Holly: February 2013 Archives
Lace crowns are experiencing a serious uptick in popularity right now -- and why not? They're darling! They also combine the best elements of princess style, DIY and shabby chic. Bonus appeal: you can probably find some bits of lace trim long enough to start this project already lurking in your stash.
This project is pretty easy, though there is some mess involved. First off, you have to soak your lace trim in fabric stiffener for a little while. This photo shows me dragging my lace through the stiffener to make sure it got fully coated before I mushed the whole piece into the liquid.
Once your lace is well-coated with fabric stiffener, you just need to squeezed out any excess and lay it flat. Remember to protect your work area with a non-porous covering -- I just used a trash bag.
Here is a piece of dry lace next to the wet, stiffener soaked piece, just so you get a sense of what to expect:
Unlike the photo above, you'll probably want to have multiple pieces drying at once so you can optimize your time.
Once your lace is fully dry, you can start playing! (Note: If your lace is dry but not as stiff as you'd like, you can apply another coat of fabric stiffener, I just brush it on in this case, being careful not to let the liquid collect in the gaps of the lace.)
If you're making full-circle crowns, you'll need to close them up. Some people use glue here, but I like to stitch mine. Either way works just fine. You want to overlap your ends a little, and if possible, line up the repeat design of your lace to hide the join.
Once your crown is sewn or glued into its circle shape, you can paint it any color you like! You can use spray paint or craft paint with a brush (again, be careful to keep the paint from filling in the holes in your lace and obscuring the design). Here's a mini-crown, painted purple:
The best thing about this project, to me, is how creative you can be with embellishments. For this full-size crown, I kept it simple, and just painted it silver and added a sparkly pin from my jewelry drawer:
You can also coat your crown with a thin layer of Mod Podge and apply glitter:
Only have a small amount of a lace trim, but you love it and want to make something out of it? No problem! Just make a tiara instead of a crown:
This project is pretty easy, though there is some mess involved. First off, you have to soak your lace trim in fabric stiffener for a little while. This photo shows me dragging my lace through the stiffener to make sure it got fully coated before I mushed the whole piece into the liquid.
Once your lace is well-coated with fabric stiffener, you just need to squeezed out any excess and lay it flat. Remember to protect your work area with a non-porous covering -- I just used a trash bag.Here is a piece of dry lace next to the wet, stiffener soaked piece, just so you get a sense of what to expect:Unlike the photo above, you'll probably want to have multiple pieces drying at once so you can optimize your time.Once your lace is fully dry, you can start playing! (Note: If your lace is dry but not as stiff as you'd like, you can apply another coat of fabric stiffener, I just brush it on in this case, being careful not to let the liquid collect in the gaps of the lace.)
If you're making full-circle crowns, you'll need to close them up. Some people use glue here, but I like to stitch mine. Either way works just fine. You want to overlap your ends a little, and if possible, line up the repeat design of your lace to hide the join.
Once your crown is sewn or glued into its circle shape, you can paint it any color you like! You can use spray paint or craft paint with a brush (again, be careful to keep the paint from filling in the holes in your lace and obscuring the design). Here's a mini-crown, painted purple:The best thing about this project, to me, is how creative you can be with embellishments. For this full-size crown, I kept it simple, and just painted it silver and added a sparkly pin from my jewelry drawer:You can also coat your crown with a thin layer of Mod Podge and apply glitter:Only have a small amount of a lace trim, but you love it and want to make something out of it? No problem! Just make a tiara instead of a crown:For the tiara, I tacked each end of my lace to a headband with a series of small stitches, and then put a daub of glue over the stitching for extra security. This can be worn tiara-style as shown above, or as a fancy headband by situating it so the lace sits flat against your head. I embellished this one with a few hot fix crystals.
And then, my favorite variation on the lace crown project -- tiny crown fascinators:
Like the tiara, these are just attached to a headband with small stitches and glue. These two are painted with pink and purple paint with a bit of glitter mixed in, and then embellished with rhinestones. (I am clearly madly in love with my hot fix applicator.)
There are so many more ways to play with this project! You could add buttons, ribbon, fabric flowers -- anything that will glue or sew on is fair game! You could make these up as amazing favors for a princess party -- or just make the basic crowns and let the princesses decorate them. It's a really inexpensive project, so you can experiment and play with a bunch of designs without worrying to much about cost or waste. That's a good thing, because I already have a bunch of ideas for my next batch ...
And then, my favorite variation on the lace crown project -- tiny crown fascinators:Like the tiara, these are just attached to a headband with small stitches and glue. These two are painted with pink and purple paint with a bit of glitter mixed in, and then embellished with rhinestones. (I am clearly madly in love with my hot fix applicator.) There are so many more ways to play with this project! You could add buttons, ribbon, fabric flowers -- anything that will glue or sew on is fair game! You could make these up as amazing favors for a princess party -- or just make the basic crowns and let the princesses decorate them. It's a really inexpensive project, so you can experiment and play with a bunch of designs without worrying to much about cost or waste. That's a good thing, because I already have a bunch of ideas for my next batch ...
As a lover of tea parties, I am always on the prowl for fun apron patterns. The Hot Patterns Sweet Nothings free download enchanted me from the start. It conjures instant images of baking lovely cupcakes with sugar sprinkles and casting chocolate candies ... all while wearing a tiara, of course.
For my first go at this one, I decided to use an old Disney print that I had squirreled away and a coordinating fabric from the same group. Since Princess Tiana is a chef, she seemed like the natural choice for an apron. The pattern is simple and takes very little fabric. I ended up piecing my ruffle and tie cuts (instead of cutting them in long, continuous pieces), because my fabric was a little spare. Worked out just fine!
I love the adjustable neck tie on this pattern -- if I ever have small chefs visiting, I can easily tie it to work for them!
For my second version, I decided to change the shape of the bib and pockets. Instead of using the heart motif, I decided to expand the bib to be more rectangular, and take the curves off the tops of the pockets. Here's how I cut the bib around the existing pattern piece:
And here's how I cut the pockets:
I pulled from the stash again on this one, choosing a damask cotton print for the main apron, a contrast stripe for the ties, and lace yardage for the ruffle details.
You can see in this shot that I'm a little askew in my pocket placement here. Whoops!
I am ready for baking!
It's so easy to whip this apron up, and the retro feel of it is right on trend. Since you can easily make changes to the pattern, it can be customized to fit any style -- a perfect gift for a chef of almost any size. You could make several for a cooking party, or customize for any holiday. Get the free pattern download here, and get cookin'!
For my first go at this one, I decided to use an old Disney print that I had squirreled away and a coordinating fabric from the same group. Since Princess Tiana is a chef, she seemed like the natural choice for an apron. The pattern is simple and takes very little fabric. I ended up piecing my ruffle and tie cuts (instead of cutting them in long, continuous pieces), because my fabric was a little spare. Worked out just fine!
I love the adjustable neck tie on this pattern -- if I ever have small chefs visiting, I can easily tie it to work for them!For my second version, I decided to change the shape of the bib and pockets. Instead of using the heart motif, I decided to expand the bib to be more rectangular, and take the curves off the tops of the pockets. Here's how I cut the bib around the existing pattern piece:
And here's how I cut the pockets:I pulled from the stash again on this one, choosing a damask cotton print for the main apron, a contrast stripe for the ties, and lace yardage for the ruffle details.You can see in this shot that I'm a little askew in my pocket placement here. Whoops!I am ready for baking! It's so easy to whip this apron up, and the retro feel of it is right on trend. Since you can easily make changes to the pattern, it can be customized to fit any style -- a perfect gift for a chef of almost any size. You could make several for a cooking party, or customize for any holiday. Get the free pattern download here, and get cookin'!
Normally, cutting a fabric on the bias is something you do when you want a garment to drape beautifully and skim the body, but what about knits? They normally already have the properties that make bias cutting so appealing when working with wovens. Here's what made me want to cut knits on the bias: stripes. I've been wanting striped t-shirts, but I am not exactly enthused by horizontal stripes on my clothes. So, I decided to conduct a little stripe-speriment.
I opted to use a vintage pattern for my first shirt. A friend of mine gave this one to me as a gift, and I've been wanting to adapt the basic shirt into a modern garment. I selected a Ponte Roma stripe for my fabric.
Since this pattern has seams at the center front and center back and I knew I wanted to create a chevron at those seams, I cut out the pattern in single layers instead doubling my fabric.
Then I was able to use those pieces to align my stripes perfectly to cut the mirror pieces.
I also cut a basic facing, using the neckline edges of my pattern pieces as a guide.
The assembled shirt will be a great transition piece from winter to spring, because the knit is a little heavier than a t-shirt. I like the combination of the chevron and the gathering at the sides.
For my second bias-cut knit shirt, I used a more modern pattern and a lighter weight rayon blend yarn dyed striped jersey knit fabric.
This one had seams only at the sides, so I just folded along the bias and cut the front and back along the fold.
This one is of course a good bit simpler in terms of assembly, since there's no chevron to line up. Since it's also a lighter weight knit, It'll be great as the weather warms up.
There are a couple of tips to keep in mind when working with bias-cut knits:
- Be careful not to stretch your fabric as you stitch to prevent bubbling and distortion at the seams.
- As a rule of thumb, the more seams your pattern has, the beefier you want your knit to be. Heavier knits will be less prone to the distortion mentioned above.
- If your fabric is really prone to stretching awkwardly, even when you're being careful, you might want to baste your seam first, using a piece of narrow ribbon as a stabilizer for the seam.
If you choose your fabric carefully, there's nothing to fear when cutting knits on the bias. While my projects feature stripes, other prints can be cut on an angle to create kaleidoscopic designs and figure-flattering lines.
I opted to use a vintage pattern for my first shirt. A friend of mine gave this one to me as a gift, and I've been wanting to adapt the basic shirt into a modern garment. I selected a Ponte Roma stripe for my fabric.
Since this pattern has seams at the center front and center back and I knew I wanted to create a chevron at those seams, I cut out the pattern in single layers instead doubling my fabric.Then I was able to use those pieces to align my stripes perfectly to cut the mirror pieces.I also cut a basic facing, using the neckline edges of my pattern pieces as a guide. The assembled shirt will be a great transition piece from winter to spring, because the knit is a little heavier than a t-shirt. I like the combination of the chevron and the gathering at the sides.
For my second bias-cut knit shirt, I used a more modern pattern and a lighter weight rayon blend yarn dyed striped jersey knit fabric.
This one had seams only at the sides, so I just folded along the bias and cut the front and back along the fold.
This one is of course a good bit simpler in terms of assembly, since there's no chevron to line up. Since it's also a lighter weight knit, It'll be great as the weather warms up. There are a couple of tips to keep in mind when working with bias-cut knits:
- Be careful not to stretch your fabric as you stitch to prevent bubbling and distortion at the seams.
- As a rule of thumb, the more seams your pattern has, the beefier you want your knit to be. Heavier knits will be less prone to the distortion mentioned above.
- If your fabric is really prone to stretching awkwardly, even when you're being careful, you might want to baste your seam first, using a piece of narrow ribbon as a stabilizer for the seam.
If you choose your fabric carefully, there's nothing to fear when cutting knits on the bias. While my projects feature stripes, other prints can be cut on an angle to create kaleidoscopic designs and figure-flattering lines.
Don't forget to share your creations with us on Facebook!
Yesterday, I shared my how-to for creating a fleece jacket based on Rapunzel's costume.Today, I'll show you how I added a hood to my creation to mimic Rapunzel's famously long locks (and add some warmth).
First, I cut a piece of fleece 30 inches wide (half the width of the fabric) and 2 yards long.
Along one of the 30-inch ends, I cut an off-center curved indent. This will become the part in Rapunzel's hair.
From my remaining fleece, I cut a squared-off facing for the front of the hood, stitched it to the indented edge right sides together, turned it, and then free-stitched a few wavy lines through both thicknesses to create the suggestions of tresses.
On the underside, I trimmed away the facing close to the furthest-back wavy tress stitch line.
To test the look, I draped the hood over my handy glass head to see how it would sit. Things were going OK so far! (Since I had the long length, I knew if I needed to cut the first 10 inches off due to failure, I would still be just fine.)
Next, I cut the fabric into three sections lengthwise, each section being 10 inches wide. I cut this all the way up to about 14 inches from the front of the hood. Tip: If you cut too far in this step, don't worry! You can always stitch it back together, and the seam lines will add to illusion of hair.
I marked the points on my jacket where I wanted the front edge of the hood to hit with two safety pins, and then measure from pin to pin around the back neckline to determine where I needed to stitch my hood closed for attachment.
I folded the hood piece so the two front edges met, then measured 1/2 of the length I measured in the step above, and made a small straight stitch. My tiny stitch is circled below in red.
Once the stitching that completes the neck edge was done, I braided the three long lengths I cut together loosely. I kept it loose so it could stay wider -- if I had braided it tightly, the proportion wouldn't have looked right.
To finish off the braid, I just cut a narrow strip from my remaining fleece and tied it around the bottom tightly, wrapping twice. This will hold it securely, but also enables me to easily adjust or shorten the braid if I want to later.
On the inside edge of the hood where it will attach to the neckline, I stitched grosgrain ribbon. I sewed it in two sections because the small stitch that closes this edge made stitching in a continuous piece clunky.
With my grosgrain in place, I sewed in a series of small button holes. Mine are spaced about 2.5 inches apart.
To attach my hood, I sewed buttons to the inside of the jacket, spaced to match the buttonholes in the hood. As I stitched, I checked the outside of the hood to make sure it didn't mar the neckline. A little roughing up of the fleece's nap helped conceal the stitches.
Then I buttoned all that hair in place.
Rapunzel's braid needs to be adorned with flowers. I wanted to have flowers that could clipped to the hood and braid, but could also be taken off and worn in the wearer's actual hair if the weather is too warm for the hood.
To start, I hot glued grosgrain ribbon to four plain hair clips, using the following steps:
The grosgrain makes it easy to glue the clip to the back of a flower. I purchased inexpensive flowers at a discount store and clipped the stems of the back to create a flat surface. If you do this, make sure to check that the layers of your flower will stay together without the step in place. You may need to touch up the layers with glue (I did).
Then, the flowers were clipped in place, and Rapunzel was ready to let down her hair!
If you make this project using two yards of hair length, as I did, be aware that it gets heavy. It can't simply fall to the back, as it will drag the hood down off the head. You can always shorten the braid, but if you hang it over the shoulder or drape it like a scarf, it's fine. If you make this project for a little princess, make sure you consider safety and what your Rapunzel is comfortable with. Happy princessing!
First, I cut a piece of fleece 30 inches wide (half the width of the fabric) and 2 yards long.
Along one of the 30-inch ends, I cut an off-center curved indent. This will become the part in Rapunzel's hair.
From my remaining fleece, I cut a squared-off facing for the front of the hood, stitched it to the indented edge right sides together, turned it, and then free-stitched a few wavy lines through both thicknesses to create the suggestions of tresses.On the underside, I trimmed away the facing close to the furthest-back wavy tress stitch line.To test the look, I draped the hood over my handy glass head to see how it would sit. Things were going OK so far! (Since I had the long length, I knew if I needed to cut the first 10 inches off due to failure, I would still be just fine.) Next, I cut the fabric into three sections lengthwise, each section being 10 inches wide. I cut this all the way up to about 14 inches from the front of the hood. Tip: If you cut too far in this step, don't worry! You can always stitch it back together, and the seam lines will add to illusion of hair.I marked the points on my jacket where I wanted the front edge of the hood to hit with two safety pins, and then measure from pin to pin around the back neckline to determine where I needed to stitch my hood closed for attachment.I folded the hood piece so the two front edges met, then measured 1/2 of the length I measured in the step above, and made a small straight stitch. My tiny stitch is circled below in red.Once the stitching that completes the neck edge was done, I braided the three long lengths I cut together loosely. I kept it loose so it could stay wider -- if I had braided it tightly, the proportion wouldn't have looked right.To finish off the braid, I just cut a narrow strip from my remaining fleece and tied it around the bottom tightly, wrapping twice. This will hold it securely, but also enables me to easily adjust or shorten the braid if I want to later.
On the inside edge of the hood where it will attach to the neckline, I stitched grosgrain ribbon. I sewed it in two sections because the small stitch that closes this edge made stitching in a continuous piece clunky.With my grosgrain in place, I sewed in a series of small button holes. Mine are spaced about 2.5 inches apart.To attach my hood, I sewed buttons to the inside of the jacket, spaced to match the buttonholes in the hood. As I stitched, I checked the outside of the hood to make sure it didn't mar the neckline. A little roughing up of the fleece's nap helped conceal the stitches.Then I buttoned all that hair in place.Rapunzel's braid needs to be adorned with flowers. I wanted to have flowers that could clipped to the hood and braid, but could also be taken off and worn in the wearer's actual hair if the weather is too warm for the hood.
To start, I hot glued grosgrain ribbon to four plain hair clips, using the following steps:
The grosgrain makes it easy to glue the clip to the back of a flower. I purchased inexpensive flowers at a discount store and clipped the stems of the back to create a flat surface. If you do this, make sure to check that the layers of your flower will stay together without the step in place. You may need to touch up the layers with glue (I did).Then, the flowers were clipped in place, and Rapunzel was ready to let down her hair!If you make this project using two yards of hair length, as I did, be aware that it gets heavy. It can't simply fall to the back, as it will drag the hood down off the head. You can always shorten the braid, but if you hang it over the shoulder or drape it like a scarf, it's fine. If you make this project for a little princess, make sure you consider safety and what your Rapunzel is comfortable with. Happy princessing!
A little more than a year ago, I posted a hoodie project based on Snow White. Since then, I've had a number of requests for a breakdown on how I adapted the look of the costume into a jacket, so I thought I'd make another cozy princess hoodie -- this time Rapunzel -- and share the steps with you.
First, I made rough (and I do mean rough) sketches of my ideas. This just helps me plot a course for where I want to go -- I rarely get more detailed than this when sketching out a project like this one.
For patterns, I used on old McCall's activewear pattern for the front, back and long sleeves (it's my go-to zip-up jacket pattern), and the Simplicity Snow White/Cinderella offering for the puff sleeve, which I make as an overlay onto the longer sleeve. If you have a favorite hoodie pattern, I encourage you to stick with it and adapt as needed. A good pattern is like an old friend!
Once my jacket pattern was cut, but before I started any real assembly, I went ahead and applied the sun motif to the back of the jacket. Fleece-on-fleece applique can be a little tricky, and I didn't want to cut a bazillion small pieces out for this one, as it only increases the odds of distortion, so I opted to stitch the design on as one large piece, and then create the lines of separation with stitching.
First, I created a black-and-white version of the image, set a piece of yellow fleece on top of it, and gently traced the design with a pink highlighter. I like using highlighters for this purpose because the ink rinses off easily.
Once my outlines were in place on the yellow fleece, I centered the design on the back jacket section, and straight stitched it into place, being careful not to distort the fabric as I went. You'll notice that I haven't cut my design down to shape at this point -- I find it easier to leave extra fabric, then trim it away later.
After my straight stitching was complete, I went over the entire design with a satin stitch.
Last, I trimmed the excess fabric away from the design, leaving about a 1/16-inch edge outside the stitching.
Next up: prepping the sleeves. First, I marked a line along the long sleeve as a guide for stitching my shorter puff sleeve in place. This line has to be high enough that the shorter sleeve will have a little bit of pouf to it. It will be clearer when you see the next three photos.
To prep my shorter puff sleeve, I first stitched grosgrain ribbon onto it vertically in regular intervals, to mimic the striping on Rapunzel's outfit.
Then, I gathered the puff sleeve to the width of the line I marked on the long sleeve, and stitch the bottom edge of the puff sleeve down, right sides together, along the line I marked in the longer sleeve.
The puff sleeve was then flipped up so the top edges of both sleeve sections matched (I had to gather my puff sleeve a little bit along the top), and basted together. From this point, you can treat it just like the regular sleeve of your pattern and inset as normal into the body of the jacket.
And speaking of the body of the jacket, it was time to get it ready to receive those sleeves! My pattern has a two-piece front, so I cut it as normal and assembled the front pieces. BUT, before I went any further, I altered the shoulder and neckline. I cut the shoulder a little narrower and extended the opening of the neckline down just a bit. This ensures that the puff sleeve sits at a more flattering angle (I mentioned in the Snow White post that if you don't alter the armsceye this way, the puff sleeve does some very unflattering things to your silhouette), and also adds a more feminine line at the neck.
After the front sections were trimmed to my satisfaction, I marked the positioning for the eyelets and ribbon that create the faux lacing along the front. I marked both where the eyelets needed to be set, and also where the ribbons needed to cross at the front edge where the zipper would insert to create proper X lacing.
I set in the eyelets and then cut ribbon pieces for the decorative lacing, looping them through the eyelets.
Next, I basted the criss-crosses in place along the front edge. Remember, the center of the X needs to be at the line where the fabric will be folded as the zipper is set in, not the edge of the fabric.
After my basting was in place, I attached the separating zipper to each front, being careful to keep my ribbon in place.
Once the second side of my zipper was in place, I stitched the fronts to the back and set in the sleeves, just as you would for any jacket assembly. Almost there!
And then, to finish things off, I added a bit of eyelet at the sleeve and neck openings.
And she's ready to leave to leave the tower and explore the world.
BUT WAIT! This is a hoodie project! Tune in to the next installment, where I'll create a button-in hood that mimics Rapunzel's famous long hair. (It does double duty as a scarf!)
First, I made rough (and I do mean rough) sketches of my ideas. This just helps me plot a course for where I want to go -- I rarely get more detailed than this when sketching out a project like this one.
For patterns, I used on old McCall's activewear pattern for the front, back and long sleeves (it's my go-to zip-up jacket pattern), and the Simplicity Snow White/Cinderella offering for the puff sleeve, which I make as an overlay onto the longer sleeve. If you have a favorite hoodie pattern, I encourage you to stick with it and adapt as needed. A good pattern is like an old friend!Once my jacket pattern was cut, but before I started any real assembly, I went ahead and applied the sun motif to the back of the jacket. Fleece-on-fleece applique can be a little tricky, and I didn't want to cut a bazillion small pieces out for this one, as it only increases the odds of distortion, so I opted to stitch the design on as one large piece, and then create the lines of separation with stitching.First, I created a black-and-white version of the image, set a piece of yellow fleece on top of it, and gently traced the design with a pink highlighter. I like using highlighters for this purpose because the ink rinses off easily.
Once my outlines were in place on the yellow fleece, I centered the design on the back jacket section, and straight stitched it into place, being careful not to distort the fabric as I went. You'll notice that I haven't cut my design down to shape at this point -- I find it easier to leave extra fabric, then trim it away later.After my straight stitching was complete, I went over the entire design with a satin stitch. Last, I trimmed the excess fabric away from the design, leaving about a 1/16-inch edge outside the stitching.Next up: prepping the sleeves. First, I marked a line along the long sleeve as a guide for stitching my shorter puff sleeve in place. This line has to be high enough that the shorter sleeve will have a little bit of pouf to it. It will be clearer when you see the next three photos.To prep my shorter puff sleeve, I first stitched grosgrain ribbon onto it vertically in regular intervals, to mimic the striping on Rapunzel's outfit.Then, I gathered the puff sleeve to the width of the line I marked on the long sleeve, and stitch the bottom edge of the puff sleeve down, right sides together, along the line I marked in the longer sleeve.The puff sleeve was then flipped up so the top edges of both sleeve sections matched (I had to gather my puff sleeve a little bit along the top), and basted together. From this point, you can treat it just like the regular sleeve of your pattern and inset as normal into the body of the jacket. And speaking of the body of the jacket, it was time to get it ready to receive those sleeves! My pattern has a two-piece front, so I cut it as normal and assembled the front pieces. BUT, before I went any further, I altered the shoulder and neckline. I cut the shoulder a little narrower and extended the opening of the neckline down just a bit. This ensures that the puff sleeve sits at a more flattering angle (I mentioned in the Snow White post that if you don't alter the armsceye this way, the puff sleeve does some very unflattering things to your silhouette), and also adds a more feminine line at the neck.After the front sections were trimmed to my satisfaction, I marked the positioning for the eyelets and ribbon that create the faux lacing along the front. I marked both where the eyelets needed to be set, and also where the ribbons needed to cross at the front edge where the zipper would insert to create proper X lacing. I set in the eyelets and then cut ribbon pieces for the decorative lacing, looping them through the eyelets.Next, I basted the criss-crosses in place along the front edge. Remember, the center of the X needs to be at the line where the fabric will be folded as the zipper is set in, not the edge of the fabric.After my basting was in place, I attached the separating zipper to each front, being careful to keep my ribbon in place.Once the second side of my zipper was in place, I stitched the fronts to the back and set in the sleeves, just as you would for any jacket assembly. Almost there!And then, to finish things off, I added a bit of eyelet at the sleeve and neck openings.And she's ready to leave to leave the tower and explore the world.
BUT WAIT! This is a hoodie project! Tune in to the next installment, where I'll create a button-in hood that mimics Rapunzel's famous long hair. (It does double duty as a scarf!)
