Knitting: January 2011 Archives

Meet the January Cropped Sweater. This is my solution when cold days meets flowy tunics that are all the rage these days. I was tired of my empire waist tunics and dresses bunching up or bulging under my sweaters and cardigans so I set out to design a sophisticated cropped sweater that could hold its own style-wise but no be so bold as to distract from the whole. The January sweater features a diagonal rib pattern boat neck and a zigzag pattern down the arm. Deep ribs hug the sweater to your figure so no waist shaping is needed. The deep ribs on the cuffs ensure that brisk winds won't creep up your sleeves. The sweater stops just at your natural waist so there is no need to worry about bunching of billowing blouses. The fitted nature of the sweater will keep you looking slim while accommodating trendy tunics and dresses. The details are subtle. The cropped sweater is knit with 4 balls Lion Brand Wool Ease Chunky, but with additional 2-3 balls you can increase the length of your sweater to waist length. If you want to add color you can opt for a color change for the neckline or just the cuffs. Go for coordinating colors like Dark Blue and Light Blue or something bolder: Light green and Teal. I have been sporting mine for a little over a week and it works really well for most of my wardrobe. The fitted nature also fits under all my coats without added bulk. I really enjoyed designing and knitting this sweater. The Chunky Yarn knit up quick and the added warmth was perfect during the recent snow storm.

The January Sweater is advanced beginner. You will need to be familiar with knitting in the round, increasing, decreasing and switching needle sizes. The pattern is simple to follow but you will need 4 balls of Lion Brand Wool Ease Chunky, sizes US 10, 10.5 & 11 needles, tapestry needle and waste yarn. If you want to make a full sweater, bump up your yarn to 6 balls. This sweater is best knit on Interchangeables to make the needle changes easier.  

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Danger craft's Tofu the Gently Dachshund pattern is one of those patterns that you just enjoy knitting from start to finish. All the little bits make it more fun. I also enjoy the assembly though finishing (weaving in end and seaming) is usually my least favorite. I decided to change up the pattern a little bit to model one of my dogs, Murphy. He is a short-haired border collie so a far cry from a dachshund but the modifications were small. First, I must expound on Murphy's virtues, namely how stinking cute he is (see him below). He has a very curly tail that even curls in his sleep. Murphy has black and white spotted socks that are often referred to as his spats. He even walks fancy. But Murphy's crowning glory is his wonky ears. One is always bent and the other is straight- most of the time. I point out all these magnificent characteristics because they are the traits I aimed to incorporate into my Tofu Dog. The changes were easy.

First: for the Murphy socks, I just randomly changed from Cast Iron (black) to white as I was knitting the legs and arms. I did not count but just changed when it felt right. To make his spots, I went back after I had knitted the body and arms and using duplicate stitching I added black spots wherever. For the curly tail, I knit as per the pattern but then I added a length of pipe cleaner inside so I could curl the tail up. The wonky ears were just a matter of shortening the pattern. Instead of increasing, I decreased and then knit a few rows and decreased again. To make one floppy, I bent the ear a bit and then secured it with a small stitch and then another lower down on the ear. I also stitched the ears on so they would sit up instead of handing down like a Dachshund's. Murphy has a long nose so I didn't change anything there. All in all I think he looks amazing and I know my little girl will love having a Murphy whose tail she CAN pull and ears she CAN inspect.

My next plan is to make another to match my other dog Maggie; she's an American Bulldog. The plan is to hold two strands so I can make the dog bigger. I will also add some short rows in the back because Maggie has a healthy rump. One ear will be orange and there will also be a curly tail but less so than Murphy's. I might also add some beans to add weight since Maggie, at 75 lbs, is quite stout and I think this is one of her finer points as well since you can't avoid noticing how heavy she is as she sits in your lap. I will let you know how it goes. I encourage you all to try this awesome pattern and make modifications to model your beloved dogs. Post your pictures on Facebook for all to see.

This pattern was knit in Berroco Vintage In Cast Iron and Vintage White. I have not added the eyes or nose yet because the little messmaker above is very intent right now on pulling things off and often they end up in the mouth or my stepping on them. 

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For the first few years of my knitting career, I believed that the only way to knit a circle smaller than 16 in.  was to use DPNs. I detested using DPNs and so would avoid all projects that required them. I missed out on many great patterns and many learning opportunities. I eventually caved and used DPNs but it was like getting a kid to clean their room on a sunny day. They avoid it and avoid it until they have to do it and it is no fun for anyone. One day, I stumbled upon magic loop. I was cruising blog land and came across a picture of a knitter whipping up socks while on a road trip. The picture showed the beginning of the socks being knit on one circular needle. I was shocked and excited! I ran to my favorite knitting forum (Knitty.com Coffeeshop) and posted a link to the picture and an urgent cry that I needed info on this technique with a quickness. 5 min later I had my answer: Magic Loop. The clouds parted, the sun shined down uponth my face and I heard the angels sing. I spent the night devouring all info on Magic Loop and practicing my heart out. It was awesome! And it is SO easy.

First you need some flexible, thin, long length cable needles (at least 32 in. long depending on the diameter of the project) like Hiya Interchangeables. Cast on the required number of stitches just as you would with straight knitting.

Scoot your sts down to the middle of cable and count out half of your sts (I cast on 16 so I counted to 8 sts). Fold the cable at the center of your Sts and slide each half of the Sts down a bit on either side of the center and pull the cable up, dividing your Sts.

Leave the Sts with the working yarn in the middle of the cable and slide the Sts without the working yarn to the needle. This is your left needle. Take up your right needle which will have no Sts on it and work the Sts from the left needle to your right. The other half of the Sts hangs out on the middle of the cable allowing them to stay close because of the flexible needle. 

Once you are done working the first half of the stitches, slide the unworked Sts to the empty needle and the worked Sts go to the center of the cable. Work the unworked Sts from the left needle to the right. Repeat the above steps until your project is the desired length.

I am in the middle of Danger Craft's Tofu pattern and so far I have knit the entire body, legs and arm on magic loop. It is my go to and so easy. I don't have to divide Sts among 3-4 needles. No need to jungle 4-5 needles and while I have lost many a DPN I have not yet lost an interchangeable. Magic Loop on Interchangeables also makes it easier to put my knitting away. I just twist off my needle and replace them with end caps. I never knew who to properly store and transport my DPNs without a needle sliding out. No project is avoided now!

Check out more small diameter knitting with more Danger Craft toys here.

You can follow us on Twitter! Get the scoop on Fabric.com Deals by following @fabricdotcom 
or you can get the inside scoop on my projects, see their progress and get extra tips and tricks by following me@tdangermiller

I have noticed among knitters and lay people alike that knitting is seriously considered a winter activity. Like geese flying south and bear hibernating, knitting is what is done indoors and in cold weather. Not for this knitter and not for many steady fast others who have turned to knitting as not just an activity to populate their closets but as therapy and way to keep a cultural tradition alive. I know that this may do little to sway some but perhaps with some inducement (a proverbial carrot dangling from a stick, if you will) you will be knitting by the pool this summer. 

The biggest hurdle appears to be, the yarn. NO ONE wants to touch wool, let alone think of it without sweat popping up all over, especially here in the south. Cotton, however, is at home in the heat. It's cooling and lightness has earned it the #1 spot in summer wear. With cotton, you don't need to lay your creative focus and stress relieving needles in with your winter wear. I love to put aside many of my favorite sweater patterns or those I have not yet had time to knit in the cold weather aside for spring time (or in many restaurants, offices, and movie theaters that think 60 deg is the ideal climate for patrons in summer) knitting. I can't stop knitting, even when it is too hot to go on. I love the feel of completing one more row, of reaching another point in the pattern to see how the author handles this increase or this cable turn. And I love completing a pattern, weaving in the ends and gloriously blocking it. Cotton allows me to continue knitting and wearing my creations year round.

I generally go for heavier weight cotton for spring (worsted and DK) and then towards lighter weights as the temperature goes up (sport and fingering). I try to start in Jan but sometimes hold out till February because it is still so cold here. But before long I am dreaming of humidity and can't wait to pull out my cotton yarns. I know by the time I am done the weather will be warm enough or I will be stubborn enough to wear it. The colors of cotton sing to me as well. I can't help but spurn the jewel tones of winter and find my shopping cart full of pinks, yellows and (my fave) bright grass green. I will often alter my patterns to accommodate the warmer weather by shortening the sleeves but often enough just changing from wool to cotton is enough to make any sweater perfect for warm weather. Though cardigans are my favorite because you can unbutton for breezes, pullovers work well for office wear, early morning walks and late night dates. I love knitting with cotton; it is forgiving, great for textures and the warm weather equivalent of wool.

Pictures: A delicious light green Peaches N Crème Cotton, Berroco Pima Cotton in Cantelope, Sweater knitted during lunches at fabric.com in Lion Brand Cotton Ease, Dishcloth knit in Peaches n Crème.  

You can follow us on Twitter! Get the scoop on Fabric.com Deals by following @fabricdotcom 
or you can get the inside scoop on my projects, see their progress and get extra tips and tricks by following me@tdangermiller

Often when you are finished knitting you find yourself with a piece that is not quite how you imagined or doesn't fit as well as you had hoped. All the knitting down the drain you think as you plan to frog your project. Wait- All you really need is to properly block your knitted project. Wet blocking will bring out the details in lace, adjust fitting issues and show off the cables to best effect. Wet blocking is simple and to those detail-oriented folks, immensely satisfying.

To start you will need:
 a big bowl or clean sink of cool water
 a dry towel bigger than your project (go for double the size)
 some T pins
 a ruler
 a blocking board

Start by fully submerging your knitting in the water and gently (especially for wool-you don't want to felt it) squeeze to saturate every fiber. You will probably see air bubbles escape. Then leave your knitting in the water for 20-30 min. Drain the sink or bowl slowly and then carefully squeeze out extra water. Don't wring the fabric, just lightly squeeze.

Lay out your towel on a flat surface and open it fully if needed to accommodate your project or fold it in half width wise for small pieces. Carefully lay out your piece on the towel and gently shape it so it is laying flat. Roll up your towel until the whole towel is rolled up. Apply gentle pressure to squeeze out as much moisture as possible. Unroll your towel and lift your piece on to your blocking board. Start by pinning the major corners or points of your piece  (for a shawl the top 2 corners, for a sweater the shoulders and neck line). Using a ruler gradually add more pins until your piece is fully pinned and shaped to your satisfaction.

Now comes the hard part: waiting. Put your blocking board in indirect light so it will not fade but will use the warmth to help it dry faster. You must wait until your piece is FULLY dry. Don't pull out those pins until you are very sure it is dry and then wait a little longer. The bigger the piece the longer the wait. It is worth the wait since you will be rewarded with a beautiful piece of knitting that fit better and looks amazing. 

Deep into winter as we are (some more so than others) I think it is essential to arm all knitters with a good hat. Hats are my favorite to knit because they are so warm/comfy and quick/easy. Usually once I get quite bored with knitting them it is time to start the decreases and then the hat is done. Knitted hats come in all shapes, designs and colors but they all start with a basic pattern. I will share mine with you.

First choose your yarn. It is most important to start with the yarn though you may have a basic idea of how you want your hat to look in the end- it all depends on the yarn. You may want a chunky hat with a cable but first you must know your yarn so you may base your math and needle size from the yarn. Next, using the needle size suggested on the ball band, knit a 4 in. by 4 in. swatch. Once complete, take a good long look at your swatch. Does it give the stitch definition you are looking for? Is the fabric thick enough? Will it give you the look you want? If the answer to any of these is no, consider switching your yarn. A smoother yarn will give better definition- essential for cable and textured stitches. If you fabric is not thick or dense enough go for a smaller needle. Next, count your gauge and multiply it out to the circumference of your head or the head of the hat wearer. My head is 22 in. around, for example, and with a chunky yarn giving me 12 Sts over 4 in. means I must cast on 66 Sts for a hat.

Now if you have a chosen stitch pattern that you want to incorporate you must accommodate this into your cast-on. Say, I want to use a lace pattern that repeats over 14 Sts. I start by dividing 66 by 14 and get 4.71. Rounding up to 5 means that I will have 5 repeats of the pattern if I cast-on 70 Sts. Adding the extra 4 Sts will only increase my hat circumference by roughly 1 in. If this is an issue you can always add on a ribbing with a smaller needle before starting the lace. The ribbing knit with a smaller needle will make the hat a little tighter along the bottom edge.

Knit until you reach the crown of your head (for me this is 7 in.) and then it is time to start your decreases. I prefer to make mine even across the stitch count and widely spaced so it will not distract from the patterns. A k2tog decrease gives a nice dome shape that will fit your head very well. To determine where to place your decrease you must divide into your stitch count and determine the highest number available to fit your pattern. Given the example above, I could divide 70 by 10 which would give me 7 decreases or I could divide by 14 which would give me 5 decreases. I would choose the 5 decreases since it would blend in with my lace pattern which has 5 pattern repeats.  I would then *knit (in pattern) 12 sts, k2tog and repeat from * to the end of the round (12 sts plus the 2 in the K2tog gives 14). The next round would be knit in pattern without decrease.Each decrease round subtract 1 from the knitted stitches: 2nd decrease round knit 11 sts then k2tog, 3rd decrease round knit 10 then k2tog, etc) Decreasing and then skipping a round gives a nice gradual crown that fits the head smoothly and comfortably. I would repeat these 2 rounds until I was k2tog the whole round. Then, you break the yarn leaving an 8 in. tail. Using your tapestry needle, weave the tail though the remaining loops following the direction of knitting and pull tight. Turn your hat inside out and weave this tail into the hat to secure the end.

Your hat is now finished! You can use this basic hat pattern to make any number of hats in any design or fashion. It is a trusted and true pattern that has served me well. Pass it on!

You can follow us on Twitter! Get the scoop on Fabric.com Deals by following @fabricdotcom 
or you can get the inside scoop on my projects, see their progress and get extra tips and tricks by following me@tdangermiller

I've crocheted since I was 8. I figured it was close enough to knitting- good enough to make scarves and hats. I was content with sticking in my own little crochet world. Since working here, I've come in contact with so many wonderful yarns, patterns and knitters. Knitting has been a goal of mine for a while, so what better way to start than to make it a New Year's Resolution!

Knowing that I already enjoy crocheting, I figured I'd take to knitting pretty easily. The only aspect of knitting that is overwhelming to me is the amount of stitches and terms that exist! I tend to jump in head first to something and just hopefully figure it out along the way. So I figured, why not changing this behavior a new year's resolution too? So in regards to my projects, I want to learn how to do things the right way, the first time. A solid foundation is the key to anything right?

I picked a bulky, light colored yarn so I could see that fibers. I chose this Lion Brand Wool-Ease Thick & Quick Yarn  in "Fisherman" and paired it with these large size 13 Lantern Moon palm wood knitting needles. I figured the bigger the better for starters. The next part was figuring out what the best approach was to learning the basics. I need something I could pause and re-watch as many times as needed, like this I Can't Believe I'm Knitting DVD Kit. So I picked up "casting on" and then a basic knit stitch pretty quickly. I then practiced the stockinette stitch and the purl stitch. I'm still trying to figure out which loop goes where in order to get which one, so I just keep doing a trial and error. The hardest part so far, is figuring out the best way to hold my yarn as I go. I have noticed that it is harder than crocheting to redo your work, so I'm just going to keep practicing these 3 stitches till my yarn runs out. Luckily for me, I like the inconsistency in whatever it is I'm making here...maybe a cowl scarf if I can somehow join to the ends?

This new hobby is very exciting. I can't wait till my first knitted project is done so I can move on to the next one. Even browsing Fabric.com's selection of knitting books is causing my mind to race. So many more options! I still love crocheting, but so far knitting is very awesome.