Holly: March 2013 Archives
Every year, I churn out a handful of skirts and dresses out of cotton prints for warm-weather dressing, just to keep some fresh pieces in my wardrobe rotation. But I always hate hemming those projects. Even a simple hem just irritates me. (Do you hear me, magic sewing elves?) To keep things interesting this year, I decided to work some faced hems into the process to add some new shapes to the bottom of my garments.
For my first hem, I made a quick shape template card. To get started on it, I first marked out two 4-inch segments on the edge of a piece of heavy paper.
And this is the hem on the finished skirt. I used McCall's 6706 for both this skirt and the next one.
This is a better view of the scallops. You might have noticed that my fabric is actually upside down. Since the snail detail is subtle, I decided it would be fine to flip it. Also, this way it's right-side up to me when I look down at my skirt. When stitching down the facing, I followed the fabric design again to minimize visibility of the stitching.
And here's the skirt I used my template on, out of After Dark from Alexander Henry. I know this might not be a spring print for everybody, but I celebrate Halloween year-round, so it's perfect for me!
Here's the curved-pointed hem. Unlike the snail print skirt, I just stitched the facing with a straight line around the hem so you can see the difference. Since this print has a lot of visually-heavy design elements, I don't think the black stitching stands out all that much.
Shaped and geometric hems can be a fun way to shake up the finish on your garments. They're great for kids clothes, and you don't have to stick to skirts -- pants and shorts can get shaped hems, too. Any shape you like can be used, as long as you can repeat it. Triangular zig-zags, squares, asymmetric curves -- anything goes!
For my first hem, I made a quick shape template card. To get started on it, I first marked out two 4-inch segments on the edge of a piece of heavy paper.
Next, I used a saucer to fill in the spaces between my marks with a curve.
Here's the paper with the curves drawn in. Next, I cut out those curved segments.
I used the cut template to trace the curves onto my fabric with a fabric marking pen, working my way around the bottom edge of the garment.
Then, I just stitched along those drawn lines with a facing along the bottom edge, right sides together. Then I just clipped my curves, turned my facing, and gave the hem a good pressing. I used the selvedge edge of my facing fabric -- which is just a solid quilting cotton -- so I don't have to worry about a raw edge. Then I stitched along the edge of the facing to finish my shaped hem.
Depending on your fabric, you may not need to make a template for tracing. For my second go at shaped hems, I just followed the line of the fabric's design, which I could see from the wrong side of the fabric, to stitch the facing to the hem.
Here you can see the stitching along the curves of the Prince Charming Snail Scallop print. (I am crazy in love with Tula Pink prints.)
Again, I just clipped my curves before flipping my facing.
Here's the facing pressed to the back of the hem:
Here's the paper with the curves drawn in. Next, I cut out those curved segments.I used the cut template to trace the curves onto my fabric with a fabric marking pen, working my way around the bottom edge of the garment.Then, I just stitched along those drawn lines with a facing along the bottom edge, right sides together. Then I just clipped my curves, turned my facing, and gave the hem a good pressing. I used the selvedge edge of my facing fabric -- which is just a solid quilting cotton -- so I don't have to worry about a raw edge. Then I stitched along the edge of the facing to finish my shaped hem.Depending on your fabric, you may not need to make a template for tracing. For my second go at shaped hems, I just followed the line of the fabric's design, which I could see from the wrong side of the fabric, to stitch the facing to the hem. Here you can see the stitching along the curves of the Prince Charming Snail Scallop print. (I am crazy in love with Tula Pink prints.)Again, I just clipped my curves before flipping my facing.Here's the facing pressed to the back of the hem:And this is the hem on the finished skirt. I used McCall's 6706 for both this skirt and the next one.
This is a better view of the scallops. You might have noticed that my fabric is actually upside down. Since the snail detail is subtle, I decided it would be fine to flip it. Also, this way it's right-side up to me when I look down at my skirt. When stitching down the facing, I followed the fabric design again to minimize visibility of the stitching.And here's the skirt I used my template on, out of After Dark from Alexander Henry. I know this might not be a spring print for everybody, but I celebrate Halloween year-round, so it's perfect for me! Here's the curved-pointed hem. Unlike the snail print skirt, I just stitched the facing with a straight line around the hem so you can see the difference. Since this print has a lot of visually-heavy design elements, I don't think the black stitching stands out all that much.Shaped and geometric hems can be a fun way to shake up the finish on your garments. They're great for kids clothes, and you don't have to stick to skirts -- pants and shorts can get shaped hems, too. Any shape you like can be used, as long as you can repeat it. Triangular zig-zags, squares, asymmetric curves -- anything goes!
Thanks to the collegiate Greek world, there's a new trend in T-shirt makeovers. It's called a frocket (a contraction of "fraternity" and "pocket"), and it's the replacement (or addition) of a chest pocket on a shirt with one made of another fabric. Members of sororities or fraternities normally have Green letters on theirs, but you don't have to be in any club to make your own version. It's an easy way to add personal flair to a basic shirt, so have at it! It's also a great way to make use of the stash.
Here's how I made mine:
First, I sketched out the dimensions I wanted for the finished pocket. I also marked dots 1/4 inch out from the finished size to use as guides to create my cutting size that will include seam allowance.
Next, using my dots as a guide for my ruler placement, I drew in the seam allowance lines to create the size I will actually cut.
Here's the pocket on my shirt. I place mine a little high when I'm adding them to fitted shirts, because I don't like the way lower placement looks on the bust line.
Here's a closeup of a pocket so you can see the stitching pattern. I first run a line of stitching about 1/4 inch in from the edge, turning at the top corners and then moving to the outside edge, where I stay as close to the edge as possible. This also closes up the opening I left in the turned pocket earlier.
Here's my Star Wars print on my shirt. Can't wait to wear it!
Don't forget, these pockets can be your tiny canvases! You can add trim, hot fix crystals or appliques. Since they're small, even if you make an irretrievable mistake, it's not the end of the world. Just make another! For this next one, I combined a striped suiting fabric with an overlay of striped grosgrain ribbon.
Of course, I couldn't stay away from my licensed print stash. This project is a great way to dress up kids' shirts, or to make coordinated sleep sets -- just make the pajama pants from your print, and add a custom pocket to a matching shirt. You can make gifts completely tailored to the receiver's taste!
For one pajama top, I chose a ribbed tank top. If you do the same, you might want to stretch your top out under the pocket a little, since the knit on these types of shirts is often stretchier than a normal T-shirt.
And last, one with a little skull action. This also makes me think about making holiday versions (it's NEVER too early to get started on Halloween).
While I stuck with cotton prints, you can use almost any fabric you like -- just make sure it's machine washable, and prewash both the fabric and the shirt to avoid post-laundering puckers.
I bet you have a cherished little scrap of something just perfect for a project like this!
Here's how I made mine:
First, I sketched out the dimensions I wanted for the finished pocket. I also marked dots 1/4 inch out from the finished size to use as guides to create my cutting size that will include seam allowance.
Next, using my dots as a guide for my ruler placement, I drew in the seam allowance lines to create the size I will actually cut.With the extra paper trimmed away, my simple little pattern is ready to go.
For each pocket, I cut two pieces of my fashion fabric -- I stuck with cotton prints -- and stitched them right-sides together, leaving an opening on one side to turn it right side out.
Once I clipped the corners, I turned it and gave it a hard press with the iron. You could, of course, use a single layer of fabric, hem the top and fold in the raw edges. I like to use the two-layer method because I don't have to worry about keeping raw edges tucked under, and the extra body help the pocket keep its shape.
Once I clipped the corners, I turned it and gave it a hard press with the iron. You could, of course, use a single layer of fabric, hem the top and fold in the raw edges. I like to use the two-layer method because I don't have to worry about keeping raw edges tucked under, and the extra body help the pocket keep its shape.Here's the pocket on my shirt. I place mine a little high when I'm adding them to fitted shirts, because I don't like the way lower placement looks on the bust line. Here's a closeup of a pocket so you can see the stitching pattern. I first run a line of stitching about 1/4 inch in from the edge, turning at the top corners and then moving to the outside edge, where I stay as close to the edge as possible. This also closes up the opening I left in the turned pocket earlier.Here's my Star Wars print on my shirt. Can't wait to wear it!Don't forget, these pockets can be your tiny canvases! You can add trim, hot fix crystals or appliques. Since they're small, even if you make an irretrievable mistake, it's not the end of the world. Just make another! For this next one, I combined a striped suiting fabric with an overlay of striped grosgrain ribbon.Of course, I couldn't stay away from my licensed print stash. This project is a great way to dress up kids' shirts, or to make coordinated sleep sets -- just make the pajama pants from your print, and add a custom pocket to a matching shirt. You can make gifts completely tailored to the receiver's taste!For one pajama top, I chose a ribbed tank top. If you do the same, you might want to stretch your top out under the pocket a little, since the knit on these types of shirts is often stretchier than a normal T-shirt.And last, one with a little skull action. This also makes me think about making holiday versions (it's NEVER too early to get started on Halloween).While I stuck with cotton prints, you can use almost any fabric you like -- just make sure it's machine washable, and prewash both the fabric and the shirt to avoid post-laundering puckers.
I bet you have a cherished little scrap of something just perfect for a project like this!
It's no secret that I love to sew, but I also love gardening -- and roses are my absolute favorite things to grow. As I type this, Atlanta is in the midst of what seems like a never-ending winter. It's cold and wet out. We were teased with warmer temps for a bit, but then the cold came back to laugh at us. And my rose bushes might be a little confused. They have some new growth developing and they're quite hardy, but I feel like we'll NEVER get blossoms at this rate.
So I decided to make my own, and put them on a purse!
A while back, we had a blog post from Melanie on making roses with fabric or ribbon. I followed her directions exactly, omitting the floral wire and floral tape, and using a needle and thread to tack things together as I went. I used bias cuts of charmeuse satin. To add texture to about half of my flowers, I layered bias cuts of mirror organza on the dull side and then treated the two layers as one.
Once I had a handful of tiny blooms, I gathered together the supplies for the rest of my simple handbag.
I cut the following pieces:
- 2 pieces of my exterior fabric (a yummy dupioni remnant I've had in my stash for years) 12 by 10 inches
- 2 interfacing pieces in the same size (mine is a solid twill)
- 2 lining pieces in the same size (I used the same charmeuse I used for my roses)
- 2 handle pieces in my exterior fabric, 2.5 by 20 inches
- 2 interfacing pieces for handles in same size
I also used a 14-inch zipper (which was a little long, so I trimmed it after stitching).
I set in my zipper by sandwiching it between my dupioni (with interfacing at the back) and my lining, and stitching the seam. Then I opened it up, pressed, and top-stitched along the zipper. For a more detailed description of this process, check out our blog on shaving kits from scraps.
Here's the bag with zipper set in, laid out flat:
Next, I attached the handles. I just stitched the handles into a long tube (having basted the interfacing twill to the dupioni already), then turned and top-stitched them. I measured in 3 inches from each side and about 1.5 inches down from the zipper and stitched the handle ends in place securely.
Then I folded the bag-in-progress right sides together (with the zipper open for turning), and stitched all around the outer edges. To give the bottom of the bag some shape, I folded the seam into a corner and stitched across it.
Here's the bag turned right-side-out:
Before I started playing with the placement of my roses, I slipped a box into my bag to fill out the bottom space and give me a sturdy surface to work on.
Then, I just set my flowers on the bag in different ways until I landed at a placement I liked. After trying out some symmetrical ideas, I settled on a much more organic and less structured approach.
Then, I just stitched my roses into place, keeping them clustered tightly. (You could also use glue!)
And now, I have a little something to tide me over until my real roses are ready to bloom! This could also be made in smaller sizes for kids playing dress up, or in ultra-elegant all black with additional embellishment. You could cover the entire bag with blooms, or just make one large blossom as an accent. A garden of multicolored flowers would also be ultra-fun. (And if you're like me, you'll end up making a few extra roses to use as hair accessories.)
So I decided to make my own, and put them on a purse!
A while back, we had a blog post from Melanie on making roses with fabric or ribbon. I followed her directions exactly, omitting the floral wire and floral tape, and using a needle and thread to tack things together as I went. I used bias cuts of charmeuse satin. To add texture to about half of my flowers, I layered bias cuts of mirror organza on the dull side and then treated the two layers as one.
Once I had a handful of tiny blooms, I gathered together the supplies for the rest of my simple handbag.
I cut the following pieces:
- 2 pieces of my exterior fabric (a yummy dupioni remnant I've had in my stash for years) 12 by 10 inches
- 2 interfacing pieces in the same size (mine is a solid twill)
- 2 lining pieces in the same size (I used the same charmeuse I used for my roses)
- 2 handle pieces in my exterior fabric, 2.5 by 20 inches
- 2 interfacing pieces for handles in same size
I also used a 14-inch zipper (which was a little long, so I trimmed it after stitching).
I set in my zipper by sandwiching it between my dupioni (with interfacing at the back) and my lining, and stitching the seam. Then I opened it up, pressed, and top-stitched along the zipper. For a more detailed description of this process, check out our blog on shaving kits from scraps.Here's the bag with zipper set in, laid out flat:
Next, I attached the handles. I just stitched the handles into a long tube (having basted the interfacing twill to the dupioni already), then turned and top-stitched them. I measured in 3 inches from each side and about 1.5 inches down from the zipper and stitched the handle ends in place securely.Then I folded the bag-in-progress right sides together (with the zipper open for turning), and stitched all around the outer edges. To give the bottom of the bag some shape, I folded the seam into a corner and stitched across it.Here's the bag turned right-side-out:Before I started playing with the placement of my roses, I slipped a box into my bag to fill out the bottom space and give me a sturdy surface to work on.Then, I just set my flowers on the bag in different ways until I landed at a placement I liked. After trying out some symmetrical ideas, I settled on a much more organic and less structured approach. Then, I just stitched my roses into place, keeping them clustered tightly. (You could also use glue!)And now, I have a little something to tide me over until my real roses are ready to bloom! This could also be made in smaller sizes for kids playing dress up, or in ultra-elegant all black with additional embellishment. You could cover the entire bag with blooms, or just make one large blossom as an accent. A garden of multicolored flowers would also be ultra-fun. (And if you're like me, you'll end up making a few extra roses to use as hair accessories.)
I'm on a crazy accessory kick lately. I want all kinds of options to dress up casual outfits. Recently, I happened to notice a remnant of ruffle knit dangling off the edge of my cutting table, and I was struck by the way it draped. I thought it would make a super fun scarf.
This project is two of my favorite things: ultra easy, and super quick!
To start, I simply cut a length across the width of the fabric, from selvedge edge to selvedge edge. You want to make sure you cut in between ruffles, along one line, and leave yourself as much flat fabric as you can for seam allowance.
I cut my piece about 8 inches wide, but you can cut yours wider or narrower -- it just depends on what you like.
I folded it in half to form a long tube and stitched along the length of it, keeping the ruffles free from my seam, and then turned it right side out. Since the open ends are the selvedge edge, I didn't bother to stitch them closed.
I made a second one with a zebra print ruffle knit (how could I resist?) and cut it a little wider.
I also wanted to try one with the ruffles running horizontally, instead of along the length of the scarf. For this one, I cut two pieces and joined them in the center so that the ruffles would be hanging in the same direction when I'm wearing the scarf.
Here's a closeup of the scarf, so you can see the center seam where the ruffles mirror each other.
This is another one of those projects that I plan to make in batches so I have them at the ready for giftmergencies. I may even give these out as party favors -- they're so fast and easy, I can easily churn out 10 in an afternoon. Instant style!
This project is two of my favorite things: ultra easy, and super quick!
To start, I simply cut a length across the width of the fabric, from selvedge edge to selvedge edge. You want to make sure you cut in between ruffles, along one line, and leave yourself as much flat fabric as you can for seam allowance.
I cut my piece about 8 inches wide, but you can cut yours wider or narrower -- it just depends on what you like.
I folded it in half to form a long tube and stitched along the length of it, keeping the ruffles free from my seam, and then turned it right side out. Since the open ends are the selvedge edge, I didn't bother to stitch them closed. I made a second one with a zebra print ruffle knit (how could I resist?) and cut it a little wider. I also wanted to try one with the ruffles running horizontally, instead of along the length of the scarf. For this one, I cut two pieces and joined them in the center so that the ruffles would be hanging in the same direction when I'm wearing the scarf.
Here's a closeup of the scarf, so you can see the center seam where the ruffles mirror each other.This is another one of those projects that I plan to make in batches so I have them at the ready for giftmergencies. I may even give these out as party favors -- they're so fast and easy, I can easily churn out 10 in an afternoon. Instant style!
I've been kind of lace-obsessed lately. After making lace crowns and lace T-shirt inserts, I wanted more! Since spring is almost here (I couldn't be more thankful) and we're heading into wedding season, I thought it would be fun to make some layered lace skirts. I love tone-on-tone use of lace, but I really wanted to play with color and contrast.
For my first skirt, I selected a Scalloped Lace in black, and layered it over lipstick pink Stretch Peau de Soie Satin. Black and pink is my usual go-to color combo, so those choices were no-brainers.
I didn't use a pattern for this; I just made a basic rectangle skirt and pleated it into the waist band. Since the lace's scalloped edge is cut as the hem, this one goes together quite quickly.
For my first skirt, I selected a Scalloped Lace in black, and layered it over lipstick pink Stretch Peau de Soie Satin. Black and pink is my usual go-to color combo, so those choices were no-brainers.
I didn't use a pattern for this; I just made a basic rectangle skirt and pleated it into the waist band. Since the lace's scalloped edge is cut as the hem, this one goes together quite quickly. I wanted to step away from black for my second skirt and test out a combination of girlie, springtime colors. I settled on a yellow Mi Amor Duchess Satin for the under layer, and Bella Sheer Lace Rosette in fuchsia, and opted for a simple circle skirt to take advantage of the lace's pretty, swirling design.
I wanted to go ultra girly with this one, so I decided to try a detail I saw in a book several years ago. I cut bias strips about 1.75 inches wide, and then gathered them in one long continuous ruffle.
I stitched the ruffle onto the under layer so that one edge aligned with the hem.
This helps to make the lace layer look super floaty. I might have to host a springtime party just to wear this one!
I keep thinking about how perfect it would be to use layered lace skirts as separates for a bridal party. You'd be able to really customize the color, stay on-trend, and make something that's got post-wedding wearability. You can use almost any pattern and just incorporate lace as an over layer. You can keep the hems separate to create a floaty feel, or treat the layers as one piece for a more structured look. Since it looks as though lace will continue its popularity streak through this year's warm months, you've got time to design your perfect look!
I wanted to go ultra girly with this one, so I decided to try a detail I saw in a book several years ago. I cut bias strips about 1.75 inches wide, and then gathered them in one long continuous ruffle.
I stitched the ruffle onto the under layer so that one edge aligned with the hem.This helps to make the lace layer look super floaty. I might have to host a springtime party just to wear this one!
I keep thinking about how perfect it would be to use layered lace skirts as separates for a bridal party. You'd be able to really customize the color, stay on-trend, and make something that's got post-wedding wearability. You can use almost any pattern and just incorporate lace as an over layer. You can keep the hems separate to create a floaty feel, or treat the layers as one piece for a more structured look. Since it looks as though lace will continue its popularity streak through this year's warm months, you've got time to design your perfect look!
I
don't know about you, but I am SO READY for a spring wardrobe makeover. It's
mostly wishful thinking, hoping that prepping for warmer temps will manifest
that weather, but even if I have more winter to look forward to, changing up
some of the closet is a nice escape.
I like to stay current with trends, but I don't like to spend a boatload of money to do it. As part of my spring prep, I decided to upgrade some existing pieces with that still-popular and ultra-feminine trend: lace!
I started this project with three basic T-shirts and an assortment of lace trim, and decided to add little inserts to each of the shirts.
For my white shirt, I selected this sweet floral lace trim and decided to add it in at the shoulder seams and hem.
I first cut open my shoulder seam from the hem of the sleeve right up through the neck edge, using the existing shoulder seam as a line guide.
I picked out the extra seam allowance fabric that was left at the shoulder seams to eliminate bulk.
Note:
If you get a little overzealous in your seam ripping, you might open up the
sleeve seam in the process! No worries -- it's nothing that a quick bit of
machine stitching can't fix.
Next, I just overlapped the edge of the lace onto the cut edge of the shirt, and straight-stitched it in place. Since the knit doesn't fray, there's no need to edge finish before this step.
I joined my lace to the other cute edge the same way, and voila -- my shirt is more ladylike!
Here's
the little inset along the hem of the shirt:
For my black shirt, I wanted to add a little peek-a-boo length to the sleeves, so I first cut the sleeve hems off.
Then, I used the same stitching technique to reattach the sleeve that I used to join the cut shoulder sections above.
I opted to use this more open lace trim for this one, because it sits in a place where it doesn't have to obscure a bra or camisole strap.
For
my final shirt, I used a much narrower black
lace for my trim. I cut out the armsceye seams on the shirt and then
rejoined the sleeves to the body of the garment using the lace insert. Because
the lace is fairly narrow, the fabric is almost abutted -- I could have just
stitched the lace over the existing seam (this lace is also quite dense, so
there's not much see-through factor), but I removed the factory stitching to
reduce bulk.
I also added an asymmetrical bit of trim on one hip, and a circle of lace at the neckline.
I can't wait to pair my newly made-over shirts with spring and summer skirts! In the meantime, I'll probably layer them with jackets and cords, trousers, or jeans. While I stuck with plain shirts, you can of course use the same approach to customize a beloved TARDIS or Hello Kitty shirt as well. Classy or cute, lace can add the perfect feminine touch to almost any shirt.
I like to stay current with trends, but I don't like to spend a boatload of money to do it. As part of my spring prep, I decided to upgrade some existing pieces with that still-popular and ultra-feminine trend: lace!
I started this project with three basic T-shirts and an assortment of lace trim, and decided to add little inserts to each of the shirts.
For my white shirt, I selected this sweet floral lace trim and decided to add it in at the shoulder seams and hem.
I first cut open my shoulder seam from the hem of the sleeve right up through the neck edge, using the existing shoulder seam as a line guide.
I picked out the extra seam allowance fabric that was left at the shoulder seams to eliminate bulk.
Note:
If you get a little overzealous in your seam ripping, you might open up the
sleeve seam in the process! No worries -- it's nothing that a quick bit of
machine stitching can't fix.Next, I just overlapped the edge of the lace onto the cut edge of the shirt, and straight-stitched it in place. Since the knit doesn't fray, there's no need to edge finish before this step.
I joined my lace to the other cute edge the same way, and voila -- my shirt is more ladylike!
Here's
the little inset along the hem of the shirt:For my black shirt, I wanted to add a little peek-a-boo length to the sleeves, so I first cut the sleeve hems off.
Then, I used the same stitching technique to reattach the sleeve that I used to join the cut shoulder sections above.
I opted to use this more open lace trim for this one, because it sits in a place where it doesn't have to obscure a bra or camisole strap.
For
my final shirt, I used a much narrower black
lace for my trim. I cut out the armsceye seams on the shirt and then
rejoined the sleeves to the body of the garment using the lace insert. Because
the lace is fairly narrow, the fabric is almost abutted -- I could have just
stitched the lace over the existing seam (this lace is also quite dense, so
there's not much see-through factor), but I removed the factory stitching to
reduce bulk.I also added an asymmetrical bit of trim on one hip, and a circle of lace at the neckline.
I can't wait to pair my newly made-over shirts with spring and summer skirts! In the meantime, I'll probably layer them with jackets and cords, trousers, or jeans. While I stuck with plain shirts, you can of course use the same approach to customize a beloved TARDIS or Hello Kitty shirt as well. Classy or cute, lace can add the perfect feminine touch to almost any shirt.
