Patterns: April 2011 Archives

Being a Weekend Sewing by Heather Ross Addict ("Hello, my name is Tara and I am addicted to Weekend Sewing...") and having made the Smocked Dress for my little girl I was over the moon when I stumbled across this hidden gem on the web. The Heather Ross Mendocino Sundress is almost an urban legend with many whispers concerning its existence but few have seen it. There are breadcrumbs to broken links throughout the internet but I have found the direct link and thus made the dress. AND... IT... IS... AMAZING. First, this dress is super fast. You can make it in an afternoon. There are 4 pieces to cut (6 if you want straps) and with the elastic thread the smocking is a piece of cake.

Now for the mods (modifications for you newbies): first, I selected the uber beautiful and dreamy Valori Wells Jenaveve Linen Blend fabric in Pebbles Merlot. Let me mention that this is a cheerful reddish/coral print perfect for spring and summer. This linen (and even more specifically this print) is perfectly paired with this dress. I was more excited to be finished at each stage of construction. There are pockets, glorious pockets! But the pockets that come with the pattern are HUGE so I used the pockets from this dress but you can always just reduce the size of the Mendocino pockets but 10-20% on your copier or at your local copy place. I placed my pockets at 14 in. where the pattern recommends anywhere between 14-18 in. I guess my arms are a little short. I also smocked 8.5 in. where the pattern recommends 6-8 in. I am on the busty side so I wanted to make sure that I was 1) covered and 2) there was some smocking below the bust to nip in the waist a bit to lend a slimmer line. If the dress just goes from bust to billowy bottom then I tend to look bigger than I am. That is why I prefer to make my own smocked dresses and tunics. The store bought dresses/tops do not have enough smocking and it ends up looking frumpy. I also made my straps longer so I could add the cute bow that the little girl Smocked Dress has. I cut 4 strips of 2 by 15 in. The length is just right plus I can tuck them in should I want to go strapless. The hem is a double turned 1.5 in. but I want to make it much shorter so that it sits right at the knee which means I will need to cut off 3-4 in.   

Materials:

Heather Ross Mendocino Sundress Pattern

2 yds of Valori Wells Jenaveve Linen Blend 

1 Spool of Elastic Thread

1 Spool of All Purpose Thread

Conclusion: I adore this dress. Heather mentions that this dress offers enough support for you to go braless and I did try it. In the future, I will opt for the bra just because I feel more comfortable with it than without. It does offer great support but I would only recommend it for those A & B cups. You can also just do 2 straps and wear it as a halter neck. Another version would be to cut it very short to wear as a tunic and then you can tuck in the straps to wear as a skirt as well. This is a great standard sundress with lots of possibility. Sexy and casual it can adapt to your days and events as needed. This is a MUST MAKE Dress!  

Remember back in November when I first took a stab at a project from Sewing Green by Betz White? Well, I decided to take another go at the Easy, Breezy Skirt for Earth Day. I really like my original skirt but have decided to take the pattern up a notch for Earth Day to inspire our readers with the versatility of the pattern. My first version used a pillowcase, but I wanted more volume for my second try so I decided to use the matching flat sheet that came with the pillowcase. If you don't have a great sheet laying around to cut into you can use1 ½ yds of quilting cotton or 1 yd of 56-60 in. apparel fabric (like our Tropical Hemp fabric).

I had the picture in my head of a hybrid of a Paper-bag Skirt and a Ruffle-topped Skirt. The modifications I added were that I started with 2 rectangles of 25 in. by 26 in. which I cut using the existing hem as suggested by Betz White. When it came to sewing the elastic casing, I folded over the top 5 in. towards the right side and with a 1 in. seam allowance stitched the elastic casing-this created the top ruffle. Before adding the elastic I added a double turn hem to the top of this ruffle.

Because of the added volume and length (I made this skirt longer than my previous), I can make this skirt do double duty as a strapless tunic. It looks amazing with a chunky belt (try my free fabric belt pattern) and jeans.

This is just one way to recreate this great eco-friendly pattern. You can layer 2 or more pillowcases to add more color or texture. You can sew on some knit ruffles to create movement or if you opt for a solid colored sheet (like me) or pillowcase you can add some great embroidery from Sublime Stitching. I recommend purchasing Sewing Green book for your library so you can make your own version of the Easy, Breezy Skirt plus anyof the other 24 great projects.

Sewing Green is a great book to enjoy on Earth Day; not only does Betz White encourage you to work from existing goods but to also grab from your stash. She also highlights other Green Fabric Lovers so this book is full of eco-inspiration. However, should your stash be in need of replenishing, check out our Organic and Eco-friendly fabric section!  

Fabric: Michael Miller Interlock Knit Ta Dot Apple

Pattern: Simplicity 2443 Cynthia Rowley

I have had my eye on Michael Miller's Interlock Knits Prints for quite some time now but I put off purchasing it for the simple reason that I had already labeled them as "kid prints". Thus without any conscious thought I had mentally removed it from my list and thus out of my shopping cart. But when I needed project ideas for this month's blog theme of "Spring Wardrobe", I gave it a second look and decided that I would help remove the stigma of "Kid Print" from these great, modern knit prints and show their glam/adult side.

Let me start out with a monologue on how gorgeous and totally awesome this fabric is. I have not been this excited while making a dress since Serendipity Monique Dress (and if you will remember this dress gave me a challenge); this dress is even better. The reason I rank this dress so high is because that it is knit. Knit = Fantastic. First, the interlock doesn't curl so it is easy to work with. Second, the print is just plain fun. The polka dot oval shape gave some definition to the waist band which was cut on the stretch. It doesn't just blend in anymore. Third, the fabric is just SOFT and gets softer with a wash or 2. The stretch is just right for this dress and adds more comfort than you would expect from such a tailored dress. I highly recommend an interlock knit for this, or really any spring knit dress pattern.

Now to the modifications that really make the dress super fun.  The pattern calls for gathers around the waist but I wanted to add more structure and tailoring to counteract the whimsical nature of the fabric pattern so I opted for pleating around the waistline and it turned out even more fab than I was counting on. To make the pleats I folded each skirt piece in half widthwise and marked the center. I then marked out from the center at 1 in. increments to the edges. Working from the center, take your third mark and fold it toward the center, matching it up with your center mark and pin. This makes one pleat. Repeat for the other side of the center and all the way down toward the edges till you have reached the same measurements as your waist band (I spaced my pleats out 1 in.). I made six 1 in. box pleats and two ½ in. box pleats on each skirt piece to make my skirt pieces match the 15 ½ in. of each waist band piece. I added my ½ in. box pleats on the edges to make up for the difference. I also added a very simple and tailored ruffle at the bottom. It adds some definition to the skirt without drawing too much attention to one area and keeps the dress more tailored and sophisticated than the original pattern. To make this simple ruffle, use the same width measurements as your skirt pieces by 4 in. Mine were 31 by 4 in. pieces. Cut 2 and stitch together at the sides using the same instructions as the skirt pieces and set aside. On your skirt pieces mark a line all the way across the front of your fabric with a washable marker 5 in. above your hem line (or if you are leaving it un-hemmed like me: 5 in. above the bottom). Line up and pin the top of your ruffle with this line and stitch in place using a ¼ to ½ in. seam. Your ruffle will fray just slightly with a few washes and add some texture to your ruffle.

Now for the recommendations: I omitted the pockets in this dress to give it a sleeker look but I will go back and add them just because I love them so much in my previous versions and the pockets don't add that much bulk to justify leaving them out. I did use an invisible zipper but there is enough stretch to opt out of this as well.

I added darts to my bodice bands just under the arms to accommodate gapping due to a larger bust line. The illustration is below to make your own. My darts were ½ in.

I shortened the straps by ½ in. on each piece for a total of 1 in. shorter straps for a bit more modesty since I will be wearing this whilst carrying a 2 yr old and bending over.

This pattern can be tricky when stitching the bands to the bodice but if you clip into the bands around the curves while pinning it makes it a lot easier. I clipped about every ¼ to ½ in around the curves. Sometimes you will have to rip back and re-sew; the dress is such a wardrobe staple that an extra 30 min is worth the time investment. Oh and one last tip: Wash this fabric at least twice. Don't just do it once. Mine shrunk a bit more after the second wash.

You can see my previous versions of this dress here and here

And you can follow my projects on twitter: get sneak peeks on upcoming projects, tips and links.

Our closets are not the only areas we get a craving to update; our outdoor spaces may be blooming but could also use a little fabric help. Whether it is vintage chairs that need some paint and new cushion or a chaise that needs a floral box pillow or (like me) you need to bring some color to an outdoor patio; outdoor fabric is a spring necessity. The colors are bright and bold; the prints are big and make a statement. This is all exactly what you need to contend with the show put on by your lawn, garden and competitive neighbors. I think decorating the outdoors is my favorite home dec project because I can use the bright colors and big patterns my brain tries to talk me into everyday of the year and in an afternoon you can make the outdoors inviting to friends and family. Fabric.com's selection of outdoor fabric gets better every year!

My patio area is a covered walkway from my back door to my garage and is a jungle of browns and bland greens. Brown walkway (colored from the red clay), brown fence, brown patio set and green house. It needs something and fast. We have plans for planters but since it is all shade under there I am having trouble deciding on shape plants that can handle the abuse a 2 yr old might decide upon and the sweltering heat of the Georgia summers. Until the happy day where I find my dream plant, I am planting with an outdoor fabric instead. It will bring in all the color I want without needing any water or constant vigilance over little hands and plotting minds.

It takes about 1 yd for every 2 chair cushions so I am working with 3 yds to make 6 cushions.  To start you want to measure the area for your cushion. Mine measured 16 x 17 in. I cut my foam to match this size using an electric knife. If you don't have foam left over from another project like I did, you can always score some from at a thrift store by finding outdoor cushion that may be hideous but still in good shape and recover them (or use a pillow form for an extra cozy cushion). I next cut 2 pieces from my fabric 1 in. bigger on each side (this will account for the 1 in. depth of my foam plus a ½ in. seam allowance. So my cutting measurements were 18 x 19 in. With right sides together, I stitched around the sides and front of my cushion, leaving a 6-7 in gap the back open to fit the cushion. After clipping the corners and pressing open the seam allowance on the gap (this makes it easier to hand sew later) I turned my cover right side out. Next, fold you foam in half and slide it into your cover and carefully unfold it until it is snug inside the cover (since my measurements were so close I drew an arrow to make sure I inserted my foam correctly). Hand sew your gap closed.

Now you can add your embellishments. I opted for a nice little bow at a back corner (though I have it in front in the pictures, that was just me a little over excited about how great the cushion turned out). It adds a little whimsy but I don't have to really worry about backsides rubbing it off because it is tucked safely in a back corner. To make the bow cut a length of ribbon 2 the size of your desired finished bow. Fold it in half and stitch the 2 ends together. Place the seam in the back middle of the loop and press it in half. Next, wrap another small length of ribbon around your flattened loop and stitch the 2 ends together in the back and sew to the flattened loop. Once your bow is finished you can hand sew it to your cushion for a pretty flare. You can also add buttons to tuft your cushions (this is a good idea if you go with the pillow forms) or tassels at the corners. To keep your cushions in place you can add ties to the back (about 6 to 8 in. for each) or add some non-slip backing to the bottom of your cushion.

Most of our outdoor fabric blends with many collections so it will be easy to add tablecloths, coordinating pillows and grill covers.Check out our whole Outdoor Fabric Section which includes fabric by motif, patterns and notions. Have fun!

On the heels of last week's posting on Amigurumi, I bring you some super fun Crochet Easter Toys.
 *Editorial: Let it not be said that we at Fabric.com have not heeded your call for more Crochet- but having said that know that I am still learning. I want to thank our readers for pushing me to learn this new skill because I have come to love it very much and my desire to improve so I can bring your more and better projects is at a fever pitch. Editorial over* These toys are all easy to make and, of course, quick. I was thoroughly addicted to the eggs and the bunny really helped me to branch out a bit while still staying in my comfort zone. I am ready to admit to my faulty gauge which is TIGHT so I used a bigger hook than called for (a J when the bunny pattern called for a H) but aside from the standards that came from learning, these were fun and great projects that I recommend to get you and yours ready for Easter.

First up are the Lion Brand Patterns: Best Bunny and Amigurumi Easter Eggs. These eggs will fly off your hook and crochet up in Baby Wool in Alpine Meadow makes them so soft to the touch, perfect for the littlest fingers to play with. The Alpine Meadow is variegated wool that blends from Yellow to Green to Blue lending itself perfectly to an appearance of a dyed Easter Egg. The recommended hook for the egg pattern is a G, but I had trouble with the first few rounds with a smaller hook given that the yarn was worsted weight so I, again, went with a J so help me with some extra wiggle room. The egg produced is about 15% bigger than a regular egg but still fun none the less. The bunny is crocheted in pieces and was made with Lion Brand Baby Wool in Sprout (a fun, bright green) and Lion Brand Vanna's Choice Baby Yarn in Mint. I had trouble with the first few rounds in the ears and arms since there were about 6 Sts or less. It seems really hard to fit in my hook but I guess I can chalk that up to my gauge and practice more. The bunny over all was easy and came together fast. He is a big hit with my 2 yr old and I think a few more lining her book shelves along with the eggs will really bring the holiday home.

The smaller eggs are Easy Makes Me Happy Tara Murray's Pattern called simply "Easter Egg Pattern" and it is also fun and easy. The construction is different than the Lion Brand egg which gives is a smaller but more egg-like shape. I also really dug Tara's inspiration pictures. I found this pattern on Ravelry while searching for Easter patterns that I could not live without. While I had already started the Lion Brand eggs when I found Tara Murray's pattern, I could not help myself and I am not at all sorry. These eggs were super fast and I even dared to add a little stripe (my first color change in crochet *pat on the back*) in Lion Brand Vanna's Choice Baby Yarn Berrylicious. I recommend this pattern for Easter egg fun-goodness.

You can follow my crochet frustrations and successes on Twitter, tdangermiller, and learn about yarn deals and steals by following fabric.com, fabricdotcom.

Spring is here but sometimes not. Here in Georgia, we are bouncing from warm weather to cool to downright chilly and back again. Some days spring weather is in your face and others have you wondering if you read the calendar wrong.  You must be prepared for days like these. It is a blessing that layering is in fashion and scarves are at the top of the list. The Swing Scarf is perfect for confusing spring days. Knit from Tahki Ripple in 100% Mercerized Cotton (a fiber treatment to increase the luster of the finished fiber), it is silky, shiny and soft. The hand is akin to well washed linen more than cotton. The pattern is made up of stockinette and lace mesh panels with a few purl rows thrown in for fun. The Swing Scarf is also knit on the bias to keep it interesting to knit and draws the eye when wearing. The ripples in the yarn also make this scarf more than ordinary. The stitch patterns are simple but the ripples create an illusion of more intricate patterns.

The Swing Scarf is a small scarf at just 3 ft. long but the length is just right for spring layers where you don't want to be too burdened or insulated. You can wrap it around your neck and allow the ends to cascade down your shoulders, you can tie it, knot it and tuck the ends into your jacket, or it also makes a fabulous sash for tunics. The Spring Scarf can also be called into duty as a poolside tie back for your hair. This Spring Scarf is knit in Tahki Ripple Taupe but I also recommend the Yellow, Rose and Teal for other spring versions of this scarf. While best worked in a cotton or linen for warm weather, the Swing Scarf will also look amazing in mohair, silk or alpaca for cool weather as well. Oh and this is a quick, fun knit!

Download your copy of the Free Swing Scarf Pattern here

Wow, this is really a versatile garment. It's great for all seasons! Not only is the style versatile- the fit is versatile as well. With a fantastic drape and trendy slouch fit, this vest is great for women of all shapes and sizes. This quick and easy project is a great addition to your wardrobe! What an added bonus that this Easy Breezy Knit Pattern from Hot Patterns is free! Free is always fashionable.

Because of the way this vest drapes, I chose this Sparkle Rayon Jersey Knit fabric to show off the shimmer of this jersey knit. For the contrasting fabric in the back, I chose a black lace fabric to allow my layers to show! I also wanted to make my vest a bit on the fancier side so I can dress it up or down.

I would advise cutting and sewing your neckline and armhole trim pieces last. Like the disclaimer on the pattern states, "not all knits are created equal," so you may have to elongate OR shorten the trim pieces. Before you sew, test out how much ease will be needed to attach the armholes and neckline trim- then make any adjustments needed. Because of the stretchy knit I chose for the armholes and neckline, I actually had to re-cut longer pieces of trim so that my garment would do right. Don't make my mistake! Measure twice- cut once. And sew once! Taking a seam out and re-stitching is a pain- avoid it if you can!

I love working with knits. Having a serger is definitely convenient for knit projects, BUT a stretch stitch on a standard machine works just as well, plus you don't have to worry about the inside of your seams unraveling! Happy sewing!