right end, take the top most loop (there are now 2 parts to this strip, the slits and the loops. The loops are the sections of fabric in between each slit) and pull it up a bit to create a void.
Take the second loop and pull it up though the void you just created and pull it back down again.
Now take the 3rd loop and pull it up through the 2nd and pull it back down. Continue in this pattern until you have used up all your loops.
Secure each end with a quick little zig zag stitch. Make the braid a little longer than needed so the zig zag stitch will be hidden in each shoulder seam (you can always stretch it a bit if it is not quite long enough).
Pull the braid a bit to shape the braid and pull all the loops into place.
Pin the braid onto your neckline, overlapping the braid over the neck edge a bit and leaving the zig zag stitch hidden in the shoulder seam allowance. Stitch in place using a medium straight stitch worked down the middle of the braid. Next stitch another line about ¼ in. away from the center stitch line on the inside edge of the neckline (Not closest to the neck edge) tucking in the edges of the braid as you go. This final stitch line will keep the raw edges hidden and keep the braid from rolling to the wrong side of the t-shirt. Add some binding to the neck edge of the back t-shirt piece.
Assemble your t-shirt according to your pattern.
Feel free to add more than one braided piece to your neckline or at the waist. You can experiment with the size of your loops by cutting slits every 1 in or 3 in. this will make your braid more delicate or chunkier depending on the look and where you are placing your braided trim.
I used our Rayon Slub Jersey Knit Fabric. It is soft and has a night light drape. I recommend a jersey knit because the natural curl with hide any raw edges of the braid trim.
