Reviews: April 2012 Archives
The appeal of the Kwik Sew Bohemian Short Sleeved Dress pattern is its simplicity. Since I love a quick project that I can make in a night to wear the next day, this one sparked my interest. The breezy feel of it was also a draw because it looked cool and comfortable -- vital in any Atlanta girl's wardrobe once May arrives.
For my first version of this pattern, I chose a zebra printed ITY. It whipped together like a dream, and it is beyond comfy. The pattern itself really couldn't be easier. The elastic at the neckline and sleeves is inset before you close those seams, which makes it a breeze to assemble -- easy as pie to make sure your elastic hasn't twisted.
I am short -- 5'3" -- and I have a full bust, and I felt like the neckline dipped a little to low to wear without a camisole or tank top underneath it.
This dress is a packing dream -- especially in ITY. You can easily roll it and toss it in a bag. It takes up no space and doesn't wrinkle. Also, because the ITY is lightweight and glides on the body, it's great for layering. I paired it with a denim vest and really loved the combo.
For my second version, I used a printed rayon blend rib knit, and I cut the neckline about 1.5" higher than the pattern called for. This gave me better coverage through the bust line.
Rayon blend knits are always so, so soft. This version is so comfy and cozy that it made me think this would be a great pattern to make up as a nightgown. That's like two patterns in one! Score!
One of my favorite
sewing patterns to relax with is Amy
Butler's Chelsea Tote. This pattern is available in 2 sizes. I made the larger
size for a knitting tote and have received many requests from friends for a
Chelsea of their own. Of those who can sew, I tell them about the pattern and
offer these tips for sewing up a Chelsea easier.
• I have read some suggestions about not
marking on the outside of the fabric, as Amy suggests, and I disagree with
Amy with stipulations. I used a water soluble marker and mark on the outside
and then spritz it with a water bottle afterwards and it all turns out great.
Some bloggers are of the mind that you would need to wash the bag afterward to
get the marker off. I recommend you just spray it lightly, it disappears and
your bag is good to go.
• FRAY
CHECK- buy some and use it! I used it along my cut lines before top
stitching the handles and then again in the corners after stitching. However, I
have a suggestion on the handle too, if you will read below, but if you follow
the Chelsea directions to the "T" then use the fray check as suggested above.
• Fabric glue or just a plain old glue stick. On my
next Chelsea, I would use glue to keep the handles in check and then construct
the bag as instructed without topstitching the handles. Then once you get
to the part where you are attaching the reversible side to the outside there
will be no stitching on your handles. This is when you top stitch around
the top of the bag to finish it off, then top stitch the handles or if you
prefer hand stitch the handles together. I feel that this will insure that
your handles have a nice clean look. I cannot get my topstitching on both the lining
and outside to match up and couple that with the fact that I am matching
up handle holes at the same time. This will cut down on stress and guarantee a
nice finish.
I recommend using quilting
cotton to make sure you find the perfect print for your Chelsea bag.
I know I am not that far into my pregnancy but since this is my second child, I am showing sooner and already find my pre-pregnancy clothing uncomfortable and I am ready for some maternity wear. This transition occurred just as I was prepared to pack away my family's winter clothing and bring out the warm weather wear. As I did this I happily discovered many of my favorite pieces from my previous projects could easily carry me through most, if not all, of my pregnancy. I will share with you which I am rocking currently and which I plan to modify for later wear when I am much, much bigger.
First up is my current favorite (Heather
Ross Mendocino Sundress) because it is so comfy plus so chic. I instantly feel
pulled together and lovely even though I am still suffering from morning
all-day sickness. I cannot live without the pockets either which make it great
for storing sippy cups, phone, keys and various rocks and flowers picked up on my
many walks outside with my daughter. The elastic shirring means it will grow
with me (everywhere it seems) and I don't show yet when wearing this dress. Free
Pattern download from original post, click on link above.
Second, I am loving my Infinity Dress in ITY Knit. It is so easy to switch it up to hide or show off which ever parts I need to hide or draw attention to (to distract away from another area) since I am not in the "oh your pregnant, how wonderful" stage, more like the "I wonder if she's pregnant or just hitting the ice cream a little too hard" stage. Given this, having a dress that I can change each day and with my mood makes me feel like my old self: a million bucks. This dress can take me from school to a wedding in just a few minutes. The stretch of the ITY will accommodate my growing belly in style and comfort.
Third in my go-to maternity wardrobe is my Kwik Sew Knit Pullover dress that I modified with a scallop hem. Not only it this dress knit (stretch!) but the gathered waist features elastic meaning it is great for showing off a svelte waist when not pregnant and fitting around a growing belly when you are. The wide tank straps allow me to wear any bra I like which can vary on a day to day basis. This dress is nothing but relaxing to wear because it is just one item of clothing and I am ready to go with a pair of sandals.
Lastly, I already have the HotPatterns Cabriolet Dress/Skirt in Wool for winter but I am planning on making it in cotton for this summer. With the ties I can wrap it under my belly and as a dress I can have the ties go under my décolletage and above my belly giving me some definition but mostly style and comfort. I am torn between a bold busy pattern or a subdued floral (like Shannon's, click link above). Both shout summer to me. I guess I will just have to make it in both! This is a Fabric.com Free Pattern Download!
Things are already hot in Atlanta, so I'm definitely ready for summer clothes. I am eager for flowing, breezy style that doesn't drag me down when the temps are climbing, so a tropical skirt is perfect for my sewing mood right now.
The trick with maxi skirts, for me, is that I'm ... shrimpy. I stand 5'3" on a good day with perfect posture, so most maxi dresses or skirts drag the ground on me unless I make some alterations. This pattern is perfect for such alterations because of the multiple tiers. The trick is ensuring that when you make changes, you maintain the seam lines so everything still matches up. Here's how I do it on a project like this one:
First, I assembled the pattern as intended. Here is lower middle tier piece at its normal length:
When it came time to shorten the pattern, I pulled the taped pieces apart (I use an inexpensive athletic tape for assembly -- it comes apart without much struggle, but it also holds well):
Then, I reassembled the pattern piece so that the overlap between the two pieces of paper was much greater, shortening it by several inches:
To even out the outside cutting edge, I trimmed the excess paper that prevented a smooth transition from one piece of the pattern paper to the next:
Here's the altered pattern piece, with the small piece I trimmed off sitting next to it:
I did the alteration for the middle two tiers. I determined after measuring the original pattern that I wanted to take between 4" and 5" off the total length of the skirt, so I divided that between the middle two tiers.
This method ensures that the seams that join one tier to the next all stay intact. Hooray!
I also wanted to try altering the pattern in a way that makes a shorter skirt, but maintains the design lines of the original.
I decided to use the top two tiers of the skirt as-is, but then I wanted just a short tier after that to finish below the knee around mid calf. To make my third, shortened bottom edge pattern piece, I traced the lower middle tier piece, and then used the lower tier piece to determine the length of my traced piece. Again, I used this approach rather than using the existing lower layer to make sure my seams all matched up.
I chose a pink eyelet for this version, and I wanted to take advantage of the scalloped edge on the fabric, so I cut it as my hem. Here you can see how I cut the pieces for the lowest tier of this version right along the finished edge of the fabric. 
I never like to waste a good thing, so I cut a 2" strip along the second finished edge of the eyelet and worked it in between the lowest two layers of my skirt:
Here's my finished second skirt. The eyelet seriously needs a slip under it, or, as I plan to do, an underlayer worked into the skirt itself. 
As always, my favorite thing about the Hot Patterns free downloads is how versatile they are. I don't feel guilty hacking away at a pattern to customize it, because I can always print a fresh copy. (I use the paper scraps for notes so I don't waste, I promise!)How will you make this summer skirt uniquely your own?
It comes as no surprise that I am quite pleased that Fabric.com has added a kids clothing designer to our growing line of Free Pattern Downloads, Create Kids Couture. The first pattern released for free download is the Marilyn Slim Fit Peasant Dress & Top which I made this past weekend and loved. I was surprised to find what a fan I am of a well placed ruffle especially when the model is so especially cute in well placed ruffles.
First, this was a pretty quick garment to stitch up. The pattern is easy to cut and assemble with most of the pattern pieces rectangles that you cut out according to your size from the chart provided. The only piece you need to print and cut is the sleeve cup. The directions are a snap given that you are provided with pictures along with your instructions. This is a fun pattern to experiment with different fabric combos too because you can opt for just one fabric for the whole garment, 2 fabrics (one for the body and another for the sleeves and ruffle) or go crazy with 3 fabrics (one for each the body, sleeve and ruffle).
I am a really big fan of the elastic neckline. It creates a very soft shape that doesn't shift and my little one found comfy. PLUS, it can be stretched for larger heads or so you don't mess up those braids you spent 15 min persuading your little girl to "sit still" for. I chose not to add elastic to the arms because my daughter ending up not liking it (though today she might like it) and I thought it was too puffy. The plain sleeves look just as beautiful. I created the top length and am very pleased with the length. It is just right for a top though if you omit the ruffle (which I will try the next time I make it just for a different look) I will add 2 in. to the body to compensate. Despite the "Slim Fit" in the name, I found this dress very roomy for my preschool that still sports the toddler big round belly. She didn't feel confined or restricted in her movement. The top was a big hit! You can also try this pattern in a knit. Just cut a size smaller and cut the stretch widthwise on all pieces.
I have been wanting to test drive the Hot Patterns Weekender Track & Field Cargo Pants pattern for a while. The pieced legs and topstitched detailing really appeal to me, but I also was a little fretful that it would make for a very arduous process, getting all those details in place.
So, as I was cutting, I couldn't help but think, "This pattern has 8,000 pieces. This is gonna take forEVER." But once my cutting was complete and I set to work, I found that things actually moved along at a decent pace. There is a certain measure of patience you need whenever you set your sights on a project that has a lot of details, but I generally find that patience is handsomely rewarded. I am happy to report that is the case with these pants.
I opted for an organic sweatshirt fleece for this pair. Now that I have one run through this pattern under my belt, I know I want to make another in a fabric that has no stretch, just to see how it compares.
To give you an example of the detailing process on these pants, I photographed the back pocket assembly as I went.
First up, there's a semi-circle of topstitching that goes on the assembled pocket flap. I knew I couldn't possibly just wing it and get anything even vaguely akin to a circular arc, so I cut a circle out of a scrap I had on hand and marked it's edge at four equidistant points so I could line it up consistently. Then I safety pinned it in place, and used it as a guide for my stitching.
Voila! Circular stitching made easy.
First comes the stitching that attaches the pocket to the trouser section and creates the pocket's finished top edge. You'll see here that I've clipped the corners to turn it:
Here's the interior of the pants back piece with the pocket flipped in. The second pocket piece will situate right on top of this one (from this side) and then you stitch through all three layers (back of pants, and two layers of pockets) to create the enclosed pocket:
Here is the pocket from the right side, with the second layer of pocket stitched in and top stitching around the pocket shape. Ready to hold your smartphone!
The pocket flap is stitched into the seam that joins the back yoke to the back pants.
As you can imagine, each detail on these pants is comprised of a handful of steps, just as this pocket was.
I find if I think about each section as a small series of steps like this was, I don't get overwhelmed by the details on a project. I just keep plugging away, and before I know it, all of those seemingly 8,000 pieces are in play.
I love these pants. While I was photographing them. my husband kept telling me how cool he thought they were, and I have to agree. The design is fab. The pants are sporty and comfy, but all the details make them sophisticated enough that you could wear them to work if you have an office that's got a business casual vibe. Pair them with a tee shirt for weekend wear or a blazer for the office. Or, make them out of a completely luxe fabric, and they're perfect for date night. I've got my eye on a stretch sateen for my next pair!
