Free: May 2012 Archives
(Her reply: "Super cute!!!!")
First off, where has this pattern been all my life? No use crying over the absence of a thing. I'll just celebrate it now that I've got it. My advice is download it now! Right now!
Here's the rundown on my test drive:
For the first sample, I used a small cut of dupioni from the stash. For interfacing, I used a plain heavy canvas, also from the stash. I lined it with the same dupioni I used for the outside.
The pattern instructions mention the teeny tiny seam allowance you will need to use to create the zipper opening. It is not fibbing! That said, it's clearly marked and is no problem if you take your time. Here's what mine looks like flipped and ironed after I stitched and slashed it to make way for the zipper:
Now, here's my trick for a little reinforcement at the base of the pyramid, which forms the bottom of the bag. I use craft foam. Yep. Regular old craft foam.
I actually stitch my craft foam into the bag structure. First, I fold my pattern along the lines that mark out the square at the bottom of the bag. Then, I use the folded pattern as a guide, and I mark that line with pieces of masking tape, working my way around all four sides of the square base.
Here's my square, roughly marked out with tape:
Once my marks are in place, I slide the craft foam between the interfaced outer layer and the lining layer, making sure it sits within the boundaries of my tape marks. Then I run a straight stitch around my square, creating a permanent enclosure for my craft foam base reinforcement. I remove my tape as I go.
After that, the bag finishes according to the pattern directions -- stitching up each of the four sides, and setting in the strap as you stitch across the top of the pyramid. The softness of the craft foam allows for easy turning, and before you know it, a bag is born!
I made a second version out of a damask cotton print, using the exact same technique for the base. Worked like a charm on the second go, too, so it wasn't just a fluke on the first one!
The size of the bag is fab -- the wide base easily accommodates an iPhone or similar-sized mobile device, and there's still plenty of room for a wallet and any must-have cosmetics. In fact, this pattern could easily be used for cosmetic bags instead of purses.
The quick nature of this bag means that you can whip it up in an afternoon for a party that night, and you're practically guaranteed you'll have the best bag in the room!
Hop over here for the download, and have a blast playing! I see a version in a sand colored silk with hieroglyph embellishments in my future ...
I was window shopping over at my favorite store, Anthropologie, a few weeks ago and found this top and knew it was destined to be mine- But not for $58! A quick look at the close-ups confirmed that is was a very stylized version of a pillowcase top with a banded hem. Done, case closed, let's get to work. I, being 5 mo. pregnant, decided to craft my version from knit to make it last the summer. I tell you I feel really pretty and myself in this top (which is hard to accomplish, considering I just popped).Here's how to make your own. You can easily make this top from a woven or a knit.
1 yd of Knit fabric (you can use interlock or jersey just make sure it has at least 20% stretch across the grain)
Walking foot on your standard machine.
Measure and cut your fabric pieces according to my handy cheat sheet that you can download below (click on the picture to save and print or click here to if it is not visible).
Here's an example of the main panel measurement: widest measurement is 38 in. / 2= 19 in. + 1 in. (seam allowance)= 20 in. cutting width
Length from shoulder to hip bone is 22 in. + 4 in. = 26 in. cutting length
From the remaining fabric cut a 2 in. wide strip by at least 60 in. in length for the drawstring tie at the top.
All stitches are
assumed zig zag stitches unless otherwise noted
Mark your main panels 6-8 in. from the top on each side; above the mark is your arm hole and below is your side seam. Stitch your sides together (RS facing) starting at these marks. Fold down seam allowance in your arm hole and topstitch in place.
To make the front keyhole, cut an 8 in. by 2 in wide piece of knit for the facing and pin it the front main panel of your top as shown on the cheat sheet, matching centers (RS facing). Using a narrow stitch, stitch close to your center line on one side, stopping ½ from the bottom of the facing, stitch across your center and stitch back up the other side of your center using the same spacing (try to stitch between 1/8 and ¼ in. from the center). Clip down your center line and turn your facing to the inside of your front main panel. Turn under the raw edges of the facing, pin in place and topstitch around the edges of your facing to secure in place using a straight stitch.
Make top ruffle and casing: on the front and back, fold the top of your top down 1/2 in. and pin or baste, fold down another 1.5 in and pin in place, topstitch along fold using straight stitch. Stitch another line 3/4 in. above the topstitching using a straight stitch.
Stitch your hem bands together at the sides and fold in half, matching raw edges, WS facing, and pin to the bottom edge of your top, stretching the hem band as needed to fit. Stitch around hem band.
To make the draw string, fold draw string in half lengthwise, RS facing and stitch down the length. Turn draw string right side out and feed through casing using a safety pin or bodkin starting at one side of the keyhole on the front of your top and finishing on the other side. Knit your drawstring at both ends.
Congrats you are DONE! Enjoy your Keyhole Pillowcase top in wovens as well as knits, just cut your hem band on the bias for a little stretch around your hips. I love this top in solids as well as medium or small scale prints. Polka Dots are a must for this style!
P.S. because this is knit it makes a great maternity top!
