Recently in Ask the Expert Category

Our last Ask the Expert I didn't have time to answer a question on wooden needles and I promised to touch on it next time. Well, I decided to dedicate a whole posting to wooden needles since the types of wooden needles are vast and varying. I recommend wooden needles for every level of knitting. If you are a beginner or just getting started wooden needles are a smart "first needle" purchase because they will last your whole knitting career. Wooden needles are great for beginners because they are forgiving. They are smooth but slick like metal needles. This means they will slighty grip the yarn which will be helpful for a beginner. Most beginning kits provide metal needles which is like teaching someone to drive in a Porsche; metal is just too slick for a beginner. Wooden needles have benefits for intermediate and advanced knitters as well. Since intermediate knitters are looking to branch out and try new technique the soft and smooth characteristics will help prevent fatigue and will keep your yarn where you need it, when you need it. Advance users will appreciate that there are no allergies associated with wood. Wooden needles also vary in strength, durability and flexibility which makes it easy for an advanced knitter to find just the right wood for their preference. Below is a list of common wood types for knitting needles and their attributes. Some knitters might even prefer one wood to another based on the aesthetics of the grain alone.

Rosewood- Strong and sturdy better for small gauges, beautiful grain

Birch- tight grain and flexible

Ebony- Hard and durable

Blonde- Strong and warm

Coconut- Very strong (great for those who knit tight)

Surina- Very hard but very light

You could also include bamboo needles in this article because the attributes of bamboo in a knitting needle is so similar to wood: it is light and strong but the most flexible of "wooden" needles. Bamboo is also less expensive than wood so it makes the best beginner needle. Bamboo is a great choice for an eco-conscience person because bamboo is a grass, it grows back very quickly and the environmental impact of its harvest is minimal.  

Beth Ganse Kronlund How to cast on dpns, getting the stitches spread onto the other needles. And -- is there a difference between using 4 or 5 needles? (These questions came up at our knitting group last week.)

Beth: This is surprisingly simple and you will be shocked when you read this. I cast on all my stitches to one DPN and then slip them from the end (starting with the first cast on stitch) onto my other needles, ex: Project calls for 40 sts, cast on 40 sts onto needle #1. Then take needle #2 and slip 14 sts from #1 onto #2. Drop #2. Slip 13 sts from #1 onto needle #3, drop #3. Slip 13 sts from #1 onto needle #4. Take needle #5 to knit with. It is much easier then casting onto 3-4 needles.

The difference between 4 or 5 needles is up to you. If you have a lot of sts you will want to spread them out over 4 needles instead of 3. Some people prefer less DPN because it can get tricky handling them all. Still others only use 4 because they have lost number 5.

Carol Jacobs Which cast on do I use when?

Carol: I am not alone in trusting the Long Tail Cast On for 95% percent of my cast on needs. However, some patterns will ask you to use a specific cast on. There are still those 4.5% of projects that need something special to make the project really come together. You will know when you have one of those projects and here are some examples from my history.

Backward Loop Cast On: I use this when there are over 150 sts because I am not good at estimating how long I need my tail to be for Long Tail Cast On and I find when I try to estimate for over 150 sts I end up casting on more than 3 times and that is no fun. I don't like knitting the first row of Backward Loop Cast On but it is worth it

Provisional Cast On: Use this when you need your cast on to be invisible or to match your bind off. It is easy to pick up stitches from so you can knit match scarf ends starting in the middle. This is also a good substitute for Backwards Loop since you don't need a tail.

Cable Cast On: This is a very flexible cast on well adapted for use with cables because it is not as tight as Long Tail can be. It can also be used mid-project to add additional stitches. Best to use this only when you do need since it doesn't give as nice of a finish as Long Tail.

Em Komiskey What's a good source to learn what all the codes and abbreviations in knitting patterns mean? What the best resources for someone who has never picked up a knitting needle before? Any suggestions on first projects that won't discourage the learner?

Em: Many abbreviations change from source to source but there is always a key. However, once you learn them from one source you can see the subtle changes when used in another source, ex: Knit 2 together might be "k2tg" in one pattern and "k2tog" in another. I would use a trusted source to learn a list of standard abbreviations and codes and work from there. I learned from Knitty.com and Interweave Knits magazine. I find Knitty is easier when I am by a computer because I can access it anywhere and Interweave Knits is good when I am on the go without internet access because one issue can fit in my purse. However, if you find a pattern that has a code that is not referenced and is unfamiliar to you, you can always email the author or message them on Ravelry, email me or try the Knitty.com Coffeeshop (Knitty's forum with swarms of helpful knitters).

I would suggest Knitty.com as the best resource for a new knitter because they have tons of technique articles, the patterns are rated for difficulty and each issue is small so they won't be overwhelmed. When the aforementioned knitter is ready for more, show them Ravelry!

I always recommend dishcloths for first projects because they are completed quickly so the knitter can show off the goods and not be bogged down with a scarf which is LONG. They are easy, make great gifts, usable and can be sewn together to make blankets. Dishcloths are also a great way to practice new techniques.

Patti Linder LOL! How do I keep my daughter's cats from playing with my yarn when I'm knitting at her apartment?

Patti: You have 2 options- either establish dominance early on via staring contest or bribe said cats with hand knit toys. Of course, you can always choose to keep your yarn balls in zip top bags (the bags your yarn from Fabric.com is shipped are my favorite) or you can make a Stash Bag like I use when knitting on the go. 

Hi all- Welcome back to "Ask the Expert" where I answer your questions weekly so you can get back to knitting. Side note: No questions are dumb questions. Seriously, if you want to ask it than it can't be dumb. You are probably not the only person to want the answer, just the first to ask it.

Down to business-

This first question comes via email:

I knit English but my mom knits continental; which is better? Should I consider switching?

It is not a question of better- to each her own when it comes to knitting style. It is also not determined by which hand is your dominate hand. I am a righty and knit English (though I can change it up continental style) my mother in law is also a righty but knits continental. It really depends on how you are taught or really just what you feel comfortable with when you first pick up the needles. I have taught beginners both styles and I just ask them to pick which ever they prefer. Some will say that continental is faster than English but the world's fastest knitter knits English style.

Question 2 also via email:

How do I measure my gauge swatch to make sure it is correct?

Knit at least 4 in. by 4 in. in the pattern gauge. Lay down your swatch and try to get the yarn to relax a little. This will vary by yarn but you can try stretching it, smoothing it, shaking it. You will know it when you try it. Sometimes nothing needs to be done. Then using a ruler count the number of stitches that covers 4 in. across and then the number of rows that makes up 4 in. Compare that to your gauge. If you are 1 stitch or row off, I would not recommend adjusting your needle size but anymore than that, I would.

Question 3 from Facebook:

Anna asks: How do you connect different colors into one row?

You can either knit the tail in with the working yarn for about 2 or 3 stitches; this is a very neat option and weaves in the end at the same time. Or you can knot the new color into you knitting but this is not the neatest option. It makes for a messy wrong side and can be uncomfortable if it is a garment. If you are knitting Intarsia make sure you hook your new color around your old color, once, to prevent any holes.

Question 4 is also from Facebook:

Darcie asks: "End on WS" means end after the wrong side or ready to knit the wrong side?

This means you end after knitting a wrong side row, ready to begin on a right side row. It can also go by "End with WS"

Question 5 comes from the Blog

Mayflower 23 asks: Among some of the things that still baffle me are selvedge edges. I am trying to remember to slip that first stitch every time I knit flat but it hasn't become second nature to me just yet. My question is how do I slip the first stitch if I'm knitting garter stitch? Does it change for stockinette? Does my working yarn have to be on one side or the other or just where it should be for the type of stitch I'm about to knit? Perhaps a rundown on this topic would be as much help to others as it would be to me.

Let me start by saying that I do not slip the first stitch unless called for the in pattern. It is too hard to remember and seems unneeded to me. I sometimes like to cut corners, that's how I roll. But if you still really, really, really want to slip stitches, if you are knitting garter, slip is knit wise. Stitch you needle in the loop to knit and then slip it. It can change for stockinette, but doesn't have to. The edge will be the same as with garter but it may be easier to remember and you don't have to throw you yarn around if you slip it knit wise on the knit side and purl wise on the purl side.

Your working yarn should be on the side of the stitch you are using (front on the purl side and back on the knit side) or according to pattern. Some patterns (like lace, eyelets and a combo with ribs. See Barbara Walker's Knitting Treasuries for examples). This is a great topic you bring up and I am putting it on my calendar now for a more intensive rundown. Look for it in July but in the mean time I hope this helps and if not let me know and I can revisit next week.

 

Keep your questions coming! You can submit them via email, comments on the blog, Facebook and Twitter. I will make sure and do a round up on Facebook and Twitter on Mondays to remind you to ask your knitting questions. 

P.s. The picture features my beginning of the Lady Eleanor Stole from Interweave Knits Scarf Style

Fabric.com is new to knitting, so it follows that most of our customers must be as well. But even the more seasoned knitters have questions that need answers. Forums are great but sometimes your questions can go weeks without answer and finding the right forum can be tricky. Maybe you just need a yarn recommendation, or an explanation of a cast-on. Or maybe your question is trickier than that. Ask it.  Every Wed will feature "Ask the Expert" posts here at the blog.

You can submit your question as a comment on the blog. Every Wed. I will pick 5 questions and answer them. I will try to pick the questions that are the most helpful to most of the readers but, of course, I will also pay heed to those who just need specific help. I encourage all forms of flattery and general sucking up. In fact, I would as far as to say that it will greatly improve your chances of having your question answered. However, we all know how gracious and generous we knitters are so I am sure that even if you call me a "fat cow who dresses in plaids and stripes" (I assure you I do not) that if I find merit in your question, I will answer it while secretly hoping it takes you three tries to get gauge. You can vote on comments too.

I will break the ice by answering a few questions that some of my neighbors have thrown my way in the past few weeks.

Q: What are your favorites when it comes to knitting?

A: That is a broad question so I will toss out the first things that come to mind. I love wool. Love it. It is so soft and colorful. It has great stitch definition but is so springy so I consider it forgiving. It doesn't make my hands feel "weird" like cotton can.

I love hats. You can do anything with them. They knit up in hours. Everyone loves getting a hat. You can make the funkiest hat and it will not look weird if you wear it right. Here is one of my fave's, I make one a year (at least).

Wooden needles are my favorite. I am allergic to nickel and most metal needles are nickel plated. They make my joints ache and my fingers feel tired. I get worn out quickly knitting with metal. I like Acrylic too but sometimes they are too slick for me.

Q: What cast-on do you most recommend for a beginner (and I mean a BEGINNER!)

A: I like 2. The backward loop is the easiest to learn and get started but can be a bit tricky for a newbie to knit the first row due to the nature of the loop being so adjustable. The long-tail cast-on takes more practice to get but it is easy to knit the first row and makes a really nice, neat edge. So it depends on you. Do you want to just cast-on and go or do you really want to make it easier in the long run.

Q: I really want to feel the yarn- I can't get over that to buy online.

A: Unless you are new to fiber, you know what it feels like. Merino more or less feels the same.  The prices can't be beat. You are saving the drive and time plus you can shop in your own home. Do you really need to feel wool again to see that is AWESOME? The bottom line is: you have to trust the site you are purchasing from. If they say it is soft, it is. If they say that it is springy or fluffy or smooth, trust them. If you can't trust their opinion of yarn fibers, why in the heck are you giving them your credit card number!? Fabric.com's merchandisers are pros when it comes to fiber. Every yarn gets put into the store by a real person. They touch it, think about it and write about it. Plus if you need more, you can call their customer service. I am sure they would love a chance to get their hands on it too!

Best of knitting to you: Tara Miller