Apparel: April 2012 Archives
The appeal of the Kwik Sew Bohemian Short Sleeved Dress pattern is its simplicity. Since I love a quick project that I can make in a night to wear the next day, this one sparked my interest. The breezy feel of it was also a draw because it looked cool and comfortable -- vital in any Atlanta girl's wardrobe once May arrives.
For my first version of this pattern, I chose a zebra printed ITY. It whipped together like a dream, and it is beyond comfy. The pattern itself really couldn't be easier. The elastic at the neckline and sleeves is inset before you close those seams, which makes it a breeze to assemble -- easy as pie to make sure your elastic hasn't twisted.
I am short -- 5'3" -- and I have a full bust, and I felt like the neckline dipped a little to low to wear without a camisole or tank top underneath it.
This dress is a packing dream -- especially in ITY. You can easily roll it and toss it in a bag. It takes up no space and doesn't wrinkle. Also, because the ITY is lightweight and glides on the body, it's great for layering. I paired it with a denim vest and really loved the combo.
For my second version, I used a printed rayon blend rib knit, and I cut the neckline about 1.5" higher than the pattern called for. This gave me better coverage through the bust line.
Rayon blend knits are always so, so soft. This version is so comfy and cozy that it made me think this would be a great pattern to make up as a nightgown. That's like two patterns in one! Score!
I had the pleasure of getting a head start on Fabric.com's newest Free Pattern Download by Create Kids Couture: Hannah's Pillowcase Bubble Romper. Seeing this pattern brought back memories for me. My mom told me that I used to run around in these rompers when I was my daughter's age. Though I remember that all of mine featured the classic 1980's rainbow and terry cloth, I loved them anyway because as a busy kid I was able to get dressed with one article of clothing. I am glad to be able to pass this onto my daughter. This pattern was quick and fun! I did make a few adjustments for my little one and since she has been wearing it I have a few more. I will share all.
First I did not make the
belt, either one. The reason for this was two fold: 1) I didn't think my daughter
would tolerate it and 2) I have a limited wiggle-free time to dress her so I
decided the time was better spent with socks, shoes or pony tails instead of
belts (though I think both belts are adorable).
Next, I chopped off the
top part of the romper right below the arm holes and stitched on a coordinating
fabric (if you follow suit make sure you add in a sew allowance when cutting
your coordinating piece). The bias trim matches the main romper fabric and I
made the tie for the top out of my remaining bias trim, making it the same
length as the thin tie. I also used the elastic at the legs since I don't have
a serger. But if you want to shirr, you could add 3/4 in. to the legs when
cutting, fold up ¼ in. press, fold up ½ in. press and then shirr the legs.
In the future (probably
this weekend), I will pull out the ties and make straps. I recommend, folding
down the front and back for the casing (before adding the bias on the arms) but
adding elastic instead (I am going to use 5-6 in. for the size 3T. Then make
the bias trim continue past the arm holes on the front and back to make straps
that tie. This allows for younger kids to take off the romper by themselves and
easily. The elastic still allows for the gathers but gives some room when
pulling the romper down for potty stops and the straps mean little ones can
pull it off and on by themselves without having to tie ties.
Finally, I want to add
some rows of shirring onto the romper right at the waist. This will give a
similar look to the belts but without the extra accessory. I am considering
just two or three rows but we shall see how many I end up with. I just want to
nip in the waist a bit since it so roomy.
I have to say that my
little one looks so amazingly cute running around in her romper that I know
more will be coming. It is perfect for hot days, playing in the sprinklers and
running to the pool.
I used Moda prints for my romper and think my next will feature Moda Dottie!!
UPDATE:
The Create Kids Couture Hannah
Pillowcase Bubble Romper is now available for download. And my pattern
modifications discussed above are finished and ready for posting. I was too
excited to wait for this weekend. First, I pulled out the one long shoulder tie
and inserted 6 in. of 1/4 in. elastic into each casing (one for the front and
one for the back) and stitched them in place. First I stitched up one end and
then pulled the elastic through the other end and left a little hanging out so
I could hold it tight while stitching and then trimmed it off so it was invisible
(very similar to adding the shoulder elastic to the Oliver + S Class Picnic top. Then I cut 4 ties, 10 in. long
and stitched them onto either side of each casing to make tie-able straps. The
elastic plus strap making it easy for younger kids to pull the straps off and
down for changing and potty breaks but doesn't ruin the styling of the gathers
and ties. You can stitch your ties tied to prevent them being untied by curious
hands.
Finally, I added 3 rows of
elastic shirring at the waist. I started 6 in. from the crotch seam but in
hindsight I wish I had measured higher, maybe 8-10 in. from the crotch seam or
halfway between the bottom of the armholes and the crotch seam. I followed the
instructions for elastic shirring provided for the shirred belt. I added 3 rows of stitching 1/2 in. apart. The shirring
worked great and looks super cute. My daughter loves this even more now that
she can take it off herself and I love the elastic waist that helps the romper
stay in place. Share with us your modifications on our Facebook page!
Obsession is a bit of an overstatement (just a bit) when it comes to my desire to try out our new Stretch Ruffle Knit Fabric. I loved it from first sight and once I had it in hand it was even more delicious! The small ruffles are just right; a slight shake here or shimmy there and the whole fabric dances. It would be perfect for turning any ordinary project into something wonderful! I set to work right away on a simple little dress for my little one. I envisioned something she could run around and play in but also wear out, should we be brave enough to take her "someplace nice", and family pictures. What I ended up with was so much more.
Let me start by saying that there is a fair amount of stretch to this fabric which makes it ideal for kids clothing. While this dress looked so fancy on my daughter it did not feel fancy (to me fancy kids clothing= uncomfortable). She loved wearing it. I loved how RIDICULOUSLY easy it was to make. The dress features 2 gores in the back for extra swing and extra running leg room plus 'Y' shaped straps that fasten in the back with Velcro. This makes adjusting for a tank top underneath or slipping on over a swimsuit simple. I have also found that should your child tend toward tantrums when it comes time to undress, just a quick swipe of the fingers and the dress is off!
To make your own follow below:
Materials
1 yd Stretch Ruffle Knit fabric
¼ yd of Quilting Cotton
6 in. of 3/4in. wide Velcro
Cut a rectangle that is 15-18 in. long (depending on how tall your child is or how long you want the dress. Mine was 18 in. for a 3yr old) by the width of her chest. Also cut 2 gores that are the same length as your rectangle but 1 in. wide at the top and 4 in. wide at the bottom. Cut 25 in. of bias tape from the quilting cotton as well as two 4.5 in. by 8 in straps and one 4.5 in. by 6 in. strap.
Begin by joining the gores to each side of the rectangle, RS together and stitch in place using a zig zag stitch. Then join the 2 gores together making a tube. Stitch a basting stitch around the top of the tube and slightly gather the top of your dress since the added gores have made it wider than the chest measurement. Gather until your dress is back to the chest measurement. Pin your bias tape to the top of your dress (RS facing) and stitch in place using a zigzag stitch. Fold over your bias tape and stitch in place using a small zig zag stitch or longer straight stitch.
Fold one of your straps in half along its length and press, open up and fold each edge toward the center crease and press in place (you are folding it in quarters). Fold along the center crease and press again and pin along the open edge. Stitch the strap closed using a ¼ in. seam and then added more decorative stitching at ¼ in. intervals. Repeat for the remaining straps.
Cut your Velcro into two 2 in. length and pull apart. On one long strap pin and stitch one female Velcro piece, pin and stitch the male piece onto the other long strap. On the shorter strap, pin and stitch one female piece on one side and pin and stitch one male piece on the other side. Mark your long strap placement by trying the dress on your child or using another dress as a guide stitch in place using 2 lines of stitching. Center your short strap on the back gores and stitch in place using 2 lines of stitching to secure.
You're done. The Velcro not only makes for easy dressing and undressing but allows you to adjust the angle of the straps for maximum comfort. This dress makes a great swimsuit cover up or picnic play dress- if she spills ketchup on it no need to worry about how to keep it out of her hair as your pull the dress off, just release the straps and step out!
I was inspired by this blog post I found on Pinterest of a recreation of a Banana Republic T-shirt with a braided neckline. I loved it however, both the recreation and the original were loose fitting in order to create the braided neckline. I didn't want a loose shirt, I have had enough. I wanted to create the braided neckline with a fitted or semi fitted Tee (Heck, any fit that you prefer). I also didn't like the ruching-gathering that was the natural bi-product of the recreation tutorial. So I decided to find a way of adding the braiding without the extras I didn't want. Here's how to do it.
First cut out your chosen t-shirt pattern but don't assemble. From the remaining fabric cut a 4 in wide strip that is 2.5 times the length you need your finished braid to be (Ex: for a 15 in. braid, I cut a 38 in. long strip). Layout your strip and cut a widthwise slit every 2 in. down the length leaving .5 in. on each side.
Next, we start braiding. Start at the right end, take the top most loop (there are now 2 parts to this strip, the slits and the loops. The loops are the sections of fabric in between each slit) and pull it up a bit to create a void.
Take the second loop and pull it up though the void you just created and pull it back down again.
Now take the 3rd loop and pull it up through the 2nd and pull it back down. Continue in this pattern until you have used up all your loops.
Secure each end with a quick little zig zag stitch. Make the braid a little longer than needed so the zig zag stitch will be hidden in each shoulder seam (you can always stretch it a bit if it is not quite long enough).
Pull the braid a bit to shape the braid and pull all the loops into place.
Pin the braid onto your neckline, overlapping the braid over the neck edge a bit and leaving the zig zag stitch hidden in the shoulder seam allowance. Stitch in place using a medium straight stitch worked down the middle of the braid. Next stitch another line about ¼ in. away from the center stitch line on the inside edge of the neckline (Not closest to the neck edge) tucking in the edges of the braid as you go. This final stitch line will keep the raw edges hidden and keep the braid from rolling to the wrong side of the t-shirt. Add some binding to the neck edge of the back t-shirt piece.
Assemble your t-shirt according to your pattern.
Feel free to add more than one braided piece to your neckline or at the waist. You can experiment with the size of your loops by cutting slits every 1 in or 3 in. this will make your braid more delicate or chunkier depending on the look and where you are placing your braided trim.
I used our Rayon Slub Jersey Knit Fabric. It is soft and has a night light drape. I recommend a jersey knit because the natural curl with hide any raw edges of the braid trim.
According to Wikipedia a Layette consists of a collection of clothing for a new born baby but can include bedding, accessories and care items. With my first child I had a shower and received many of these items as gifts and most of them were gender neutral (I was adverse to pink and ruffles which has declined somewhat). This is good since we do not yet know the gender of our second kid and won't find out for another few weeks. I want to start working on the layette now without knowing the gender. I am going start on the easily gender neutral items such as hood towels, blankets and hats that I have seen in some posh shops but know I can make for less.
On a recent trip to Charleston, SC I popped into an adorable kid shop that was selling super soft, super cute Aden and Anais Cotton Muslin receiving blankets. They were amazing but I'm going to recreate them using our Batiste fabric self lined and using fabric paint and stamps embellish with cute little designs just like the originals.
Another Must-have baby item that I see in every magazine in my doctor's waiting room is the Redfish Kimono Onesie. I love the bell shaped sleeves and wide leg openings. Created in a green, white or red color print, these Onesies could easily cloth a sweet little boy or girl. I, of course, will be pulling fabrics from our Retro & Mod section or maybe some jersey knit prints.
I am also jonesing to knit something for the little one. I have a ton of great yarn in neutral colors (I just love the way grey pairs so well with blue or pink or yellow or green or ...). I found these amazing garter stitch hats over at Land of Nod, hand knit from cotton with a neat little tassel at the top. So easy and quick I could make 3-4 before I was sick of the pattern. I love the creative color combinations too. Must duplicate!
Finally, I found a Toweling Romper at Boden (My favorite site) and it was love at first sight. The idea is brilliant especially considering I had a robe for my first baby and that was a disaster. She hated bathes and trying to get a crying, thrashing baby into a robe that ties only was not working out. But this combo romper plus towel will dry your baby and keep him/her warm while you calm them down or assess the water damage. The store bought romper has a snap front but I am considering some Velcro to make it even faster!
This should keep me busy or 2-3 weeks. Look for my future posts where I will share the patterns and modifications for each item I make so you can recreate it too!
Picture from Two on, Two off
April's Blog of the Month is Two On, Two off. When I came across Dawn's blog I thought that she was funny and had a really great sense of style. I am amazed at all the garments that she has created. The fabric and pattern combinations are inspiring for the most jaded of sewers. If you are considering giving up garment sewing because you are bored or just aren't "feeling it" any more, check out Two on, Two off and you will be back in business in no time. It is hard not to itch for some apparel fabric and a few patterns once you read this blog. My favorite is her version of Butterick 5634 Ruffled Dress. I love this dress so much I am tempted to track this blog mistress down and steal it from her closet. Dawn is great at providing tons of well-done pictures and explains all the changes she did or didn't make to each pattern. Sometimes the piece is quick and easy and lovely, sometimes it is complicated but still lovely and each time she will let you know how it really broke down! She is honest, clever and humorous.
Dawn is also sponsored by Fabric.com which I was surprised to find out after I had spent about 45 min. cruising her blog, reading many of her posts. I rarely check out the sidebars in blogs until I am committed and I want to see what else is available (categories, archives, etc). After I was sure Two on, Two off would be this month's blog of the month, I glanced over and smiled to see our logo. This means any Fabric.com links you see on her blog, she gets a little something for sharing the love with us. Among other interesting links in her sidebar are a list of her favorite tutorials, her Sewing Pattern Review contributions and her favorite blogs. I love finding blog lists on my favorite blogs; it's like finding a list of recommended books at the end of a great book (oh how I wish this really were so!). Dawn's blog roll is quite extensive but worthy of time- should you have a long lunch break, nap or slow day at work). However, if I am going to remember anything from discovering Two on, Two off it is a new appreciation of fabric. Dawn's enthusiasm is addictive!
I love the Nancy Dress/Skirt Pattern (Evidence here and here). I have made 2 and I wear them as soon as the temp hits 70 deg and wear them into the fall with leggings. I wear it as a skirt or a dress and love it especially as a skirt folded over. I continue to love it in my second trimester because it fits and is so nice to wear pulled up for support or folded over. Since maxi anything is all the rage now I knew I had to modify my favorite clothing item into a maxi skirt. I love it and have gotten so many compliments so far. I hemmed mine about ½ in. above my heels so it just skims the floor and puddles on the tops of my feet. It swishes wonderfully when I walk and looks divine with just a tank top and cardi with a chunky necklace. Or you can pop on some pearls, a t-shirt tucked in and some glitzy sandals for a date night. Any way you wear you feel fabulous and sexy just by slipping on this long knit skirt. Here's how to make your own.
First, download and print the Nancy Dress Free Pattern Download and assemble your pattern. Then measure from the top of your hip to the floor. You can do this by taping your measuring tape on to the wall and marking it with a pen/pin when standing next to it right where the top of your hip bone hits. Add 2 in. to this measurement. Extend the length of the skirt pattern piece from the Nancy Dress until it matches this measurement (This will customize the skirt to your height). Your skirt will probably need from 2 to 2.5 yds of jersey knit fabric in the pattern or color of your choice. Cut out your pattern pieces and assemble according to the pattern instructions but using a double turn 1 in hem at the bottom. This will give it weight so it drapes well, hangs just right and swishes while you walk. Pin your hem before you sew it so you can determine if it is right for you. Some like their maxis a little shorter than others. Try on your skirt and turn around to you can see from all angles and take a few steps to see how it feels. Adjust as needed.
P.s. It is perfect for windy beach vacations!
I know I am not that far into my pregnancy but since this is my second child, I am showing sooner and already find my pre-pregnancy clothing uncomfortable and I am ready for some maternity wear. This transition occurred just as I was prepared to pack away my family's winter clothing and bring out the warm weather wear. As I did this I happily discovered many of my favorite pieces from my previous projects could easily carry me through most, if not all, of my pregnancy. I will share with you which I am rocking currently and which I plan to modify for later wear when I am much, much bigger.
First up is my current favorite (Heather
Ross Mendocino Sundress) because it is so comfy plus so chic. I instantly feel
pulled together and lovely even though I am still suffering from morning
all-day sickness. I cannot live without the pockets either which make it great
for storing sippy cups, phone, keys and various rocks and flowers picked up on my
many walks outside with my daughter. The elastic shirring means it will grow
with me (everywhere it seems) and I don't show yet when wearing this dress. Free
Pattern download from original post, click on link above.
Second, I am loving my Infinity Dress in ITY Knit. It is so easy to switch it up to hide or show off which ever parts I need to hide or draw attention to (to distract away from another area) since I am not in the "oh your pregnant, how wonderful" stage, more like the "I wonder if she's pregnant or just hitting the ice cream a little too hard" stage. Given this, having a dress that I can change each day and with my mood makes me feel like my old self: a million bucks. This dress can take me from school to a wedding in just a few minutes. The stretch of the ITY will accommodate my growing belly in style and comfort.
Third in my go-to maternity wardrobe is my Kwik Sew Knit Pullover dress that I modified with a scallop hem. Not only it this dress knit (stretch!) but the gathered waist features elastic meaning it is great for showing off a svelte waist when not pregnant and fitting around a growing belly when you are. The wide tank straps allow me to wear any bra I like which can vary on a day to day basis. This dress is nothing but relaxing to wear because it is just one item of clothing and I am ready to go with a pair of sandals.
Lastly, I already have the HotPatterns Cabriolet Dress/Skirt in Wool for winter but I am planning on making it in cotton for this summer. With the ties I can wrap it under my belly and as a dress I can have the ties go under my décolletage and above my belly giving me some definition but mostly style and comfort. I am torn between a bold busy pattern or a subdued floral (like Shannon's, click link above). Both shout summer to me. I guess I will just have to make it in both! This is a Fabric.com Free Pattern Download!
Things are already hot in Atlanta, so I'm definitely ready for summer clothes. I am eager for flowing, breezy style that doesn't drag me down when the temps are climbing, so a tropical skirt is perfect for my sewing mood right now.
The trick with maxi skirts, for me, is that I'm ... shrimpy. I stand 5'3" on a good day with perfect posture, so most maxi dresses or skirts drag the ground on me unless I make some alterations. This pattern is perfect for such alterations because of the multiple tiers. The trick is ensuring that when you make changes, you maintain the seam lines so everything still matches up. Here's how I do it on a project like this one:
First, I assembled the pattern as intended. Here is lower middle tier piece at its normal length:
When it came time to shorten the pattern, I pulled the taped pieces apart (I use an inexpensive athletic tape for assembly -- it comes apart without much struggle, but it also holds well):
Then, I reassembled the pattern piece so that the overlap between the two pieces of paper was much greater, shortening it by several inches:
To even out the outside cutting edge, I trimmed the excess paper that prevented a smooth transition from one piece of the pattern paper to the next:
Here's the altered pattern piece, with the small piece I trimmed off sitting next to it:
I did the alteration for the middle two tiers. I determined after measuring the original pattern that I wanted to take between 4" and 5" off the total length of the skirt, so I divided that between the middle two tiers.
This method ensures that the seams that join one tier to the next all stay intact. Hooray!
I also wanted to try altering the pattern in a way that makes a shorter skirt, but maintains the design lines of the original.
I decided to use the top two tiers of the skirt as-is, but then I wanted just a short tier after that to finish below the knee around mid calf. To make my third, shortened bottom edge pattern piece, I traced the lower middle tier piece, and then used the lower tier piece to determine the length of my traced piece. Again, I used this approach rather than using the existing lower layer to make sure my seams all matched up.
I chose a pink eyelet for this version, and I wanted to take advantage of the scalloped edge on the fabric, so I cut it as my hem. Here you can see how I cut the pieces for the lowest tier of this version right along the finished edge of the fabric. 
I never like to waste a good thing, so I cut a 2" strip along the second finished edge of the eyelet and worked it in between the lowest two layers of my skirt:
Here's my finished second skirt. The eyelet seriously needs a slip under it, or, as I plan to do, an underlayer worked into the skirt itself. 
As always, my favorite thing about the Hot Patterns free downloads is how versatile they are. I don't feel guilty hacking away at a pattern to customize it, because I can always print a fresh copy. (I use the paper scraps for notes so I don't waste, I promise!)How will you make this summer skirt uniquely your own?
It comes as no surprise that I am quite pleased that Fabric.com has added a kids clothing designer to our growing line of Free Pattern Downloads, Create Kids Couture. The first pattern released for free download is the Marilyn Slim Fit Peasant Dress & Top which I made this past weekend and loved. I was surprised to find what a fan I am of a well placed ruffle especially when the model is so especially cute in well placed ruffles.
First, this was a pretty quick garment to stitch up. The pattern is easy to cut and assemble with most of the pattern pieces rectangles that you cut out according to your size from the chart provided. The only piece you need to print and cut is the sleeve cup. The directions are a snap given that you are provided with pictures along with your instructions. This is a fun pattern to experiment with different fabric combos too because you can opt for just one fabric for the whole garment, 2 fabrics (one for the body and another for the sleeves and ruffle) or go crazy with 3 fabrics (one for each the body, sleeve and ruffle).
I am a really big fan of the elastic neckline. It creates a very soft shape that doesn't shift and my little one found comfy. PLUS, it can be stretched for larger heads or so you don't mess up those braids you spent 15 min persuading your little girl to "sit still" for. I chose not to add elastic to the arms because my daughter ending up not liking it (though today she might like it) and I thought it was too puffy. The plain sleeves look just as beautiful. I created the top length and am very pleased with the length. It is just right for a top though if you omit the ruffle (which I will try the next time I make it just for a different look) I will add 2 in. to the body to compensate. Despite the "Slim Fit" in the name, I found this dress very roomy for my preschool that still sports the toddler big round belly. She didn't feel confined or restricted in her movement. The top was a big hit! You can also try this pattern in a knit. Just cut a size smaller and cut the stretch widthwise on all pieces.
I have been wanting to test drive the Hot Patterns Weekender Track & Field Cargo Pants pattern for a while. The pieced legs and topstitched detailing really appeal to me, but I also was a little fretful that it would make for a very arduous process, getting all those details in place.
So, as I was cutting, I couldn't help but think, "This pattern has 8,000 pieces. This is gonna take forEVER." But once my cutting was complete and I set to work, I found that things actually moved along at a decent pace. There is a certain measure of patience you need whenever you set your sights on a project that has a lot of details, but I generally find that patience is handsomely rewarded. I am happy to report that is the case with these pants.
I opted for an organic sweatshirt fleece for this pair. Now that I have one run through this pattern under my belt, I know I want to make another in a fabric that has no stretch, just to see how it compares.
To give you an example of the detailing process on these pants, I photographed the back pocket assembly as I went.
First up, there's a semi-circle of topstitching that goes on the assembled pocket flap. I knew I couldn't possibly just wing it and get anything even vaguely akin to a circular arc, so I cut a circle out of a scrap I had on hand and marked it's edge at four equidistant points so I could line it up consistently. Then I safety pinned it in place, and used it as a guide for my stitching.
Voila! Circular stitching made easy.
First comes the stitching that attaches the pocket to the trouser section and creates the pocket's finished top edge. You'll see here that I've clipped the corners to turn it:
Here's the interior of the pants back piece with the pocket flipped in. The second pocket piece will situate right on top of this one (from this side) and then you stitch through all three layers (back of pants, and two layers of pockets) to create the enclosed pocket:
Here is the pocket from the right side, with the second layer of pocket stitched in and top stitching around the pocket shape. Ready to hold your smartphone!
The pocket flap is stitched into the seam that joins the back yoke to the back pants.
As you can imagine, each detail on these pants is comprised of a handful of steps, just as this pocket was.
I find if I think about each section as a small series of steps like this was, I don't get overwhelmed by the details on a project. I just keep plugging away, and before I know it, all of those seemingly 8,000 pieces are in play.
I love these pants. While I was photographing them. my husband kept telling me how cool he thought they were, and I have to agree. The design is fab. The pants are sporty and comfy, but all the details make them sophisticated enough that you could wear them to work if you have an office that's got a business casual vibe. Pair them with a tee shirt for weekend wear or a blazer for the office. Or, make them out of a completely luxe fabric, and they're perfect for date night. I've got my eye on a stretch sateen for my next pair!
