Fabric.com Blog

When you walk into the Fabric.com offices you can't help but notice that spring is in the air! Our wardrobes have transitioned from the neutral layers of winter to bright and colorful minimal layers that come with warmer temperatures. But the biggest indicator of the rising temperature is that our little toes have come out from winter hibernation and they are ready to be shown off! As you know

this Spring/Summer is all about color, color and more color! Color is everywhere from bright candy colored denim, to eye-popping neon colors and outrageously bold prints, there is just no way to escape the color explosion! So what better way to show off this of the moment fashion color trend than with a head turning nail polish color worn on your toes or fingers. Who would of thought that nail polish would become the must have fashion accessory of the moment? But why not - it's inexpensive, fun and versatile and an easy way to play with fashion trends and show off your own unique style. The options for nail polish are truly endless - you can get it with sparkles, crackled, rhinestones, metallic, marbled, iridescent and the list goes on and on. It is really up to you how simple or extravagant you choose to go with your nail color. And don't worry if you don't like the color, the beautiful thing about nail polish is that you can easily wipe it off and start over! So the next time you are in a fashion slump pull out your favorite nail polish and get to painting! Check out our brightly colored toes showcased in our sassiest summer sandals for some style inspiration!

If the thought of knitting in warm weather just doesn't get your excited but like many knitters you can't seem to quit the habit, consider small projects as a way to bridge the gap until the fall. Small projects fit into cute little summer bags, don't cover your lap and offer quicker turn around. A quick turnaround is key because as summer progresses and fills with activities you have less focused time to dedicate to big projects with lots of instructions. Smaller projects can be knit in a few hours and don't involve staying mentally centered on one technique or project for long, making it easier if you get interrupted or need to take frequent breaks (soccer games, doctors' appt, carpooling, etc).

I love knitting hats for all of the reasons above added to the fact that they can be customized with simple details. Allow hats to give you the opportunity to try new stitch patterns with little commitment. Hats also require smaller amount of yarn so you can try to reduce your stash to make room for your winter splurge or to try daring color combinations. I recently knit a small baby hat in just a few hours and loved every minute. I did try a color combo I was unsure of initially. I wanted something gender neutral since I don't yet know the gender of my incoming little one but also colors that I could add blue or pink to later after we find out. My baby hat was a great knit on a warm day because it was so small, I was totally comfy working my cotton/wool blend yarn and it gave me a great excuse to take a break off my feet.

I used the pattern Kim's Hat from Last Minute Knitted Gifts by Jovelle Hoverson, one of my favorite hat patterns. This is the garter brim version; however I flipped mine inside out so the purl bumps are on the outside. Using the garter brim version but flipping it inside out gives me a look similar to the Land of Nod Chickadee Hat I posted a few weeks ago but keeps the brim from rolling as it would if the hat was knit entirely with Stockingette stitch. This hat is worked on the WS then turned inside out to the RS. I knit the brim in Lion Brand Baby's First Honey Bee then changed to Lion Brand Wool Ease Chunky Fisherman (I chose a wool blend for the majority of the hat because my hat will be worn in fall to winter) but you can stick with Baby's First for a cotton based hat. I switch colors on a knit row so you could see the color change on the purl side but if you don't want to see the color change do it on a purl row in the brim. The color change will face you but, remember, the WS is facing you right now.  I finished off my hat with a cute little tassel, wound around 3 of my fingers using about 3-4 yds of yarn. Then tie to secure and clip to even up the tassel. Tie onto the top of your hat. The duplicate stitch vertical row and brim whip stitch will be added later once the gender is known.  

This one goes out to all the pet people! This particular post is cat-focused, but doggies are always welcome to hang.I like 'em all!

Pets wearing clothes in one of those polarizing topics. Some people think it's hilarious to put clothes on their pets, while others think it's incredibly cruel. My stance on the topic is in the middle -- if the pet is OK with it, so am I, but it breaks my heart to see an animal struggle or thrash around in fear or discomfort.

However, there are some cat breeds that actually benefit from having a good shirt. These include the hairless Sphynx and the curly-haired Rex breeds. Because the fur on these guys is either missing or less dense than your average house cat, they lose their body heat easily. Their exposed skin also puts them at risk for sunburn when they fall asleep too long in a sunbeam. Seriously, you do NOT want to deal with a cat with a sunburn.

I am lucky enough to have a Devon Rex named Mr. Burns in my brood -- so I'm familiar with the constant heat-seeking of a chilly feline. To help him out, I decided to try my hand at making him a shirt. Luckily, Mr. Burns is one of those rare cats that doesn't mind wearing clothes a bit.

First, I took his measurements and drew up a plan. (I am keenly aware that he's a butterball. We're working on it.) I measured him around the widest part of his belly, across his back from one shoulder to another, and the length from his neck to almost the base of his tail.

Note that my sketch for the top and bottom pieces is woefully off, proportionally speaking.

To start cutting on the fleece I selected, I first cut a piece 11 inches wide and 13 inches long. The grain runs along the 13 inch length so the piece stretches across the 11 inch span. I folded the piece in half so I could cut the fabric according to my measurements and keep it symmetrical.

To start shaping the piece, I first cut a curve along the bottom. The shirt will be longer on the cat's back and a little shorter on the belly, so the cat can groom as normal without getting a mouthful of fleece.

Next, I made a cut from the widest part of the piece at the bottom, angling in to the narrowest measurement at the top. For Burnsy, I wanted an 8 inch width across the back of the neck. Because cats' necks are very delicate -- much more so than a dog's -- it's better to cut the neck wide and then take it in a little after a fitting than to have it too tight.

Then I cut semicircles for the leg holes.

To cut the belly of the shirt, I cut another rectangle, this one 9 inches wide, and folded it in half as I did the first rectangle. Then I aligned the folded back piece with the underpiece and used it as a cutting guide.Not that the folded edge of the back piece sits (folded) and inch back from the folded edge of the underpiece.

After the two pieces were cut, I just joined them at the sides with the serger, then I cut two pieces of soft rayon knit each 6 inches by 2 inches, and used those to make mini sleeves that finished the arm holes. Since I'm working with fleece, I'm not going to add bulk by hemming the top or bottom. Here's the shirt laid out flat:

OK, time to fit it on Mr. Burns! Forgive the fuzziness in these images. Anyone who has tried to take photos of a pet knows that they rarely cooperate. As you can see, this shirt run a little tight across the upper back -- the arm holes need to be cut wider.

Mr. Burns didn't seem to bothered, and trotted all over the house in his new shirt, but the fit did bother me, and it did limit his range of motion slightly -- a big no-no in pet clothes.

This shot of him walking from the side really shows how much it's pulling around his front leg.

So, I decided to try a second shirt, this one out of a lightweight cotton knit. For this version, I also skipped the sleeves and cut the arm holes wider. I am happy to report a much better fit.

As you can see, I need to take in the neck a bit or add a small amount of elastic. But first I'll have to wrestle it off of Mr. Burns, who seems to be enjoying his new finery quite a bit!

Call me crazy but of all the detail work in knitting (most of which I detest) I love picking up stitches. It is a reason that I cannot narrow down but I like it, I enjoy it and I am pretty darn good at it. Picking up stitches is an acquired skill but it is based on the foundation of knitting; it is not like not like learning to knit itself. Learning to pick up stitches is similar to learning to drive in the rain. It is a lot to take in at first but since you already know how to drive you are just pushing your boundaries a little. Learning the nuances of picking up stitches will help you apply this skill to any gauge or any yarn fiber so you can pick up and knit with confidence. Picking up stitches is great for button bands, hem details, or simply adding details you didn't realize you needed originally. I used this instance when I knit my daughter's first hat. It was an undemanding ribbed brim hat that I thought would stay in place well on her (then) 9 mo. old head. And it did until she was 12 mo. old and decided hats weren't for her anymore. With the temperature outside falling, I picked up some stitches on the brim of the hat and added ear flaps with ties to keep the hat on her head. It worked great. You can add length to your socks after binding off, length to sleeves or a scarf or even add a ruffle trim to your favorite cardigan.

First with the WS of your project facing you, begin picking up your stitches by sliding one needle under 2 loops (if you only pick up 1 loop it will pull away from the knitting by accessing the slack from neighboring loops, by picking up 2 loops you anchor your picked up stitches so it won't put too much pressure on one stitch). When picking up stitches from a bound off edge I like to use the 'V' shape the bind off makes and slide my needle under both lines of the 'V'.

Slide your second needle into the same space as your first and make a loop with your yarn and slide it over your right needle and pull it through using your left needle to help the 'V' in place. Slide your left needle under the next 'V' moving to the left. Insert your right needle and wrap your yarn and pull through.

Above is a look from the WS. You can see the white purl bump against the yellow.

Above is a look from the RS. You can see the loops continue from the row above. From the RS, you can't see that the white row was picked up, it looks like a continuation.

Continue until you have enough stitches then turn your work and continue knitting. It is important that your pick up your stitches from the correct direction. Always pick up with the WS facing up (or facing you) because you will be picking up and knitting the first row with means the purl bump will be in the back. If the RS is facing you, then the purl bump with be on the RS and the picked up stitches will be obvious. 

**Disclaimer- These are my opinions and are by no means a judgment on Moms who choose disposable or any other diaper method. I have been known to employ disposables from time to time. **

I have LONG wanted in on this gig since I love cloth diapers so much. Not only do I love them for their Green value but also their comfort, style and convenience. The brand I choose for my first born were BumGenius One Size. I choose them because I need only buy one size which would grow with my baby. I could pack them up and go. When they were spoiled, I could fold them up and the mess would be contained inside. I could adjust their size as well as adjust their absorbency. The list goes on...

However, as colorful and super cute as they were, I still longed to make my own with prints that would match my daughter's personality, wardrobe or just something with a little funk. But I was intimidated. It just seemed so tricky. Plus I had no idea what materials were involved and where to purchase them all. Well, none of those reasons is much of an issue now. Fabric.com's Diaper Central is a one stop diaper fabric purchasing center and we offer several patterns to make your own diaper, I chose Favorite Things "The Nappies Pattern" and decided to modify them to be One Size just like my beloved BumGenius.

** Prewash your fabric as you would wash your cloth diapers**

First I choose my fabric: for the print outside, I used quilting cotton but you can also use minky, flannel or any decorative material (Note- It must be washable, these are going in the wash at least 1-2/week). Then I added in some PUL- which is the waterproof but breathable layer that gets sandwiched between the decorative outside and the super soft and comfy lining fabric. I went with plain white because I knew I would be using a decorative print on the outside but if you just want a solid color check out our wide PUL color selection. Then I chose my lining fabric which was a diaper flannel but you could also use cotton flannel, terry, cotton or hemp (Hemp is the most absorbent for heavy wetters). Do not use microfiber for the lining. It will irritate baby's skin. Then following the directions I cut out my pattern pieces.

Since I am making my diaper One Size, I choose a size large because it was the size closest to my BumGenius at its largest size. After finishing step 1 I added my rise adjustment snaps (these make the diaper One Size). I added one row of 3 male snaps 1 in. below where the Velcro would sit and 1 row of 3 female snaps 1.5 in. below the male row, and another row of female snaps 1 in. below the first female row. Each snap was spaced 2.25 in. in each row. With the middle snaps centered on the diaper, I used my Babyville Snap Pliers and Snaps in Playful Green/Orange. Then I continued following the directions to complete my diaper.

One important note is to be sure you use the 3/8'' swimwear elastic as instructed by the pattern. This will make your diaper function better but the size is just right to fit in the seam allowance. Also, when stitching on your elastic, I used some binder clips to keep my elastic in place about 2 in. above the pattern mark. I started sewing on the mark but clipping the elastic above the mark really helped me keep my hands free for guiding the fabric and stretching the elastic. Pull your elastic to about 90-95 of its capacity. This will make sure your get the stretch you need but won't make it super difficult to guide. After your elastic is sewn, clip off the excess elastic. A little waste makes for much ease. I also used these same clips to keep all my pieces together as I sewed them up instead of pin because I didn't want any holes in my waterproof PUL which might cause leaks later.

Finally you can see in my pictures the before elastic comparison to my BumGenius Diapers

 

 And after. Pretty close huh?!

Finally, I would love to show your this cute little diaper on a equally cute little bottom but we will all have to wait for the fall before that happens. Also, I don't know the gender yet but just loved this cowboy print so much that even if I have a girl she will be rocking western style. Have fun with your print choices!

I was window shopping over at my favorite store, Anthropologie, a few weeks ago and found this top and knew it was destined to be mine- But not for $58! A quick look at the close-ups confirmed that is was a very stylized version of a pillowcase top with a banded hem. Done, case closed, let's get to work. I, being 5 mo. pregnant, decided to craft my version from knit to make it last the summer. I tell you I feel really pretty and myself in this top (which is hard to accomplish, considering I just popped).Here's how to make your own. You can easily make this top from a woven or a knit.

1 yd of Knit fabric (you can use interlock or jersey just make sure it has at least 20% stretch across the grain)

Walking foot on your standard machine.

Measure and cut your fabric pieces according to my handy cheat sheet that you can download below (click on the picture to save and print).

Here's an example of the main panel measurement: widest measurement is 38 in. / 2= 19 in. + 1 in. (seam allowance)= 20 in. cutting width

Length from shoulder to hip bone is 22 in. + 4 in. = 26 in. cutting length

From the remaining fabric cut a 2 in. wide strip by at least 60 in. in length for the drawstring tie at the top.

All stitches are assumed zig zag stitches unless otherwise noted

 

Mark your main panels 6-8 in. from the top on each side; above the mark is your arm hole and below is your side seam. Stitch your sides together (RS facing) starting at these marks. Fold down seam allowance in your arm hole and topstitch in place.

To make the front keyhole, cut an 8 in. by 2 in wide piece of knit for the facing and pin it the front main panel of your top as shown on the cheat sheet, matching centers (RS facing). Using a narrow stitch, stitch close to your center line on one side, stopping ½ from the bottom of the facing, stitch across your center and stitch back up the other side of your center using the same spacing (try to stitch between 1/8 and ¼ in. from the center). Clip down your center line and turn your facing to the inside of your front main panel. Turn under the raw edges of the facing, pin in place and topstitch around the edges of your facing to secure in place using a straight stitch.

Make top ruffle and casing: on the front and back, fold the top of your top down 1/2 in. and pin or baste, fold down another 1.5 in and pin in place, topstitch along fold using straight stitch. Stitch another line 3/4 in. above the topstitching using a straight stitch.

Stitch your hem bands together at the sides and fold in half, matching raw edges, WS facing, and pin to the bottom edge of your top, stretching the hem band as needed to fit. Stitch around hem band.

To make the draw string, fold draw string in half lengthwise, RS facing and stitch down the length. Turn draw string right side out and feed through casing using a safety pin or bodkin starting at one side of the keyhole on the front of your top and finishing on the other side. Knit your drawstring at both ends.

Congrats you are DONE! Enjoy your Keyhole Pillowcase top in wovens as well as knits, just cut your hem band on the bias for a little stretch around your hips. I love this top in solids as well as medium or small scale prints. Polka Dots are a must for this style!

P.S. because this is knit it makes a great maternity top!

If you are familiar with Grommet Pliers then, please, put all your pessimistic plier preconceptions aside; Snap Pliers are nothing like Grommet Pliers. Compared to Grommet Pliers, Snap Pliers are a walk in the park on a breezy spring day while drinking an iced coffee, holding hands with your sweetheart. I was loath to try these but I have some cloth diapers that needed to be converted from Velcro to snaps and have some cloth diapers to make in the days ahead and knew this was a task I could no longer put off.

I should have purchased a set of Snap Pliers years ago. They are so easy and snaps are handy for so many projects. Before I start listing their uses like Bubba listing shrimp recipes (see Forrest Gump for movie reference) I will share how to use the Babyville Boutique Snap Plier Set ($19.98) which includes the Snap Pliers already pre-loaded with a size 20 die trays (this is where you place your snaps pieces and press them together to seal) which is the size of the snaps Fabric.com carries! Plus a screw driver to change the die plates, an awl to punch a hole for your snaps and a shank that fits the larger die tray. Complete instructions are also included.

I am converting some of my daughter's cloth diapers that she has used for the past 3 years. She only wears them while sleeping now but she thinks it is fun to pull off the Velcro. She still has trouble or, at least, has not attempted freedom from snap diapers (I have both in the pictures below. I am using the purchased snap diaper as a template for applying my snaps to the Velcro diaper). The Velcro is shot on most of my diapers and since I plan to use them for baby # 2, I figured now was a great time to get them all done. First, using my seam ripper I removed all the old Velcro. Next I measured and marked where I will place my new snaps. My Velcro diapers are slightly slimmer than my snap diapers so I can't copy the snap placement exactly but I can use the spacing.

After my placement is marked I use my awl to punch a hole for my first snap. Since I am punching through PUL, which is a knit, I need to punch and twist to make a larger hole than I really need because the hole will slowly close up once I remove the awl and I need to get the shank of my snap through the hole before it closes so I make it a little bigger than I need to allow time for my fumbling fingers.

Once your shank is in place, place one of your snap cups on the shank. It doesn't matter which just make sure you only use one kind in each location. I will use the other kind on the diaper tabs. Once my snap cup is in place, I hold the two pieces together with my fingers while I maneuver the pieces into the Snap Pliers placing the shank end in the bottom die cup and the top snap cup under the top die cup. 

Once the snaps pieces are in place, I squeeze the plier handles together with as much pressure as I can muster and then release and squeeze again for good measure. That's it. You do the same procedure for the other side of your snap but you really don't need to be super strong to squeeze the pliers with enough force and it is all really easy. I love how professional they look (I don't always get the best looking grommets) and can't wait to convert all my diapers to snaps and make some new ones as well!!

Check out our great selection of snaps in different, cute colors!

OK, this one's a super easy project -- perfect for budding seamsters. All you need is a t-shirt and about 30 minutes -- and you'll have time to spare!

To start with, pull your shirt -- inside out -- over your sewing machine. A unisex size Medium is just about perfect.


To make marking easier, you might want to pin the shoulders of your shirt so the neck opening sits higher than the top of the machine.


Next, mark the curve of your machine where you'll cut and sew the top of the cover. I used a sharpie so it's easy to see in photos.



Pull your shirt off your machine, and clip along your marked line. I usually taper my curve so it ends down at the bottom of the armscye.



Here's the trimmed top of the former shirt/almost cover.

Kim Kight has been writing the blog True Up since 2007. She is an avid sewist and loves fabrics and design. She is now an author, and her latest book is A Field Guide to Fabric Design. Here's our online interview:

Is sewing your passion? Or, is it more about the fabrics and the designs printed on them that inspire you?

I'd say it's both! I don't have as much time to sew as I'd like (who does?), but the more you sew, the more you understand and appreciate fabric. To some extent I guess I do collect fabric for its own sake, though, especially vintage feedsacks. It's hard to cut into those. My stash is my happy place, even if I'm not pulling something out to use it.

What is your favorite thing to make? (it doesn't have to involve sewing)

Quilts, definitely. I also love making stuffed toys. I want to love apparel sewing but I think I have more to learn before I feel the love!

Tell us about your blog, True Up. What inspired you to start a blog?

I used to have a personal/craft blog, and I ended up posting about new fabric collections on a regular basis. This was back (in the olden days -- five years ago?!?) when modern fabric collections were few and far between, and shops specializing in them were just starting to emerge. At some point I realized that I could start a blog that was JUST about fabric, and that maybe it would work as a professional, niche blog. Thankfully I was right!

Give us an idea of your creative or design style. What has inspired your creative sensibilities?

I like vintage everything! Now that I have kids of my own, I share all the books and cartoons I loved when I was little. I realized how much these things formed almost everything about my tastes. Just about everything I love creatively/visually can be traced back to Richard Scarry, Ed Emberley, Go Dog Go, and Looney Tunes.

We are so excited about your new book, A Field Guide To Fabric Design! Give us a flavor of the book and tell us who you wrote it for.

Thank you! Everything I know about fabric printing was self-taught. There just weren't any comprehensive books out there that show how to print repeating designs onto fabric. I wrote the book that I was wanting 5-10 years ago when I became interested in designing fabric. I wrote it for the person who loves fabric, who dreams of having their own designs on fabric. It's geared heavily toward people interested in designing fabric as a career (or as part of a larger design career). But it has a lot of inspiration and information for people who just want to print for fun, and even for those who just want to be more informed in their choices of prints and fabrics. Since it shows how to create pattern repeats by hand and with Adobe Photoshop and Illustrator, it's also useful for anyone who wants to design patterns for any reason (graphic design, scrapbooking, etc.)

Add anything else you think fabric.com fans would like to know about you, sewing, the creative process your book, your blog, etc. that I missed.

I launched a Fabric Design Forum as a companion to the book ... I knew I couldn't show every technique in the world, and I knew things like the computer tutorials had a limited shelf life, so I wanted a place where people could go and talk fabric design with like-minded folk, and keep up on new technological developments. It's free, and you don't have to have the book to join, and I'd love to see you all there! It's at http://www.trueup.net/forum.

 

Memories are fleeting. You wish you could reach out and grab one. One year I was looking to add another Christmas present for my daughter, I had already purchased her ''big'' presents, but I just needed something more. I stumbled across ''the memory jar''. I thought she would think it was hokey but she was very touched by it.

 What is the memory jar?  You think about the memories and good times you would like to remember.  I picked memories from her childhood and wrote them on slips of paper and put them in a decorated jar.  I added mementoes of her childhood. It was a very satisfying experience for me to make.

I decided it was time for another memory jar. This time the theme will be Motherhood.  My daughter is expecting her second child at the end of August.  This is also a great project to make with your child or grandchild.

Ingredients:

Mason glass jar

Labels

Stickers

Mother's Day coupons

Photographs

Selected memories written or printed on cardstock ( I am using blue cardstock because she is having a boy and the white cardstock is Sebastian's coupons)

When my daughter reaches into this jar she will pull out a memory of my memories as a young mother or some of her experiences with her first pregnancy. I am also throwing in some sonograms from her current pregnancy. I am calling this jar the "Just Because I Said So" jar. When my daughter was young I pledged that I would always explain my rules to her. Little did I know that I had given birth to a lawyer.  She countered all my arguments with her own thoughts. By the time she reached the age of ten, I retreated to the phrase I thought I would never say- Because I said so!

I am including some Mother's Day coupons that I will help my grandchild (Sebastian) fill out.

 

Use your imagination to create your own memory jar or create a different style. I found a sewing kit at Martha Stewart.com. She also has some other great Mother's Day gifts.

Sewing Kit Jar Supplies:

Mason Jar

Labels

Fabric Scraps and poly-fil (to make pincushion)

Tape Measure

Safety pins

Hand Needles

Thread

Pins

Buttons

Hot glue and glue gun

 

 

Tips:

Printing Labels- Always print your label on plain paper and align with the labels to  make sure that the printing will be centered on your label. You may have to adjust your printer settings. I found out that I needed to click on borderless printing to ensure good printing.

If you make the sewing kit jar- only apply the glue to the seal and not the rim to attach your pincushion.

If a child is helping you, let him/her select stickers to put on the job.

 

Resources:

Hobby Lobby

Staples

 

Inspirations:

Martha Stewart.com

Better Homes & Gardens

Woman's Day

Avery.com