Results tagged “knit fabric” from Fabric.com Blog
I am loving all the new ruffle scarves out in the market this season. They are so fun and a great way to bring sophistication and style to a casual outfit, add color to your jacket or take an outfit from work to play.
A great way to create your own unique ruffle scarf is to use pieces from an existing pattern that features ruffles. You can modify the pieces without having to draft something from scratch. I used the flounce pieces from Kwik Sew Ruffled Collar Wrap Shirt. Though this pattern is designed for woven, I cut my scarf pieces from knit fabric for a warmer, softer feel. I wanted a really flouncy, bouncy, twisty scarf. The rest is complete pie (or cake whichever you prefer). After cutting 6 flounce pieces together, I stitched each piece together (right sides facing) with a ½ in. seam. Once done, I had 3 separate long ruffle pieces, I matched them up at the seam, layering one on top of the other, all with right sides facing up so all the seams, but the bottom, would be unseen. Then I sewed all pieces together right over the seam line. The next step is optional but makes it easier to keep your scarf from looking too crazy but does reduce the twisty ruffle effect just a bit. Line up and pin all 3 ruffles together on the inside edge and stitch down from center seam 10 in. on both sides along the inside edge. This will keep the ruffle pieces together better but will still leave the ends separate to be tied, dangled or twisted.
This is the perfect all-purpose scarf that you can wrap, tie, twist or tuck in to keep you warm or stylish as needed. It is fast and easy so you can make one or a few for friends and family. You can adjust the size by adding length to the flounce or adding ruffle pieces to bulk up your scarf or use a sweater knit or fleece for colder climates.

You all know the iconic Pumpkin Bucket that serves as a rite of passage for halloweeners everywhere. In my many years of trick or treating, I have abused several of these buckets (aside from the standard pillowcases and shopping bags that also dot my Halloween timeline). As much as I love the Pumpkin Bucket as is, it just "won't do" or go with my daughter's fleece lion costume. You had better believe that if I am going to cover her shoes then I am going to cover her bucket to match. Though I didn't want to go over board (What!? Did that just come from my keyboard? Over board me? Ha) with the lion motif so I paid homage to one of her other faves, a butterfly. Though I did stay in the same color family and use the remaining fleece from her Lion Costume from Part 2: The Costume. The bucket cover was the most fun of her whole costume because it was unstructured. I constructed the bucket cover much like a lampshade slip cover but with elastic gathers at bottom and top. I measured around the widest part of the pumpkin for the width of my fleece rectangle (Cut this from the darker fleece color) and added 1 in. for the seam allowance. Then I measure the height and added 2 in. for a 1 in. hem at top and bottom. With these 2 measurements you can cut out your fleece cover.
Next, I drew a butterfly (if you don't feel comfortable drawing you can download a free coloring page and use it as a stencil) and cut it out of my light colored fleece. I added some details cut from a quilting cotton and zigzag stitched them onto the wings for detail and color. Then I pinned my butterfly onto the fleece cover and zig zagged around the edges. I also added some decorative stitching to outline the body of the butterfly. Next, with right sides together, pin and stitch the short ends of your cover. Then, fold over and pin your top and bottom hems and stitch in place leaving a 2-3 gap for the ½ in. elastic. Use a safety pin or bodkin to run your elastic (which should match the circumference of the top opening of your bucket) through the top and bottom hem casings. Stitch the 2 ends of your elastic together and stitch your hem casing closed. Slip your cover on and enjoy your matching treat bucket! You can embroider your child's name on the side opposing the appliqué or add another appliqué. Go crazy with your bucket and having fun decorating to match your costume!
P.S. Make sure your butterfly applique fit before cutting it out of your fleece. Don't get carried away with excitement like me and realize later that it is just a smidge too big. I am hand sewing those bits down as I write this.
You all know the iconic Pumpkin Bucket that serves as a rite of passage for halloweeners everywhere. In my many years of trick or treating, I have abused several of these buckets (aside from the standard pillowcases and shopping bags that also dot my Halloween timeline). As much as I love the Pumpkin Bucket as is, it just "won't do" or go with my daughter's fleece lion costume. You had better believe that if I am going to cover her shoes then I am going to cover her bucket to match. Though I didn't want to go over board (What!? Did that just come from my keyboard? Over board me? Ha) with the lion motif so I paid homage to one of her other faves, a butterfly. Though I did stay in the same color family and use the remaining fleece from her Lion Costume from Part 2: The Costume. The bucket cover was the most fun of her whole costume because it was unstructured. I constructed the bucket cover much like a lampshade slip cover but with elastic gathers at bottom and top. I measured around the widest part of the pumpkin for the width of my fleece rectangle (Cut this from the darker fleece color) and added 1 in. for the seam allowance. Then I measure the height and added 2 in. for a 1 in. hem at top and bottom. With these 2 measurements you can cut out your fleece cover.
Next, I drew a butterfly (if you don't feel comfortable drawing you can download a free coloring page and use it as a stencil) and cut it out of my light colored fleece. I added some details cut from a quilting cotton and zigzag stitched them onto the wings for detail and color. Then I pinned my butterfly onto the fleece cover and zig zagged around the edges. I also added some decorative stitching to outline the body of the butterfly. Next, with right sides together, pin and stitch the short ends of your cover. Then, fold over and pin your top and bottom hems and stitch in place leaving a 2-3 gap for the ½ in. elastic. Use a safety pin or bodkin to run your elastic (which should match the circumference of the top opening of your bucket) through the top and bottom hem casings. Stitch the 2 ends of your elastic together and stitch your hem casing closed. Slip your cover on and enjoy your matching treat bucket! You can embroider your child's name on the side opposing the appliqué or add another appliqué. Go crazy with your bucket and having fun decorating to match your costume!
P.S. Make sure your butterfly applique fit before cutting it out of your fleece. Don't get carried away with excitement like me and realize later that it is just a smidge too big. I am hand sewing those bits down as I write this.
Everyone has one these days but if you are anything like me more often than not you don't have a pocket to spare for your MP3 player. Some of my lady clothes just don't offer the pocket space I need to take my tunes with me and some don't offer pockets at all. I tried keeping mine in my bra for a while but then the hot weather hit and that just didn't work out any more. So I vowed for Back to School I would design a great arm band for my MP3 player that I could wear with any outfit to anywhere. I use it walking with my stroller, going to the grocery store, gardening, cleaning, etc. The great thing about my MP3 Go Band is that many activities that previously were 'no-no's for my MP3 player in the pocket (it would fall out) are now back on!
To create your own takes a little bit of time, a little bit of fabric and Velcro but leads to much freedom. These are great for college kids who need an MP3 player to catch up on lectures, language lessons or just music to listen to while they trek from one end of campus to the other. As a mom, I love it as a companion for long walks, household chores and a break while running errands. But really these are great gifts for anyone in the family. You can download your own MP3 Go Band pattern below by clicking on the picture.
You can find your materials here:
I cannot seem to say enough good things about Hot Patterns so I won't disappoint with the All Wrapped Up Tank and will keep to my ways. First, I was very surprised with how fast this tank went together. I was expecting something this interested to take much longer than the 4ish hours it took me to assemble the pattern, layout and cut the pattern pieces and stitch it up. It was pretty easy considering it looks so edgy in the picture and other twisty, tied projects I have researched have complicated reviews and challenging patterns. The All Wrapped Up Tank is a nice tank pattern that comes with ties that you wrap around your waist to give it a cinched look (even though the tank is fitted). The ties and wrap give texture and add detail. You can wear this tank many ways, with jeans and sandals for a Fourth of July Picnic, under a fitted, cropped jacket for work wear or after hours, or with my linen version of the equally fun Bossa Nova Skirt for a girls lunch/shopping trip (though why you would be shopping when you can make such cute clothes, I don't know). The only suggestion I would make is that there should be a mark on the front wrap pattern piece to indicate where to pin it to the tank around the neckline so it will be secured under the neck binding. I had to guess and rip back a few times to get it right. I will also make the wrap pieces extend down 2-3 in. further next time to accommodate a larger bust but that is not a pattern suggestion, just a fitting detail.
I made my All Wrapped Up Tank in ITY (Interlock Twist Yarn) Stretch Jersey Knit and it is soft, kinda slinky with great drape. It is hard to distinguish wrong side from right side so you really can't go wrong- this is especially helpful with wrapping since you don't have to worry about the wrong side showing). There is also a slight sheen and did I mention the awesome drape (I think I may have). I used a self binding for the armholes and neckline to give it a monochrome look that really helped the wrap detail to stand out. I really like that the ties are not bulky which makes it possible to wear this tank under a cardi, jacket or shawl. The ties can also be placed to help cinch in your tummy so you can wear this when you want to look good but also do some serious eating. Lastly the basic tank pattern without the wrap is also a great wardrobe staple that I would recommend for your printed knits.

Infinity dresses are everywhere these days; a call back from their heyday in the 1970's. And why not! They are classics and modern perfectly combined because you can wear them to suit your style, event or mood. Couple that with Fabric.com's amazing selection of dreamy Stretch ITY knits and your infinity dress can be in a rainbow of colors or lengths (Mine is in turquoise). The infinity dress is perfect for holiday weekends or destination weddings because it is wrinkle free and ready to wear in seconds.
There are many different versions in stores these days but some lacked pizzazz or included too much pizzazz. I originally fell in love with the original on Rostitchery's blog but I had trouble with cutting the circle skirt. Rowena of Rostitchery wrote another version with some great additions for Threads Quick Stuff to Sew that included an easier version of the circle skirt and a small elastic casing (among other great tips) but I still didn't want to deal with Pi or a circle skirt so I developed my own work around : a gathered skirt. What I really loved about the gathered skirt- besides not cutting out a circle- is the ease of hemming, no round hems here! Here's how to make an infinity dress like mine.
Materials:
4 yds of ITY Knit
Coordinating thread
1 yd of ½ in. elastic
Measuring tapes of various mediums (seamstress, carpenter's and a solid ruler)
*Always use a narrow zig-zag stitch unless otherwise noted
Measure out your 2 straps which will be 1.5 times your height. I am 5'7" so I rounded to 8ft long for my straps. The width is roughly from your breast bone to under your arm. I measured 11 in. So I cut 2 straps 8 ft long and 11 in. wide. The skirt piece is double your natural waist (mine is 28 in. so I cut mine to 60 in. to make it easy) for the width by however long you want your dress to be. I decided on a 36 in. length and it hits right at my ankle (perfect for dancing). The casing piece is your waist plus 2 in by 2.5 in.
With right sides together sew up the side seam of the skirt piece. Baste 2 lines of stitches along the top and pull the bobbin thread to gather up the skirt until it equals your waist measurement. Stitch the gathers in place. With right sides facing, pin your straps onto your skirt with the seam in the back, fold your casing widthwise and pin to your skirt over the straps, overlapping the ends by 1-2 in. Stitch all these layers in place. Insert your elastic into your casing, making sure not to twist and then stitch the ends of your elastic together and then close and stitch your casing ends (I just tucked one end into the other and stitched over top of the ends. Voila you are done.
Now there are tons of videos on how to wear and wrap infinity dresses on YouTube. But there are also many ways to fancy up your dress as well. You can add a simple ruffle like my Michael Miller Knit post or add many ruffles to your skirt. You can make your dress in white and dye it in an ombre design. You can make your skirt and straps to coordinate but not match. Some designs even feature a built in tube top (just an extension of the waist casing) or a separate tube top for extras modesty or with a built in bra. The possibilities are endless but this is the PERFECT summer dress!
Fabric: Michael Miller Interlock Knit Ta Dot Apple
Pattern: Simplicity 2443 Cynthia Rowley
I have had my eye on Michael Miller's Interlock Knits Prints for quite some time now but I put off purchasing it for the simple reason that I had already labeled them as "kid prints". Thus without any conscious thought I had mentally removed it from my list and thus out of my shopping cart. But when I needed project ideas for this month's blog theme of "Spring Wardrobe", I gave it a second look and decided that I would help remove the stigma of "Kid Print" from these great, modern knit prints and show their glam/adult side.
Let me start out with a monologue on how gorgeous and totally awesome this fabric is. I have not been this excited while making a dress since Serendipity Monique Dress (and if you will remember this dress gave me a challenge); this dress is even better. The reason I rank this dress so high is because that it is knit. Knit = Fantastic. First, the interlock doesn't curl so it is easy to work with. Second, the print is just plain fun. The polka dot oval shape gave some definition to the waist band which was cut on the stretch. It doesn't just blend in anymore. Third, the fabric is just SOFT and gets softer with a wash or 2. The stretch is just right for this dress and adds more comfort than you would expect from such a tailored dress. I highly recommend an interlock knit for this, or really any spring knit dress pattern.
Now to the modifications that really make the dress super fun. The pattern calls for gathers around the waist but I wanted to add more structure and tailoring to counteract the whimsical nature of the fabric pattern so I opted for pleating around the waistline and it turned out even more fab than I was counting on. To make the pleats I folded each skirt piece in half widthwise and marked the center. I then marked out from the center at 1 in. increments to the edges. Working from the center, take your third mark and fold it toward the center, matching it up with your center mark and pin. This makes one pleat. Repeat for the other side of the center and all the way down toward the edges till you have reached the same measurements as your waist band (I spaced my pleats out 1 in.). I made six 1 in. box pleats and two ½ in. box pleats on each skirt piece to make my skirt pieces match the 15 ½ in. of each waist band piece. I added my ½ in. box pleats on the edges to make up for the difference. I also added a very simple and tailored ruffle at the bottom. It adds some definition to the skirt without drawing too much attention to one area and keeps the dress more tailored and sophisticated than the original pattern. To make this simple ruffle, use the same width measurements as your skirt pieces by 4 in. Mine were 31 by 4 in. pieces. Cut 2 and stitch together at the sides using the same instructions as the skirt pieces and set aside. On your skirt pieces mark a line all the way across the front of your fabric with a washable marker 5 in. above your hem line (or if you are leaving it un-hemmed like me: 5 in. above the bottom). Line up and pin the top of your ruffle with this line and stitch in place using a ¼ to ½ in. seam. Your ruffle will fray just slightly with a few washes and add some texture to your ruffle.
Now for the recommendations: I omitted the pockets in this dress to give it a sleeker look but I will go back and add them just because I love them so much in my previous versions and the pockets don't add that much bulk to justify leaving them out. I did use an invisible zipper but there is enough stretch to opt out of this as well.
I added darts to my bodice bands just under the arms to accommodate gapping due to a larger bust line. The illustration is below to make your own. My darts were ½ in.
I shortened the straps by ½ in. on each piece for a total of 1 in. shorter straps for a bit more modesty since I will be wearing this whilst carrying a 2 yr old and bending over.
This pattern can be tricky when stitching the bands to the bodice but if you clip into the bands around the curves while pinning it makes it a lot easier. I clipped about every ¼ to ½ in around the curves. Sometimes you will have to rip back and re-sew; the dress is such a wardrobe staple that an extra 30 min is worth the time investment. Oh and one last tip: Wash this fabric at least twice. Don't just do it once. Mine shrunk a bit more after the second wash.
You can see my previous versions of this dress here and here
And you can follow my projects on twitter: get sneak peeks on upcoming projects, tips and links.
April is a Spring Wardrobe themed month. I am going to feature several great pieces to add to your Spring Wardrobe that will carry you into summer and can be added to your fall wardrobe as well in layers. My favorite fabric for spring is knit. It is so swingy and flexible. Knits are light enough to layer with leggings and a jacket for brisk mornings and can be glammed up with a sleek clutch and heels for a night out. Knits are excellent travel garments as well and are not prone to wrinkle like wovens. Great knit patterns are also easier to find than ever before and Kwik Sew has many fashionable knit patterns. One of my favorites is the Kwik Sew Knit Pull-Over Dress & Tunic. It has a simple design which makes it a shoe in for easy layering and also customization. You can make several in different colors and prints to really flesh out your closet. The fit is flattering without being clingy.
I learned my lessons from my previous knit dress and measured my pattern pieces before deciding on a size. I was between a medium and a small so I went with medium because I fall on the busty side and I didn't want to have the bodice too tight. I realize now that I should have gone with the small. I didn't take the weight of my knit into account. I prefer the medium weights and this Stretch Cotton Jersey is a bit heavy but the drape is just right. There is also considerable ease in the pattern; I suppose to prevent too tight bodices should you decide on the next size down. The fit is still good and I will not alter the dress. The tank style is very flattering, with a scoop neck that accentuates without revealing. I feel very comfortable as a mom with a toddler wearing this dress around to do my mom-like tasks. I did modify the style of dress and am very pleased with how it turned out. I wanted to display how well this pattern lends itself to modification. While a stylish cut, it is also a blank slate. It reminds me a of a really great t-shirt; you can totally wear it as is and look hot but if you add some embellishments, they will look great too.
For my modifications I added a contrasting knit trim on the neckline and armhole. I also added a scallop edging to the skirt. It was really easy too since I made a hem facing. I measured the width of the skirt piece and made a rectangle 2 in. tall by the same length. Then I chose a plate about 4.5 in. in diameter (you may need one smaller or larger if you choose a different size), there was one in my daughter's tea set. I marked on the back 4 marks each indicating ¼ of the plate. I then lined up the half plate on the fold side of my scallop pattern piece and traced it. I moved the plate over so that I then traced half the plate until I came to the edge where I again traced only ¼ of the plate. Cut out the hem facing. Tape this to the bottom of your skirt pieces before you cut out the skirt and then cut 2 of on the fold from your fabric for the hem facing following the same stretch and grain indicators from the skirt pattern pieces. Sew the skirt as directed in the pattern but instead of hemming, add your hem facing. Stitch your 2 hem facings together at the sides and with right sides together, pin and stitch your hem facing to your skirt. Clip and trim around the scallops before turning and pressing. Finish by stitching your hem facing to your skirt. You can topstitch if desired. This scallop hem really adds a bit of spring to this dress in homage to tulips and Easter. Created in a light color or soft print this dress will make a great Easter dress or tunic. I recommend a jersey or interlock, something with a good bit of stretch and experiment with a muslin to get the fit just right. This is a great wardrobe builder.
My April Blog theme is Spring Wardrobe and I am prepping for a few knit pieces. As I have been preparing, I thought it might be a good idea to post my progress and some of my short cuts as well as tools that I have found handy for successful knit sewing on a conventional machine. If you could have seen some of my first knit projects, you would only laugh. You would probably pull out something similar from your project archives- filed under "Never to see the light of day again/Failure". My first knit projects were copies of t shirts that I loved and my instructions were a few tutorials here and there from blogland. Like a teenager with out of context instructions I was sure I knew it all and jumped in with both feet. I was aghast at my outcome. A few years, a few more tutorials and a few knit sewing books (read from cover to cover several times) under my belt, my projects are looking good and I feel confident. I am not the teenager -in sewing terms-- anymore but nor am I the wise old wizard, with a "been there, done that" attitude knowing that I have faced all situations. I am just a girl with a regular sewing machine sewing knits pretty well. Here's how I do it.
I prep. HARD. I wash all my knit fabric and wash it exactly after I wear the garment. This is SO important. As much as I want to give my fabric special treatment- I treat it like any other piece of knit clothing. Next, I press all the wrinkles out and then lay it out as though to cut it on my cutting table and let it rest for an hour or more (I sometimes get distracted). The pressing can stretch and distort the knit and letting it rest will give you a truer cut than cutting into it right away.
I stay away from light weight jersey and use medium weight knits. This is my preference. I like more weight to my fabric because of the drape and how it falls on my shape. I also prefer it to sew. Light weight jersey curls like Shirley Temple's hair and it is NOT fun to sew. I also find that it is harder to rip with a seam ripper but I really think that is all me. I am probably just projecting now. I love interlock and medium weight jersey; stable knits like Ponte are also really fun.
Knits have a smaller seam allowance so if you are not comfortable with that you can cut a bigger size.
Recently I made a muslin of a knit dress for one of my upcoming projects. I had a problem with the fit. The pattern had me pegged at exactly a size 14 but it ended up being too big. I receive a great comment from Michelle Louise suggesting that I not go by the size on the envelope but measure the pattern pieces themselves. This was a great tip and it has worked really well in helping me avoid the wrong size.

I use a walking foot and it has turned my knitting life around. A regular foot would always leave me with mismatched fabric not just lengthwise but it would shift widthwise as well. I would spend so much time pinning and shifting while sewing that sewing knits was not enjoyable. With my walking foot, I use just a few pins and my fabric stays straight, inline and matches all the way to the end of the seam. Sewing knits is not stressful anymore.

I use freezer paper instead of cutting my patterns. Since I can never be sure that I am cutting the right size the first time, I just trace my pieces onto freeze paper, cut them out and iron them onto the fabric. I don't have to pin and they are reusable. This works so well with my rotary cutter. There is very little fabric distortion due to pinning and weights.
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