Patterns: May 2011 Archives

Memorial Day seems to be the official start of summer, AKA Swimsuit season. If you are anything like me, finding a swimsuit to fit your body is somewhere on the list of un-favorite things to do behind cleaning the bathroom and changing poopy diapers. One of the reasons I detest swimsuit shopping so much is that my body is not standard and is even less so since having a baby. My bust and chest ratio is not available off the rack. And if a 2 piece is not sold by the piece than that ain't happening either. I often wonder why tops are not sold in bra sizes because just because a lady is a medium across the chest does not make her a medium in cup size. And don't get me started on bottoms!

Alas, we are the lucky ones because we can sew so we can custom fit and design a swimsuit to not just fit perfectly but also to highlight what we like, disguise what we don't and add any details that are hot right now. So with all this in mind, I set out to make a great suit for me and I started with Kwik Sew's Swimsuit and Wrap Pattern (KP-3330) because #1: I really liked the skirt option and #2: I thought the top would be easy to modify to fit me well. To begin I tried on all my swimsuits from past and present to see what design elements I like and which I did not. I found that the halter style gave me the support I was looking for but I liked thicker straps that those in the pattern. This was easily fixed by widening the top of the cups. Right where the top of the cup reaches 2 in. across I extended it up to make 2 in. wide and 15 in long straps. I installed the elastic as stated in the pattern but continued the hem all the way up the strap. I also made the under bust strap into a tie as well for a better fit and extended the tie 5 more inches on each side but kept the elastic the same sizes as stated in the pattern. For the bottoms I left off the waist band because I found the elastic to give a slight muffin top effect. I may modify it later with more elastic or a smaller waist band but I am still waffling. I am also considering taking the waist band and putting it on the skirt so that the skirt is removable.

Now for the venting: there are few things more slippery than elastic on swimsuit fabric. It takes some practice to anticipate how it moves and where to position it on the sewing machine. I recommend using long, skinny, SHARP pins too. The long ones enabled me to keep them in the fabric until the last possible moment and then pull them out so my fabric would stay together. Because and try on your top as you make it. The darts can be tricky, if you don't curve them a bit you will end up with points, which is not a good look. You want a cup shape not a cone. Also, you will need a walking foot, a seam ripper, patience and a good drink (coffee or wine, depending on the time of day). The drink is for when you are just about to hurl your project out the window, take a drink and a deep breath and get back to work. It is worth it in the end to avoid dressing room lights and look good at the pool.

UPDATED:

I have made the skirt and added the waist band to my bottoms. I recommend both but without the waist elastic. I originally had the elastic in my waist band as instructed in the pattern but it definitely gave a muffin top appearance and I feared I would have to suck in the whole time at the pool. So I ripped the waist band off and took out the elastic and it looks so much better and works just fine. This suit has been pool tested with a 2 yr old and it stays in place and looks great. I love the skirt: it is just long enough to add coverage without looking old fashioned. 

To answer Anns question- There is no elastic at the top of the bottoms without the skirt as pictured above, only a fold over and then zig zag stitch. I don't think you need the elastic but if it sits too low or you want added insurance, add the waist band. It looks great and stays in place without elastic. You could definitely make the band wider to create more of a hipster look or more tummy coverage but I think you will see from the skirt picture that it does come up quite a bit so try it as is first with your muslin and then adjust as needed.   

Fabric used above is Swimsuit/active wear fabric in Royal Blue

Among the more interesting and yet challenging knitting stitches is the dropped stitch. It is no interesting because of the ladder effect it creates. I deem it challenging because dropping a stitch is ingrained into a knitter's head from birth as a central wrong and big mistake, yet here we ask you to do it with alacrity. However, like most knitting techniques we have explored here, it just takes a bit of courage (just a teeny bit), some hope, and practice.

Vertical Dropped Stitches (vertical ladders):

The vertical dropped stitch is the easiest but also the most cringe worthy. Your first row is your foundation and insurance that your dropped stitches won't go wrong. I cast on 20 Sts. My first row was a purl row so my increases were Purl into the front and back (Pf&b). Your vertical ladders will trade places with the 'b' of the Pf&b.  
Foundation Row (wrong side): P 1, Pf&b, *P4, Pf&b; repeat to last 3 sts, P3.

Continue in Stockinette until your piece is as long as you like but before you bind off, on the wrong side: P2, drop 1, *P5, drop 1; repeat to last 3 sts, P3. Bind off. Pull out your dropped stitches all the way down to the cast on row. Don't worry because you are pulling out an increase the cast on row will be secured by the original stitches.

Horizontal Dropped Stitches (horizontal ladders):

Horizontal stitches are also dropped increase but they are created and dropped with every 2 rows, not just at the foundation.

Cast on 20 Sts.

R1: *K1, Yo (twice); repeat to last st, k1

R2: *K1, drop both yarn overs; repeat to last st, k1

R3& 4: knit

Repeat row 1-4 until piece is desired length. The ladders are created by the dropped double yo and create stripes of dropped stitches.

Experiment with your own dropped stitch pattern. The created airy design is perfect for warm weather projects. Worked in simple linen or cotton blends will not only add a touch of color and softness but also add texture to a simple summer dress.  

Infinity dresses are everywhere these days; a call back from their heyday in the 1970's. And why not! They are classics and modern perfectly combined because you can wear them to suit your style, event or mood. Couple that with Fabric.com's amazing selection of dreamy Stretch ITY knits and your infinity dress can be in a rainbow of colors or lengths (Mine is in turquoise). The infinity dress is perfect for holiday weekends or destination weddings because it is wrinkle free and ready to wear in seconds.

There are many different versions in stores these days but some lacked pizzazz or included too much pizzazz. I originally fell in love with the original on Rostitchery's blog but I had trouble with cutting the circle skirt. Rowena of Rostitchery wrote another version with some great additions for Threads Quick Stuff to Sew that included an easier version of the circle skirt and a small elastic casing (among other great tips) but I still didn't want to deal with Pi or a circle skirt so I developed my own work around : a gathered skirt. What I really loved about the gathered skirt- besides not cutting out a circle- is the ease of hemming, no round hems here! Here's how to make an infinity dress like mine.

Materials:

4 yds of ITY Knit

Coordinating thread

1 yd of ½ in. elastic

Measuring tapes of various mediums (seamstress, carpenter's and a solid ruler)

*Always use a narrow zig-zag stitch unless otherwise noted

Measure out your 2 straps which will be 1.5 times your height. I am 5'7" so I rounded to 8ft long for my straps. The width is roughly from your breast bone to under your arm. I measured  11 in. So I cut 2 straps 8 ft long and 11 in. wide. The skirt piece is double your natural waist (mine is 28 in. so I cut mine to 60 in. to make it easy) for the width by however long you want your dress to be. I decided on a  36 in. length and it hits right at my ankle (perfect for dancing). The casing piece is your waist plus 2 in by 2.5 in.

With right sides together sew up the side seam of the skirt piece. Baste 2 lines of stitches along the top and pull the bobbin thread to gather up the skirt until it equals your waist measurement. Stitch the gathers in place. With right sides facing, pin your straps onto your skirt with the seam in the back, fold your casing widthwise and pin to your skirt over the straps, overlapping the ends by 1-2 in. Stitch all these layers in place. Insert your elastic into your casing, making sure not to twist and then stitch the ends of your elastic together and then close and stitch your casing ends (I just tucked one end into the other and stitched over top of the ends. Voila you are done.

Now there are tons of videos on how to wear and wrap infinity dresses on YouTube. But there are also many ways to fancy up your dress as well. You can add a simple ruffle like my Michael Miller Knit post or add many ruffles to your skirt. You can make your dress in white and dye it in an ombre design. You can make your skirt and straps to coordinate but not match. Some designs even feature a built in tube top (just an extension of the waist casing) or a separate tube top for extras modesty or with a built in bra. The possibilities are endless but this is the PERFECT summer dress!

My first big crochet project and I am feeling pretty good about it. I have been drooling over the Irish Lace Scarf pattern (Nicky Epstein for Lion Brand) ever since Fabric.com featured it as a thumbnail for our Yarn Section. This is a great pattern for beginners. It is still a little tricky but a good way to expand your crochet knowledge. I had stumbled a bit on the scarf with the last stitch of each row's placement but with some experimentation decided to stitch into the spaces for the last stitches instead of the chain as the pattern states. I also had trouble with the Roses. Crochet seems to be more 3D than knitting which I think of as more back and forth and if you want to build you must go back and pick up stitches. But this is not the case with crochet; you can just as easily build out as you can back and forth. When the Rose Pattern called for 'working behind' rows I was stumped. No- I was beyond stumped. As a knitter I could not see how it was possible. However, with the help of this fine video I was able to see through my ignorance and work out the Rose.

I hooked mine in Lion Brand Cotton Ease Terracotta (2 skeins) and made it into a caplet to wear to spring/summer weddings or as a chic addition for a chilly date-night. Here's the low down to make one just like mine. First, I shortened the pattern from 57 in. to about 28-30 in. I also added the picot edge to only 3 sides. After making my first Rose, I loved the look so much without the center than I decided against crocheting the centers. I also opted out of the leaves since I was going for a caplet instead of a scarf so I wanted fewer additions so as not to compete with my dress and to make the lace detail stand out. Since I was crocheting this out of cotton, I was also concerned about too much weight so that was another reason to nix the added leaves. I added the ties by SC a slip knot on to the top corners and then chaining about 20 chains (or 6 in. length). The Roses are joined on with slip stitches to the upper corners of each end.

Don't you just love magic? When I was a kid magic was a sure-fire way to get my attention. Now that I am grown (well, taller really.) I am still a sucker for magic. Like Magic Loop is to knitting, Magic Circle is to crochet and it is equally as glorious. When I was just starting out with crochet, I remember trying and trying to crochet into my chain to make a small circle and it eluded me over and over again. Had I had this trick up my sleeve from the beginning, I would have been much happier making my Easter Eggs and Best Bunny. Not only is Magic Circle an excellent beginning to Amigurumi but also for flowers, hats and round motif-based afghans.

Magic Circle is a little tricky for beginners, especially if you are transitioning from holding your yarn in your right hand to your left. I have found a super video that really walks you through Magic Circle including some pretty sweet slow motion for extra handholding that beginners need (me, me!). Once you get the hang of it, Magic circle is really easy and so nice. It is basically crocheting into a slip knot that is not knotted but tightened after you have crocheted your chain into the slip knot. It is really brilliant!

I have been using it to practice all my crochet stitches, sometimes making something pretty, often times it resembles more of a slightly organized tangle of yarn. However, I am getting better with the yarn/hand switch and also making progress on my next project the Irish Rose Scarf by Nicky Epstein for Lion Brand. It is a neat scarf that is easy and I can't wait to share it. The Magic Circle was integral in helping me with the roses.

You can find sneak peeks of my projects on twitter by following @tdangermiller

 

From Hot Patterns, this Sporty Sarong-Short free pattern is awesome! The garment has the appearance of a skirt, comfort of shorts, and cute tie accent in front.  I was a little hesitant of the "skort" aspect myself... but, really... what a practical garment! These are fashion-forward modern skorts. And I love them.  Choose a printed fabric to make them, and you won't even be able to tell they are actually shorts; great for dressing up or dressing down!

The cut of the pattern is marvelous, and so easy to put together! I chose the rayon challis print from the Style Studio collection. Challis is a dream to work with, and the drape is perfect for this style of garment. You want something with some flow and drape to it. Also try voile, linen or peachskin! For my next project I want to combine this pattern with a top pattern and attach the two to make these into a sporty sarong-short romper!

Add another one to my "Love" column; Oliver + S's Sunday Brunch Jacket is a must have for your kid's wardrobe. #1 (and you readers know that this is always #1 for me) It was a fast project. As adorable and fabulous as this jacket looks on the envelope, one would think it would be difficult or time consuming at the least. Neither is true. This is an easy pattern and really took half as long as I originally banked. There are not that many pattern pieces (this equals limited cutting) and the instructions were pie. I really loved this pattern.

I also love how casually dressy (AKA- comfy fancy) it is. My daughter has plenty of the typical toddler jackets which are mostly cotton or a cotton/poly blend in generic primary colors or uber-girl colors with a hood and zipper. They are great for play (especially with her affinity for puddles) but I can't throw one of those jackets one over a cute dress for a birthday party, holiday dinner or anywhere nice we need to go. And sometimes I just do want something nicer than the norm but still comfy for her. My 2 yr old shouldn't know the difference between a regular jacket and a nice jacket and luckily with this pattern all of the above it true. I can make this pattern in just about any fabric and it is still nice but still washable and comfy for her.

Now for the Mods: I limited my modifications for this pattern today since I was focusing on the use of Home Dec fabric for the jacket. This Amy Butler Love print is so bright and fun that I thought it was perfect for a kid's jacket. It doesn't hurt that now she and I can match, should we choose. The 100% Cotton has a soft hand and forgiving pattern. I did not add cuffs since I made the 3T size and I wanted to make it easy to let out the sleeves when the time comes. I also did not interface since I was using a heavier weight fabric. I would suggest finishing the seams with bias tape as you go not when the instructions call for it. If you follow the instructions you will be adding bias tape to seams that have already been edge stitched and that is tricky. I suggest finishing with bias tape first then edge stitching. Also, I suggest the Riley Blake buttons since they are CUTE and perfect for this jacket.

I can't wait to make the skirt but I will opt for a navy solid or navy with mini dots instead of matching it to the jacket. This jacket will make its debut Sunday on Mother's day. I can't wait to button those buttons and escort her around in her new jacket! I also recommend trying the jacket in Denim, Linen or Seersucker.

You can follow my projects on twitter @tdangermiller and follow @fabricdotcom for scoops and deals!

Summer is almost here and I, especially, am eagerly awaiting the opening of the pool, first day on the lake or our first beach trip. I love to lounge by the water and read a good book. However, I always forget to bring a pillow. Who would remember something like that when you already have your tote stuffed full of towels, cover-ups and swimsuits. Well, I decided to knit up a Beach Pillow to serve as storage for a towel or cover-up so it won't be forgetten (and fits easily in your bag). Use the Beach Pillow by the pool, lake or ocean when it's time for some reading or a well earned nap.

The perfect beach or pool companion, this knitted mesh pillow cover is made to be stuffed with your beach towel, cover-up or discarded swimsuits. One side is mesh lace to allow for moisture wicking and breathability so you can store your wet towels or swim suits after a long day frolicking in the water or for a cool place to rest your head as you watch the kids splash about.

I use mine to keep cool so I stuff my Beach pillow with my wet towel and settle in with my summer read while hubby takes his turn with the little ones in the pool. The Beach Pillow is also a good place to toss your wet swimsuits when the day is done. The cotton yarn will absorb the moisture without distributing it throughout your tote. The cotton plus mesh will also deter mildew. The Beach Pillow Cover is also a great way to carry your towels to and from. It will keep them neat, dry and easy for the kids to carry around. Beware of pillow fights on the walk to the beach!

The Beach Pillow Cover is also a great beach knit, download your copy of the pattern today! The Beach Pillow shown above is knit in Lion Brand Recycled Cotton in Sunshine