this Spring/Summer is all about color, color and more color! Color is everywhere from bright candy colored denim, to eye-popping neon colors and outrageously bold prints, there is just no way to escape the color explosion! So what better way to show off this of the moment fashion color trend than with a head turning nail polish color worn on your toes or fingers. Who would of thought that nail polish would become the must have fashion accessory of the moment? But why not - it's inexpensive, fun and versatile and an easy way to play with fashion trends and show off your own unique style. The options for nail polish are truly endless - you can get it with sparkles, crackled, rhinestones, metallic, marbled, iridescent and the list goes on and on. It is really up to you how simple or extravagant you choose to go with your nail color. And don't worry if you don't like the color, the beautiful thing about nail polish is that you can easily wipe it off and start over! So the next time you are in a fashion slump pull out your favorite nail polish and get to painting! Check out our brightly colored toes showcased in our sassiest summer sandals for some style inspiration!

If the thought of knitting in warm weather just doesn't get your excited but like many knitters you can't seem to quit the habit, consider small projects as a way to bridge the gap until the fall. Small projects fit into cute little summer bags, don't cover your lap and offer quicker turn around. A quick turnaround is key because as summer progresses and fills with activities you have less focused time to dedicate to big projects with lots of instructions. Smaller projects can be knit in a few hours and don't involve staying mentally centered on one technique or project for long, making it easier if you get interrupted or need to take frequent breaks (soccer games, doctors' appt, carpooling, etc).

I used the pattern Kim's Hat from Last Minute Knitted Gifts by Jovelle Hoverson, one of my favorite hat patterns. This is the garter brim version; however I flipped mine inside out so the purl bumps are on the outside. Using the garter brim version but flipping it inside out gives me a look similar to the Land of Nod Chickadee Hat I posted a few weeks ago but keeps the brim from rolling as it would if the hat was knit entirely with Stockingette stitch. This hat is worked on the WS then turned inside out to the RS. I knit the brim in Lion Brand Baby's First Honey Bee then changed to Lion Brand Wool Ease Chunky Fisherman (I chose a wool blend for the majority of the hat because my hat will be worn in fall to winter) but you can stick with Baby's First for a cotton based hat. I switch colors on a knit row so you could see the color change on the purl side but if you don't want to see the color change do it on a purl row in the brim. The color change will face you but, remember, the WS is facing you right now.  I finished off my hat with a cute little tassel, wound around 3 of my fingers using about 3-4 yds of yarn. Then tie to secure and clip to even up the tassel. Tie onto the top of your hat. The duplicate stitch vertical row and brim whip stitch will be added later once the gender is known.  

Call me crazy but of all the detail work in knitting (most of which I detest) I love picking up stitches. It is a reason that I cannot narrow down but I like it, I enjoy it and I am pretty darn good at it. Picking up stitches is an acquired skill but it is based on the foundation of knitting; it is not like not like learning to knit itself. Learning to pick up stitches is similar to learning to drive in the rain. It is a lot to take in at first but since you already know how to drive you are just pushing your boundaries a little. Learning the nuances of picking up stitches will help you apply this skill to any gauge or any yarn fiber so you can pick up and knit with confidence. Picking up stitches is great for button bands, hem details, or simply adding details you didn't realize you needed originally. I used this instance when I knit my daughter's first hat. It was an undemanding ribbed brim hat that I thought would stay in place well on her (then) 9 mo. old head. And it did until she was 12 mo. old and decided hats weren't for her anymore. With the temperature outside falling, I picked up some stitches on the brim of the hat and added ear flaps with ties to keep the hat on her head. It worked great. You can add length to your socks after binding off, length to sleeves or a scarf or even add a ruffle trim to your favorite cardigan.

First with the WS of your project facing you, begin picking up your stitches by sliding one needle under 2 loops (if you only pick up 1 loop it will pull away from the knitting by accessing the slack from neighboring loops, by picking up 2 loops you anchor your picked up stitches so it won't put too much pressure on one stitch). When picking up stitches from a bound off edge I like to use the 'V' shape the bind off makes and slide my needle under both lines of the 'V'.

Slide your second needle into the same space as your first and make a loop with your yarn and slide it over your right needle and pull it through using your left needle to help the 'V' in place. Slide your left needle under the next 'V' moving to the left. Insert your right needle and wrap your yarn and pull through.

Above is a look from the WS. You can see the white purl bump against the yellow.

Above is a look from the RS. You can see the loops continue from the row above. From the RS, you can't see that the white row was picked up, it looks like a continuation.

Continue until you have enough stitches then turn your work and continue knitting. It is important that your pick up your stitches from the correct direction. Always pick up with the WS facing up (or facing you) because you will be picking up and knitting the first row with means the purl bump will be in the back. If the RS is facing you, then the purl bump with be on the RS and the picked up stitches will be obvious. 

**Disclaimer- These are my opinions and are by no means a judgment on Moms who choose disposable or any other diaper method. I have been known to employ disposables from time to time. **

I have LONG wanted in on this gig since I love cloth diapers so much. Not only do I love them for their Green value but also their comfort, style and convenience. The brand I choose for my first born were BumGenius One Size. I choose them because I need only buy one size which would grow with my baby. I could pack them up and go. When they were spoiled, I could fold them up and the mess would be contained inside. I could adjust their size as well as adjust their absorbency. The list goes on...

However, as colorful and super cute as they were, I still longed to make my own with prints that would match my daughter's personality, wardrobe or just something with a little funk. But I was intimidated. It just seemed so tricky. Plus I had no idea what materials were involved and where to purchase them all. Well, none of those reasons is much of an issue now. Fabric.com's Diaper Central is a one stop diaper fabric purchasing center and we offer several patterns to make your own diaper, I chose Favorite Things "The Nappies Pattern" and decided to modify them to be One Size just like my beloved BumGenius.

** Prewash your fabric as you would wash your cloth diapers**

First I choose my fabric: for the print outside, I used quilting cotton but you can also use minky, flannel or any decorative material (Note- It must be washable, these are going in the wash at least 1-2/week). Then I added in some PUL- which is the waterproof but breathable layer that gets sandwiched between the decorative outside and the super soft and comfy lining fabric. I went with plain white because I knew I would be using a decorative print on the outside but if you just want a solid color check out our wide PUL color selection. Then I chose my lining fabric which was a diaper flannel but you could also use cotton flannel, terry, cotton or hemp (Hemp is the most absorbent for heavy wetters). Do not use microfiber for the lining. It will irritate baby's skin. Then following the directions I cut out my pattern pieces.

Since I am making my diaper One Size, I choose a size large because it was the size closest to my BumGenius at its largest size. After finishing step 1 I added my rise adjustment snaps (these make the diaper One Size). I added one row of 3 male snaps 1 in. below where the Velcro would sit and 1 row of 3 female snaps 1.5 in. below the male row, and another row of female snaps 1 in. below the first female row. Each snap was spaced 2.25 in. in each row. With the middle snaps centered on the diaper, I used my Babyville Snap Pliers and Snaps in Playful Green/Orange. Then I continued following the directions to complete my diaper.

One important note is to be sure you use the 3/8'' swimwear elastic as instructed by the pattern. This will make your diaper function better but the size is just right to fit in the seam allowance. Also, when stitching on your elastic, I used some binder clips to keep my elastic in place about 2 in. above the pattern mark. I started sewing on the mark but clipping the elastic above the mark really helped me keep my hands free for guiding the fabric and stretching the elastic. Pull your elastic to about 90-95 of its capacity. This will make sure your get the stretch you need but won't make it super difficult to guide. After your elastic is sewn, clip off the excess elastic. A little waste makes for much ease. I also used these same clips to keep all my pieces together as I sewed them up instead of pin because I didn't want any holes in my waterproof PUL which might cause leaks later.

Finally you can see in my pictures the before elastic comparison to my BumGenius Diapers

 And after. Pretty close huh?!

Finally, I would love to show your this cute little diaper on a equally cute little bottom but we will all have to wait for the fall before that happens. Also, I don't know the gender yet but just loved this cowboy print so much that even if I have a girl she will be rocking western style. Have fun with your print choices!

I was window shopping over at my favorite store, Anthropologie, a few weeks ago and found this top and knew it was destined to be mine- But not for $58! A quick look at the close-ups confirmed that is was a very stylized version of a pillowcase top with a banded hem. Done, case closed, let's get to work. I, being 5 mo. pregnant, decided to craft my version from knit to make it last the summer. I tell you I feel really pretty and myself in this top (which is hard to accomplish, considering I just popped).Here's how to make your own. You can easily make this top from a woven or a knit.

1 yd of Knit fabric (you can use interlock or jersey just make sure it has at least 20% stretch across the grain)

Walking foot on your standard machine.

Measure and cut your fabric pieces according to my handy cheat sheet that you can download below (click on the picture to save and print).

Here's an example of the main panel measurement: widest measurement is 38 in. / 2= 19 in. + 1 in. (seam allowance)= 20 in. cutting width

Length from shoulder to hip bone is 22 in. + 4 in. = 26 in. cutting length

From the remaining fabric cut a 2 in. wide strip by at least 60 in. in length for the drawstring tie at the top.

All stitches are assumed zig zag stitches unless otherwise noted

Mark your main panels 6-8 in. from the top on each side; above the mark is your arm hole and below is your side seam. Stitch your sides together (RS facing) starting at these marks. Fold down seam allowance in your arm hole and topstitch in place.

To make the front keyhole, cut an 8 in. by 2 in wide piece of knit for the facing and pin it the front main panel of your top as shown on the cheat sheet, matching centers (RS facing). Using a narrow stitch, stitch close to your center line on one side, stopping ½ from the bottom of the facing, stitch across your center and stitch back up the other side of your center using the same spacing (try to stitch between 1/8 and ¼ in. from the center). Clip down your center line and turn your facing to the inside of your front main panel. Turn under the raw edges of the facing, pin in place and topstitch around the edges of your facing to secure in place using a straight stitch.

Make top ruffle and casing: on the front and back, fold the top of your top down 1/2 in. and pin or baste, fold down another 1.5 in and pin in place, topstitch along fold using straight stitch. Stitch another line 3/4 in. above the topstitching using a straight stitch.

Stitch your hem bands together at the sides and fold in half, matching raw edges, WS facing, and pin to the bottom edge of your top, stretching the hem band as needed to fit. Stitch around hem band.

To make the draw string, fold draw string in half lengthwise, RS facing and stitch down the length. Turn draw string right side out and feed through casing using a safety pin or bodkin starting at one side of the keyhole on the front of your top and finishing on the other side. Knit your drawstring at both ends.

Congrats you are DONE! Enjoy your Keyhole Pillowcase top in wovens as well as knits, just cut your hem band on the bias for a little stretch around your hips. I love this top in solids as well as medium or small scale prints. Polka Dots are a must for this style!

P.S. because this is knit it makes a great maternity top!

If you are familiar with Grommet Pliers then, please, put all your pessimistic plier preconceptions aside; Snap Pliers are nothing like Grommet Pliers. Compared to Grommet Pliers, Snap Pliers are a walk in the park on a breezy spring day while drinking an iced coffee, holding hands with your sweetheart. I was loath to try these but I have some cloth diapers that needed to be converted from Velcro to snaps and have some cloth diapers to make in the days ahead and knew this was a task I could no longer put off.

I should have purchased a set of Snap Pliers years ago. They are so easy and snaps are handy for so many projects. Before I start listing their uses like Bubba listing shrimp recipes (see Forrest Gump for movie reference) I will share how to use the Babyville Boutique Snap Plier Set ($19.98) which includes the Snap Pliers already pre-loaded with a size 20 die trays (this is where you place your snaps pieces and press them together to seal) which is the size of the snaps Fabric.com carries! Plus a screw driver to change the die plates, an awl to punch a hole for your snaps and a shank that fits the larger die tray. Complete instructions are also included.

After my placement is marked I use my awl to punch a hole for my first snap. Since I am punching through PUL, which is a knit, I need to punch and twist to make a larger hole than I really need because the hole will slowly close up once I remove the awl and I need to get the shank of my snap through the hole before it closes so I make it a little bigger than I need to allow time for my fumbling fingers.

Once your shank is in place, place one of your snap cups on the shank. It doesn't matter which just make sure you only use one kind in each location. I will use the other kind on the diaper tabs. Once my snap cup is in place, I hold the two pieces together with my fingers while I maneuver the pieces into the Snap Pliers placing the shank end in the bottom die cup and the top snap cup under the top die cup. 

Once the snaps pieces are in place, I squeeze the plier handles together with as much pressure as I can muster and then release and squeeze again for good measure. That's it. You do the same procedure for the other side of your snap but you really don't need to be super strong to squeeze the pliers with enough force and it is all really easy. I love how professional they look (I don't always get the best looking grommets) and can't wait to convert all my diapers to snaps and make some new ones as well!!

Check out our great selection of snaps in different, cute colors!

 

Memories are fleeting. You wish you could reach out and grab one. One year I was looking to add another Christmas present for my daughter, I had already purchased her ''big'' presents, but I just needed something more. I stumbled across ''the memory jar''. I thought she would think it was hokey but she was very touched by it.

 What is the memory jar?  You think about the memories and good times you would like to remember.  I picked memories from her childhood and wrote them on slips of paper and put them in a decorated jar.  I added mementoes of her childhood. It was a very satisfying experience for me to make.

I decided it was time for another memory jar. This time the theme will be Motherhood.  My daughter is expecting her second child at the end of August.  This is also a great project to make with your child or grandchild.

Ingredients:

Mason glass jar

Labels

Stickers

Mother's Day coupons

Photographs

Selected memories written or printed on cardstock ( I am using blue cardstock because she is having a boy and the white cardstock is Sebastian's coupons)

When my daughter reaches into this jar she will pull out a memory of my memories as a young mother or some of her experiences with her first pregnancy. I am also throwing in some sonograms from her current pregnancy. I am calling this jar the "Just Because I Said So" jar. When my daughter was young I pledged that I would always explain my rules to her. Little did I know that I had given birth to a lawyer.  She countered all my arguments with her own thoughts. By the time she reached the age of ten, I retreated to the phrase I thought I would never say- Because I said so!

I am including some Mother's Day coupons that I will help my grandchild (Sebastian) fill out.

Use your imagination to create your own memory jar or create a different style. I found a sewing kit at Martha Stewart.com. She also has some other great Mother's Day gifts.

Sewing Kit Jar Supplies:

Mason Jar

Labels

Fabric Scraps and poly-fil (to make pincushion)

Tape Measure

Safety pins

Hand Needles

Thread

Pins

Buttons

Hot glue and glue gun

Tips:

Printing Labels- Always print your label on plain paper and align with the labels to  make sure that the printing will be centered on your label. You may have to adjust your printer settings. I found out that I needed to click on borderless printing to ensure good printing.

If you make the sewing kit jar- only apply the glue to the seal and not the rim to attach your pincushion.

If a child is helping you, let him/her select stickers to put on the job.

Resources:

Hobby Lobby

Staples

Inspirations:

Martha Stewart.com

Better Homes & Gardens

Woman's Day

Avery.com

I had the pleasure of getting a head start on Fabric.com's newest Free Pattern Download by Create Kids Couture: Hannah's Pillowcase Bubble Romper. Seeing this pattern brought back memories for me. My mom told me that I used to run around in these rompers when I was my daughter's age. Though I remember that all of mine featured the classic 1980's rainbow and terry cloth, I loved them anyway because as a busy kid I was able to get dressed with one article of clothing. I am glad to be able to pass this onto my daughter. This pattern was quick and fun! I did make a few adjustments for my little one and since she has been wearing it I have a few more. I will share all.

First I did not make the belt, either one. The reason for this was two fold: 1) I didn't think my daughter would tolerate it and 2) I have a limited wiggle-free time to dress her so I decided the time was better spent with socks, shoes or pony tails instead of belts (though I think both belts are adorable).

Next, I chopped off the top part of the romper right below the arm holes and stitched on a coordinating fabric (if you follow suit make sure you add in a sew allowance when cutting your coordinating piece). The bias trim matches the main romper fabric and I made the tie for the top out of my remaining bias trim, making it the same length as the thin tie. I also used the elastic at the legs since I don't have a serger. But if you want to shirr, you could add 3/4 in. to the legs when cutting, fold up ¼ in. press, fold up ½ in. press and then shirr the legs.

In the future (probably this weekend), I will pull out the ties and make straps. I recommend, folding down the front and back for the casing (before adding the bias on the arms) but adding elastic instead (I am going to use 5-6 in. for the size 3T. Then make the bias trim continue past the arm holes on the front and back to make straps that tie. This allows for younger kids to take off the romper by themselves and easily. The elastic still allows for the gathers but gives some room when pulling the romper down for potty stops and the straps mean little ones can pull it off and on by themselves without having to tie ties.

Finally, I want to add some rows of shirring onto the romper right at the waist. This will give a similar look to the belts but without the extra accessory. I am considering just two or three rows but we shall see how many I end up with. I just want to nip in the waist a bit since it so roomy.

I have to say that my little one looks so amazingly cute running around in her romper that I know more will be coming. It is perfect for hot days, playing in the sprinklers and running to the pool.

I used Moda prints for my romper and think my next will feature Moda Dottie!!

UPDATE:

The Create Kids Couture Hannah Pillowcase Bubble Romper is now available for download. And my pattern modifications discussed above are finished and ready for posting. I was too excited to wait for this weekend. First, I pulled out the one long shoulder tie and inserted 6 in. of 1/4 in. elastic into each casing (one for the front and one for the back) and stitched them in place. First I stitched up one end and then pulled the elastic through the other end and left a little hanging out so I could hold it tight while stitching and then trimmed it off so it was invisible (very similar to adding the shoulder elastic to the Oliver + S Class Picnic top. Then I cut 4 ties, 10 in. long and stitched them onto either side of each casing to make tie-able straps. The elastic plus strap making it easy for younger kids to pull the straps off and down for changing and potty breaks but doesn't ruin the styling of the gathers and ties. You can stitch your ties tied to prevent them being untied by curious hands. 

Finally, I added 3 rows of elastic shirring at the waist. I started 6 in. from the crotch seam but in hindsight I wish I had measured higher, maybe 8-10 in. from the crotch seam or halfway between the bottom of the armholes and the crotch seam. I followed the instructions for elastic shirring provided for the shirred belt. I added 3 rows of stitching 1/2 in. apart. The shirring worked great and looks super cute. My daughter loves this even more now that she can take it off herself and I love the elastic waist that helps the romper stay in place. Share with us your modifications on our Facebook page!

While many of this seasons dress are considered "billowy and flowy" and trapeze and maxi are the hot new trends, it follows that you need a great belt to really pull off these looks. The extra fabric that adds femininity and style to these styles also needs a bit of the masculine touch to cinch in your waist, add definition or a needed detail to polish your look. Many of the belts I have seen and love are the rope style. They follow the vogue of Kristl and Suzie's nautical post. These belts were inspired by popular (and expensive) designer pieces but you can make them for less and make them your own.

Mambo Braided Belt:

You will need 1 skein of Martha Stewart for Lion Brand Mambo Yarn and one fastener of your choice.

Start by evenly dividing your Mambo skein into 4 strands and braiding them according to the illustration below- Do not knot at either end, zig zag over the live strands to secure.

Cut you Mambo Braid to fit your waist minus 1-2 inch to accommodate the fastener. To finish and fasten add the fastener of your choice. You can sew your sewn ends to 2 long lengths (24 in. or longer) of 1-2 in. wide ribbon. You can add a buckle or you can make a snap clasp to secure the 2 ends.

 

6 Strand Rope Belt

You will need 6 times your waist measurement in Size 2 (1/4 in) cotton cording and a 4 in. wide by 24-48 in. length of quilting cotton (the length depends on how long you want your sash to be. Mine is a short, small bow of 24 in.). Fold your coding so you have 6 strands with both cut ends at one end with one loop and 3 loops at the other end. Zig zag over each end to secure. To make your sash, fold your quilting cotton along the length WS facing and using ¼ in. seam, stitch down one long end and across one short end. Turn and press. Fold under the open end and topstitch closed. 

Fold the sash in half and stitch one end of your rope belt (the end with the cut ends) to your sash in the center. Wrap your belt around your waist and slip one end of the sash through the other end of your belt and tie closed.