Holly: June 2012 Archives
I do not go sleeveless. Ever. I am lucky to be fairly strong, but my upper arms are not very well defined, so if I can avoid exposing them, I do. This is sometimes tricky, as there are many summer styles that are sleeveless. So, if there's a shirt or dress that I adore, but it comes sans sleeves, I add a flutter sleeve to cover the doughier parts of my upper body.
I love using a lightweight chiffon or knit chiffon, which work great for the dupioni top in this example, but if I'm working with a more casual top, a drapey knit also works fabulously.
This one involves some math, but don't panic. I'll walk you through it (and it's pretty easy)!
First, measure around the upper part of your arm between the two points you wish you to attach your flutter sleeve. The positioning is entirely up to you. Don't sweat it if it's an estimate -- you can alter your flutter sleeve late in the game if you need to. (I had to on this one!)
My first measurement was 10 inches. I'm cutting the flutter as a half-circle, so I have to figure out how long the radius of my half circle is. If a circle's circumference (C) is calculated as 2 x Pi x radius (r), it stands to reason that half a circumference is Pi x radius. So, since we know that the half circumference measurement is 10 inches, we just need to divide that by Pi (3.14) to solve for the length of the radius.
Short version: Divide your measurement by 3.14 to get the radius. For mine, this result is roughly 3.2 inches. I show my work below (someone call my high school geometry teacher!):
Once you know the length of your radius, you have to mark out your semi-circle on paper to start your pattern. Mark an edge of your paper with a point -- this will be the center of your half circle. Measure from that point, and mark the length of the radius, working around your semi-circle with a series of dots.
I love using a lightweight chiffon or knit chiffon, which work great for the dupioni top in this example, but if I'm working with a more casual top, a drapey knit also works fabulously.
This one involves some math, but don't panic. I'll walk you through it (and it's pretty easy)!
First, measure around the upper part of your arm between the two points you wish you to attach your flutter sleeve. The positioning is entirely up to you. Don't sweat it if it's an estimate -- you can alter your flutter sleeve late in the game if you need to. (I had to on this one!)
My first measurement was 10 inches. I'm cutting the flutter as a half-circle, so I have to figure out how long the radius of my half circle is. If a circle's circumference (C) is calculated as 2 x Pi x radius (r), it stands to reason that half a circumference is Pi x radius. So, since we know that the half circumference measurement is 10 inches, we just need to divide that by Pi (3.14) to solve for the length of the radius.
Short version: Divide your measurement by 3.14 to get the radius. For mine, this result is roughly 3.2 inches. I show my work below (someone call my high school geometry teacher!):
Once you know the length of your radius, you have to mark out your semi-circle on paper to start your pattern. Mark an edge of your paper with a point -- this will be the center of your half circle. Measure from that point, and mark the length of the radius, working around your semi-circle with a series of dots.Eventually, your arc will make a half circle. If it looks sparse, feel free to fill in with more dots. As long as you're marking the length of your radius from the point you marked as center, it will fall within your arc.
Once you've made your series of dots, draw an arc to connect your dots.
To check your work, measure the semi-circle you just drew and see if it matches the first measurement you took.
Next, decide how long you want your sleeve to be. I decided on somewhere around 4.5 inches. Add this number to your radius number to get the length of the second radius you'll be using to draft your pattern. Using the exact same center point you used for your first semi-circle, draw in your second, larger semi-circle.
Use the paper pattern you just created to cut out your two sleeve pieces.
Next, test the dimensions of your sleeve with your garment. I had to cut mine down a little bit -- 10 inches was longer than I really wanted.
Once you have the sizing finalized, it's time to edge finish your sleeves. For the smaller arc which will become the top of the sleeve, I like to stitch a narrow piece of ribbon to the sleeve, and then turn it under and stitch again. This keeps the sleeve from distorting and stretching during wear.
Once my edge is in place, I edge finish the rest of the piece. If you have an overcast or rolled hem foot for your machine, now is the time to use it!
Once the sleeve is finished on all edges, you simply tack it to your garment at the top corners both front and back with a little hand stitching, and you're ready to go!
You can move your placement of your flutter sleeve up or down to suit your taste. You can cut it longer than needed and gather it for a fuller fall. You can also cut it as a full circle instead of a semi circle for even more flutter. This is also a good trick to add a little princess flair to a little girl's wardrobe.
Once you start playing with simple garment altering, you may find yourself inventing all kinds of ways to add new style to existing pieces. Be sure to share those with us on Facebook!
Once you've made your series of dots, draw an arc to connect your dots.To check your work, measure the semi-circle you just drew and see if it matches the first measurement you took.Next, decide how long you want your sleeve to be. I decided on somewhere around 4.5 inches. Add this number to your radius number to get the length of the second radius you'll be using to draft your pattern. Using the exact same center point you used for your first semi-circle, draw in your second, larger semi-circle.Use the paper pattern you just created to cut out your two sleeve pieces.Next, test the dimensions of your sleeve with your garment. I had to cut mine down a little bit -- 10 inches was longer than I really wanted.Once you have the sizing finalized, it's time to edge finish your sleeves. For the smaller arc which will become the top of the sleeve, I like to stitch a narrow piece of ribbon to the sleeve, and then turn it under and stitch again. This keeps the sleeve from distorting and stretching during wear.
Once my edge is in place, I edge finish the rest of the piece. If you have an overcast or rolled hem foot for your machine, now is the time to use it! Once the sleeve is finished on all edges, you simply tack it to your garment at the top corners both front and back with a little hand stitching, and you're ready to go!You can move your placement of your flutter sleeve up or down to suit your taste. You can cut it longer than needed and gather it for a fuller fall. You can also cut it as a full circle instead of a semi circle for even more flutter. This is also a good trick to add a little princess flair to a little girl's wardrobe. Once you start playing with simple garment altering, you may find yourself inventing all kinds of ways to add new style to existing pieces. Be sure to share those with us on Facebook!
Let me get this out of the way: I am a less than stellar daughter. I love my dad so much, but I am a scatterbrained woman, and I often forget important dates ... including Father's Day.
If you're like me, and you're scrambling to come up with a gift for your dad at the last minute, look no further than you fabric stash! If you've got a couple of 16" x 10.5" scraps, you can whip up an iPad sleeve your dad will treasure.
For your lining fabric, something ultra soft with a nap is best. Think velvet, velveteen and minky. For your exterior fabric, anything that fits your dad's personality is perfect. I went with a striped suiting remnant.
All seam allowances on this project are 1/4".
Once you've cut your rectangles, stitch your lining and your exterior fabric along the top long edge. To orient your napped fabric, lay it out in front of you so brushing downward is a smooth motion, with the fabric's fibers laying flat. With this orientation, the top edge of your fabric is the one you will join to your exterior fabric. This way, the iPad will slide into the sleeve easily, and the nap of the fabric will naturally remove any dust or debris from the screen when you pull it out.
I like to understitch the seam allowance to the lining fabric at this stage.
Next, fold your fabric into a long tube as shown below. You'll be stitching along the long edge, and then across the exterior fabric to the fold.
This is a good time to turn your project right side out and test for fit. Remember, iPads have buttons along the outside edges, so if your sleeve is too tight, it can end up depressing buttons and adjust settings like the volume when the unit is inserted into the sleeve. You want the sleeve snug enough to hold the iPad without it sliding around, but with enough ease that it's not a struggle to slide the iPad in or out. Because the thickness of napped fabrics varied greatly, you may need to make adjustments.
Once you've got your fit squared away, close up the bottom of your lining fabric. You can machine stitch it like I did, or use a whip stitch to close it by hand.
If you have a sewing machine that does simple lettering stitches, you can further customize your project by adding a special message or sentiment. You can also embellish with patches or other trim to perfectly match your gift to your dad's personality!
If you're like me, and you're scrambling to come up with a gift for your dad at the last minute, look no further than you fabric stash! If you've got a couple of 16" x 10.5" scraps, you can whip up an iPad sleeve your dad will treasure.
For your lining fabric, something ultra soft with a nap is best. Think velvet, velveteen and minky. For your exterior fabric, anything that fits your dad's personality is perfect. I went with a striped suiting remnant.
All seam allowances on this project are 1/4".
Once you've cut your rectangles, stitch your lining and your exterior fabric along the top long edge. To orient your napped fabric, lay it out in front of you so brushing downward is a smooth motion, with the fabric's fibers laying flat. With this orientation, the top edge of your fabric is the one you will join to your exterior fabric. This way, the iPad will slide into the sleeve easily, and the nap of the fabric will naturally remove any dust or debris from the screen when you pull it out.
I like to understitch the seam allowance to the lining fabric at this stage. Next, fold your fabric into a long tube as shown below. You'll be stitching along the long edge, and then across the exterior fabric to the fold.This is a good time to turn your project right side out and test for fit. Remember, iPads have buttons along the outside edges, so if your sleeve is too tight, it can end up depressing buttons and adjust settings like the volume when the unit is inserted into the sleeve. You want the sleeve snug enough to hold the iPad without it sliding around, but with enough ease that it's not a struggle to slide the iPad in or out. Because the thickness of napped fabrics varied greatly, you may need to make adjustments.
Once you've got your fit squared away, close up the bottom of your lining fabric. You can machine stitch it like I did, or use a whip stitch to close it by hand.
Next, I top stitched around the opening edge of the sleeve (right over the understitching I did earlier).
Your iPad sleeve is ready for prime time! And this project can of course be easily adapted for any other brand of tablet. Just measure the unit's dimensions and add about 1" -1.5" to those measurements to determine your cutting dimensions.
Your iPad sleeve is ready for prime time! And this project can of course be easily adapted for any other brand of tablet. Just measure the unit's dimensions and add about 1" -1.5" to those measurements to determine your cutting dimensions.
If you have a sewing machine that does simple lettering stitches, you can further customize your project by adding a special message or sentiment. You can also embellish with patches or other trim to perfectly match your gift to your dad's personality!
Happy Father's Day to my incredibly awesome dad, and special thanks to my best friend Dawn, who gave me the idea for this project and made the original prototype!
Necessity is the mother of invention. When I first started running, I was on a constant hunt for a way to carry my keys, driver's license and other necessities in the easiest way possible. I tried various things out, including shoe wallets and arm bands, but I never really loved any of them. Of course, I finally took matters into my own hands, and developed a wrist wallet of my own. I liked it so much, this is now how I always carry my cash and cards -- not just when I'm running!
Here's how to make one for yourself:
You'll need a little bit of swimwear/activewear fabric. Since I make a lot of my running gear, I have an epic stash of lycra scraps. The key is that it needs a lot of stretch. You'll also need some t-shirt scraps, and a short zipper. (Any zipper 4" or longer will work -- you can trim any excess length.)
This version works great on a 7" wrist. It's got plenty of stretch, so there's some flexibility to the size. It's also easy to adjust measurements to customize your fit.
- Cut 2 rectangles 3.5" x 5" out of your activewear fabric.(You want the greatest stretch across the 3.5" width.)
- Cut 2 rectangles 3.5" x 5" out of your tee shirt scraps. I like to use the sleeves of a t-shirt and leave the bigger pieces for other projects.
- Last, cut a 5.5" x 8" piece of your activewear fabric.
Stitch down the tube 1/4" from the raw edge.
Now, fold your tube to the left and top stitch 3/8" from the folded edge. This will hide your raw edge, and it will give you a bit of reinforcement for your cuff.
Next, baste the remaining open end of your tube to either edge of your open zipper section.
You can give your cuff a size test once the basting is in place and adjust if needed. Keep in mind, it will get a little tighter as you finish the wallet.
Open up the zipper before the next part, or you won't be able to turn it right side out!
Fold your wallet closed, right sides together.
And then stitch around the three remaining edges, being careful not to catch your cuff in the stitching.
Turn it right side out, and voila! Ready to roll!
Here's how to make one for yourself:
You'll need a little bit of swimwear/activewear fabric. Since I make a lot of my running gear, I have an epic stash of lycra scraps. The key is that it needs a lot of stretch. You'll also need some t-shirt scraps, and a short zipper. (Any zipper 4" or longer will work -- you can trim any excess length.)
This version works great on a 7" wrist. It's got plenty of stretch, so there's some flexibility to the size. It's also easy to adjust measurements to customize your fit.
- Cut 2 rectangles 3.5" x 5" out of your activewear fabric.(You want the greatest stretch across the 3.5" width.)
- Cut 2 rectangles 3.5" x 5" out of your tee shirt scraps. I like to use the sleeves of a t-shirt and leave the bigger pieces for other projects.
- Last, cut a 5.5" x 8" piece of your activewear fabric.Time to start sewing!
(A quick note on pictures: I was making three of these concurrently, so steps may be shown in different fabrics as we go!)
First, fold your long rectangle so the 5.5" edges meet up, right sides together.
Stitch along the 5.5" edges. I suggest using a stretch stitch, as this seam will wrap around your wrist.
Turn your tube right side out, and set it aside. I like to align my seam so it sits along the center of what will be the middle of the underside of my cuff.
To set in your zipper, sandwich it in between your activewear fabric and your t-shirt fabric. The t-shirt scrap should be on the underside of the zipper and the activewear on top. Stitch along the edge, catching in all three layers. You may need to move your zipper pull out of the way at some point to keep your stitching smooth. Repeat this step for both sides.
Flip all fabrics outward, away from your zipper, and top stitch along each side of the zipper. You may be tempted to press your fabrics out, but I wouldn't advise it. The elastic fibers in activewear fabrics will often melt under even low heat.
Grab your tube that you set aside earlier, and place it on top of your zipper section. Situate it seam side down with one of the open ends approximately 3/8" to 1/2" to the right of the zipper.
(A quick note on pictures: I was making three of these concurrently, so steps may be shown in different fabrics as we go!)
First, fold your long rectangle so the 5.5" edges meet up, right sides together.
Stitch along the 5.5" edges. I suggest using a stretch stitch, as this seam will wrap around your wrist.Turn your tube right side out, and set it aside. I like to align my seam so it sits along the center of what will be the middle of the underside of my cuff.To set in your zipper, sandwich it in between your activewear fabric and your t-shirt fabric. The t-shirt scrap should be on the underside of the zipper and the activewear on top. Stitch along the edge, catching in all three layers. You may need to move your zipper pull out of the way at some point to keep your stitching smooth. Repeat this step for both sides.Flip all fabrics outward, away from your zipper, and top stitch along each side of the zipper. You may be tempted to press your fabrics out, but I wouldn't advise it. The elastic fibers in activewear fabrics will often melt under even low heat. Grab your tube that you set aside earlier, and place it on top of your zipper section. Situate it seam side down with one of the open ends approximately 3/8" to 1/2" to the right of the zipper.Stitch down the tube 1/4" from the raw edge.Now, fold your tube to the left and top stitch 3/8" from the folded edge. This will hide your raw edge, and it will give you a bit of reinforcement for your cuff.Next, baste the remaining open end of your tube to either edge of your open zipper section.You can give your cuff a size test once the basting is in place and adjust if needed. Keep in mind, it will get a little tighter as you finish the wallet.Open up the zipper before the next part, or you won't be able to turn it right side out!Fold your wallet closed, right sides together.And then stitch around the three remaining edges, being careful not to catch your cuff in the stitching.Turn it right side out, and voila! Ready to roll! Here are the other two finished samples. The first is my favorite color -- zebra!
And the second is a little Hawaiian number to enjoy through the summer, and during the winter when I need a boost.
I love these handy little cuffs -- they're great for running and travel, and when I'm using one, I always know where my wallet is. (I am a perpetual nervous wallet checker.) I never take a bag with me anywhere on quick errands -- I just grab my wallet and my phone and go! And speaking of phones, you could always make a larger version if you need to carry your smartphone, but remember -- these aren't water resistant, so sweat or inclement weather can get to your electronics.
And the second is a little Hawaiian number to enjoy through the summer, and during the winter when I need a boost.I love these handy little cuffs -- they're great for running and travel, and when I'm using one, I always know where my wallet is. (I am a perpetual nervous wallet checker.) I never take a bag with me anywhere on quick errands -- I just grab my wallet and my phone and go! And speaking of phones, you could always make a larger version if you need to carry your smartphone, but remember -- these aren't water resistant, so sweat or inclement weather can get to your electronics.
I love vintage fashion -- who doesn't? The problem is that when I find great vintage pieces, I'm often reluctant to wear them because I know the fabrics have usually grown fragile with age. I know many people who similarly have closets full of beautiful pieces that rarely see the light of day.
While I will never stop prowling for gorgeous vintage clothes, I have turned to pattern companies' re-issued versions of vintage styles so I can make pieces to wear every day without a care. I love putting a modern twist on vintage style by using new prints and graphics. I like to aim for a combination of demure and whimsical.
I'll be making numerous dresses from vintage patterns in the coming months and sharing them here on the blog, but to start things off, I'm working with Vintage Vogue 8728.
The bodice on this pattern is what first drew me in. I like that it's simple, but the gathered front bodice makes it seem fancy and detailed. The curved seam under the bust is ultra-feminine, but the overall cut is conservative enough for work.
For my first go, I used a striped cotton in orange and black.
(In my world, every day is Halloween!)
The second version I made is a giraffe print. In my head, something about a vintage dress in a modern animal print makes me think of a campy version of safari wear, and I generally like a campy version of anything.
(Note: I skipped the belt in both of my versions; I like to keep things simple. I would never be able to keep a belt straight.)
Now that I've made this pattern twice, I think I will tweak it on my next one. I would love a fuller skirt, so I am thinking about a circle skirt instead of the pattern skirt. That way, I can wear it with a pettiskirt underneath for some extra flouncy fun.
While I will never stop prowling for gorgeous vintage clothes, I have turned to pattern companies' re-issued versions of vintage styles so I can make pieces to wear every day without a care. I love putting a modern twist on vintage style by using new prints and graphics. I like to aim for a combination of demure and whimsical.
I'll be making numerous dresses from vintage patterns in the coming months and sharing them here on the blog, but to start things off, I'm working with Vintage Vogue 8728.
The bodice on this pattern is what first drew me in. I like that it's simple, but the gathered front bodice makes it seem fancy and detailed. The curved seam under the bust is ultra-feminine, but the overall cut is conservative enough for work.
For my first go, I used a striped cotton in orange and black.
(In my world, every day is Halloween!)
The second version I made is a giraffe print. In my head, something about a vintage dress in a modern animal print makes me think of a campy version of safari wear, and I generally like a campy version of anything.
(Note: I skipped the belt in both of my versions; I like to keep things simple. I would never be able to keep a belt straight.)
Now that I've made this pattern twice, I think I will tweak it on my next one. I would love a fuller skirt, so I am thinking about a circle skirt instead of the pattern skirt. That way, I can wear it with a pettiskirt underneath for some extra flouncy fun.
